Lately the truck doesnt star in the morning, I have to charge the batteries and boost them to start, and after that no problem.
I think the batteries are going south, they are a Duralast Gold, 7 years old.
Any advice to do the interchange, any tip, trick, or something? Or easy like 1-2-3?. Nothing electronic changes or something to reset?


Thanks in advance for the inputs.

 

If you don't want to reset Radios and that stuff, change one, then the other. Other than that is a piece of cake. Make sure to clean the inside of your clamps so that you get a fresh clean connection.

 

is it turning over slow? mine was turning over really slow and i had brand new batteries. i cleaned the connection between the started and the hot cable and low and behold, starts like a champ. the only issue i have now, and was starting to have before was that it cranks longer, like it is not getting fuel right away. any suggestions?

 

Do as bkcowboss said, and it's just 1,2,3. Remember that when doing only one battery at a time, the positive cable is still hot. DO NOT LET IT TOUCH ANY METAL!!!!!

Coat the battery post and cable end clamps (inside & outside) with dielectric silicone (best) or grease before putting the cables on the battery. This will stop the corrsion.

As you pull each battery, check the battery tray, and if needed wash with water and baking soda (it neutralizes the battery acid). If you have rusted battery trays (and you have the time) spray them with several coats of rubberized body undercoating (it comes in a spray can). This will keep the battery acid from eating away the metal.

Get the battery with the most cranking amps that you can, and the largest in size that will fit. This will make sure that your batteries last as long as possible.

 

I got ahead of myself. 96powerstroke is correct. Test and clean all connections. Have the batteries load tested seperately (disconnect one battery and have them test it, reconnect that one, then diconnect the other one and have it tested.)
If you cannot have them load tested, then do a specific gravity test on each cell (they sell a tester, looks like an eye dropper with four ***** in it, at most auto parts stores). As 96 powerstroke said make sure it is your batteries before you replace them. Good Luck.

 

!! I knew, I knew, !!!, I hesitate to ask, but luckyly I did. Thank to all of you
And I forgot to ask, what to do with the stock "covers" (like a boxes without the cap)?, they dont look very "healthy" (cracked, folded, etc), just throw them away?

 

Roentgeep, allways remember to change both battaries. (if needed to change) then just like has been stated. Good luck.

 

96powerstroke: it is not turning over slow, but anyway Im going to check and clean the connection between the started and the hot cable, also Im going to have the batteries load tested seperately and/or do a specific gravity test on each cell (I have a couple of those testers), and also like utahcrew pointed out I will change both batteries. (if needed to change) and will get the battery with the most cranking amps, and the largest in size that will fit. (here there are in Autozone, only Duralast, no Duralast Gold )

Any chime about the stock covers?
and what 96powerstroke ask: .....the only issue i have now, and was starting to have before was that it cranks longer, like it is not getting fuel right away. any suggestions?.....

 

Re looking at the quoted post I think you may have a Glow Plug Relay problem, you need to whip out the test light and check that you are getting voltage on the passenger side large post on your GPR when the wait to start light is on. if the test light is weak or non existant you need to replace it. That would cause the crank longer not getting fuel symptom

 

If you do not have a test light or Voltage meter, you can touch a screwdriver to both posts simultaneously for 20-30 seconds then crank the truck, if it fires right up, that is your problem

 

Weak batteries will cause it to crank longer. It has to build up the high pressure oil (450-500psi I think) before the PCM will fire the injectors. Weak batteries mean that the engine is turning over slower and not building up the pressure as fast. Trash the covers. And it probably is your batteries since they are seven years old, but test them anyway to be on the safe side.

 

Okey dokey, Im planning to do everything tomorrow, so we will be in touch.


Thans A LOT to everybody.

 

my issue with the long start is not batteries, glow plugs or the relays, everything is new within the past 3 months. maybe im just being too picky, it startas fine it just seems long. my fuel pump has a slow leak that i know of(a tiny bit of fuel in the valley) could that be my issue, loos of pressure in the fuel line? any suggestions would be appreciated.
thanks for everything,
Riley

 

That could have something to do with it. The small leak could be letting pressure bleed off of the high side of the fuel system, and it's taking longer to repressurize.

It could also be that you starter is slowing down some. As they get older they do slow down, taking alittle longer to crank. But unless it is excessively long cranking I would not worry about it.

 

thats what i thought, i think im just being too picky. it jsut seems to take a second or two longer than it used, and i think the fuel leak has something to do with it. i just dont have the time right this moment to change out the fuel pump and everything else around it. i figure if im going through the the trouble i might as well replace all the rubber lines are everything else of that nature while im in there. thanks for the input.
Riley