so you'd rather spend that time putting in a body lift that, in the end, looks.... well we'll say *chevy*

put your time into a more functional and better prepared suspension.

for some reason there are die hard body lift guys out there willing to argue till the cows come home!

-cutts-

 

I wasnt a big fan of them untill I had a truck with a 3" body lift. When the fuel pump died all I had to do was sping the lock ring out and lift it right out. Didnt have to drop the tank or lift the box. It was sure nice. Truck had some trouble with the service line for the hydraulic clutch and the extra clearance made life easier there too.

 

I like my trucks with the stock body mounts/bushings. Suspension lifts are more functional, better looking, and undeniably safer.

 

Ouch. That hit a little close to home. I have a shortbox chevy with a body lift in my driveway.


Suspension lifts are better, and assuming it isn't some POS setup it is safer too.
However if you only have $150 after rent and bills and you want to get those bigger used tires under your truck and get out there wheeling maybe a body lift is exactly what you need. As for time, it only takes a few hours to put it a body lift as long as the old bolts let go.

That extra clearance is real nice for getting at the upper bellhousing bolts on my 327 powered GMC, real nice indeed.

 

too funny

if you only have $150 after all is said and done then wheelin is not for you, at least at the present time! i know a LOT better things to spend $150 on when money is that tight... been there, done that. i've seen 33's with the right driver go wayyy farther than a set of 38's with someone who only knows 2 gas pedal positions

this can/will be argued till the end of time!

-cutts-

 

I run a 3" body lift in that chev to clear 33's. I didn't like the rash my fenders created on my tires.
I bought that truck, lifted it (body), bought tires and bought enough spray paint to purty it up a little for less than a 4" skyjacker system.

I also have a bronco (which is why you find a body lift liking chev owner here) that I am taking a different route with. It also has 33's but I trimmed a few inches out of the sheet metal instead of lifting it. I wasn't entirely pleased with that choice when I discovered that the fuel pump was toast. The tank ended up having a hole in it so it had to come out anyway, but I was cursing for a few minutes there.

 

You could buy a real nice sawzall with blades for $150 !!!!!!!!!!!!!






That'll make all kinds of room for larger tires.

 

couldn't agree any more.

 

how different is a hockey puck from the bushing that is used in most body lifts? they are both rubber/poly right? i have a suspension lift, but i was just curious at how similar the two actually are, the puck and the legit body lift bushing

 

My body lift spacer is actually a solid piece of,.. I don't know what it is is, it's some sort of fibreglass/plastic material, I dunno. I think that all retail spacers are the same in that they are all solid and not rubber like. A soft spacer would allow too much side loading on the bolt.
One puck, big deal, two pucks and you start getting a lot of room for shearing forces, add in squishy rubber and the bolt loses more clamping force in exchange for side load.

As for wheeling on $150.
It depends on what level you want to play the game. If all you want to do is run the logging roads and look for simple trails to look out points to take your girlfriend/wife(both if you're lucky) for a weekend picnic and have $150 left after she got that lame hair cut that makes her look like Rosie, maybe you should look for a body lift.
If you want to get your rig to that place that no one has ever EVER been able to get to, call your banker and your divorce lawyer, you'll be needing both of them.

 

Hockey pucks will degrade and split and generally turn to **** in short order...
The bed on my diesel has had some serious vibration damagge, that the previous owner repaired, unfortunatley, he screwed up the sills at the back, and the pass side of the bed sat about 2" too low at the rear pass corner... The bed is no hell anyway, and was on the truck before I noticed this... I put in a pair of brand spanking new pucks on that corner, stuck in a grade 8 bolt, tightened the heck out of it, and forgot about it, 6 months down the road, both pucks were split, cracked, and ready to come apart... I just said screw it, yanked them in, got a shorted bolt, and just dealt with the corner sitting too low.... Another 6 months down the road, everything he stuck together came apart, and the bedside it basicly held straight by the tailgate.... Turns out he just brazed it back together, didn't weld it after all...

Anyhow, with that kind of results on just one corner, there's no way in hell I'd be caught dead using even a single puck for a body lift spacer.
Now, I will go on to say that I do have a 2" BL on my diesel, and am dang glad I have it, it makes room for the turbo and downpipe...

 

That is the only time (IMO) that a body lift is appropriate. When it is absolutely necessary in order to clear drivetrain components and fabrication of new mounts or part relocation is not an option due to fabrication challenges or other various reasons. But for me, thats not a problem, so I'll never need a bodylift.

 

my body lift solved the fuel hose pinch problem on the old trucks and allows me to keep road salt off the frame way easier. plus i can tuck my exhaust up higher now so i wont bang it up on the trails.
would be easier if the trans crossmember wasnt there but cant do anything about that.

other then that i plan on getting a 6" susp lift and run some 40's so i dont have to cut anything now. do what you want. some guys like Bud some like Miller Lite its your trucka nd your choice. just keep it safe

 

If you want a truly solid body lift, go with barbel(sp) weights. Thats what the owner of a truck I reposessed did, they were stacked too.

 

how did that work? arent they kinda oddly shaped to do that? did he cut them up or something?