You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!
You guys have an excellent sight going here, glad I found it. My idiot light came on about three months ago and my truck was feeling sluggish and hesitated with moderate throttle. It has gotten worse and now while accelerating over medium throttle I sometimes get what sounds like engine ping, and it spits and sputters eraticly. The truck starts with no problems and idles great. I have replaced plugs and wires, oil and filter change with synthetic oil, cleaned maf, new air filter. I scanned the obdII and came up with these codes. I changed the fuel filter and reset the pcm yesterday, but havent had a chance to drive it to see what if any changes it might make. Any info or help would be greatly appreciated.
2000 Ford F150
4.2 liter V-6
DTC (codes) P0340- camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction
sensor A - bank 1
P0443- EVAP emission control system
purge valve C fault
P1451- electricle circuit fault
EVAP control system canister vent selenoid circuit malfunction
Also fuse# 23 in the power distribution box keeps blowing right after I install it. I have searched all through my wiring and havent found any chaffed or exposed wiring. My owners manual states that fuse# 23 is power for the HEGO sensor, canister vent, automatic transmission, and CMS sensor. I havent been able to find what a HEGO sensor or a CMS sensor is in my Haynes manual. Any ideas as to what could be making these fuses blow? Also is there a place where I can get a more in-depth repair Manual Than a Haynes. Thanks, Brian.
You have a short circuit to ground on the load side for F23. This circuit feeds all of the following: Canister Vent Solenoid, EVR solenoid, EVAP CP valve, HEGO heaters (all 4), CMP Sensor, WOT relay, and IMRC. Since you have an manual, there is no connection to it from this circuit.
The most common failure is due to an O2 sensor harness either falling onto an exhaust component and melting or a sensor harness that is rubbing on a driveshaft or other moving steering or suspension component.
The Haynes is better than nothing (but not by much). If you need the factory schematic, post your email address (make it spam-bot resistant) and I will send you a pdf copy of the diagram.
Thanx alot steve, you just saved me alot of time and energy looking in the wrong direction. I bought new o2 sensors last night and will install them today. over 188,000 miles probably needed changed anyway. My E-mail address is firstname.lastname@example.org, and I would really appreciate the schematic.
Well I have the exact same problem with my 99 F150 w/ 4.3. It's blowing the #23 fuse and throwing all sorts of codes. When it first happened I replaced the #23 fuse, reset the CEL and all was good.....for about 2 days. then it blew the fuse again and now it blows a new fuse as soon as I try to pull off in it.
I've looked at most of the visible wiring harness and I cannot find any visible chafing or damage, but I suspect I need to get under the truck and look at some of the O2's.
This problem seems common enough that I would suspect a common area for this issue to occur. I wish guys would come back on here after they fix their issue and share where they discovered the issue. I promise that if/when I find the issue I will report back in hopes of helping others.
Well I've underneath the vehicle all around the tranny with no luck. I thought I had stumbled on the problem I came across a connector on the rear passenger side of the tranny that plugs in vertically. When I disconnected it, it was full of fluid. Feeling certain that was causing my short I cleaned it out real good and used di-electric grease at the connection......NOPE.
I have disconnected that plug, both rear O2's and even the fuel pump and it still blows the fuse as soon as you turn the key even before you try to start it. What ever is shorted is shorted good, because it blows the fuse hot....not just a small burn, but a good hot sizzle across most of the fuse element.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.