1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

To Trim or not to trim, that is the question...

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Old 03-07-2007, 08:21 PM
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To Trim or not to trim, that is the question...

Ok so I have looked all over at 67-72 trucks and I have some questions about the side trim. My 70 has the wide trim in the middle down the sides and then the trim at the bottom and in the wheel well.

What is the difference between my truck, trucks that have the thin middle trim and nothing at the bottom, and then the trucks that have neither.

Secondly, what would I need to do to take a fender that doesn't have trim holes and drill it to get my trim to fit? Should I even do this? I think the trucks look better without the trim on it, but wouldn't this be against FTE religion to take my trim off and bondo over the holes?

Your explanations and opinion as valued as always.
 
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Old 03-07-2007, 08:44 PM
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The difference between the trucks are the trip packages, camper special and xlt had wide moldings, sport custom and custom I think had the thin. To put wheel well moldings and a truck not equipped is the mark and drill about 5 holes. But if you hate the molding take it off, my next truck wont have any moldings on the side, its better than driving a Chevy.
 
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Old 03-07-2007, 11:14 PM
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I like the single strip of upper trim. I don't like the 3inch trim but the thinner trim with 2 tonne pait, oh yes that's what I want. White on the bottom half then either black, red, white, green, blue.
 
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Old 03-08-2007, 05:18 AM
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I think they look much better without the trim and a solid color, but if you go without weld the holes shut and then use body filler to smooth them.
 
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Old 03-08-2007, 05:32 AM
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Personally I've always liked the mouldings...it's a 60's / 70's thing. These trucks in the right paint colors really stand out with all the flashy trim. The reverse paint scheme is unique, as Ford only offered the darker colors in the center body with lighter roofs and lower body on the 67/72's.


There are several full color books available today on Ford Trucks. I suggest you look at one/all before doing anything to your truck. The books will give you ideas on what to do.
 
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Old 03-08-2007, 07:56 AM
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Ok so let me get this straight. XLT and Camper - Thick wide trim. Custom - Thin trim. What about the bottom mouldings? Were they the same? The one reason I am thinking of removing it is because of the cost. A set of bedside moulding is about 600 bucks. Crazy.
 
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Old 03-08-2007, 08:42 AM
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I like the trimless smooth look, "shaved" trim and door handles was some of the first exploits into customizing that a lot of us took when we started. Just a note of caution, though. When you get the trim holes all welded up and smoothed out, you're going to start thinking of other little mods to do.....It becomes one of those never ending things.

Oh yeah, if you weld the holes shut, use a piece of brass as a backer on the hole, then either mig or tig the whole shut. The brass makes the hole filling process a lot easier.....
 
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Old 03-08-2007, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Oh yeah, if you weld the holes shut, use a piece of brass as a backer on the hole, then either mig or tig the whole shut. The brass makes the hole filling process a lot easier.....
Wouldn't the dissimilar metals (brass on steel) cause galvanic corrosion at the weld point?
 
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Old 03-08-2007, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by MaxKlinger
Wouldn't the dissimilar metals (brass on steel) cause galvanic corrosion at the weld point?
I'm sure it does to a very minor amount. I go over all my welded areas with a corrosion inhibitor. Been doing it this way for many years, haven't seen one rust out at a patched hole yet... But your concern is certainly valid. Not being a metallurgist, I just use what works. This little trick was taught to me by an old body guy about 40 years ago, back when the holes were still welded shut with an oxy-acetelene torch....

Anyway, I treat all repaired areas with a product called "Phix", worked into the area with a purple scuff pad, then an etch primer followed by an epoxy primer... Maybe something in there kills the corrosion???? Heck, even moisture and oils from touching the metal with your hands can cause corrosion.... Proper preparation to the metal BEFORE applying paint is the key to controlling the corrosion....
 
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Old 03-08-2007, 09:29 AM
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I pondered the same exact question.
$600 for new trim or $600 for aloy/chrome rims?????? The wood grain on my trim is all faded and there are lots on dings in it.

My solution came to me real easy. I found(and bought) a truck in better shape without the trim on it. I am going to daily drive the XLT and restore the non-trim one. $600 I don't have will be better used somewhere else.

but it is a tough question and all comes down to personal preferance. I also am not a huge fan of chrome. Also for some reason rust always starts under trim whether its chrome or plastic and whether its bolted/cliped on or stuck on with tape.
 
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Old 03-08-2007, 11:10 AM
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I can't decide what to do. How hard would it be to take a fender that doesn't have trim and drill it so my trim fits??
 
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Old 03-08-2007, 11:31 AM
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My 71 F250 Ranger XLT Camper Special had the wide chrome in the middle and narrower chrome on the bottom (that did not go past the rear wheel). I like the look of the narrow chrome in the middle but would like the wider chrome on the bottom. I priced all the chrome on my truck including the grill and tailgate insert it is around $2000.00. I am filling all the holes except the back of cab molding hood molding and wheel well molding. I am going to paint a solid more modern color (gunmetal dark shadow gray metallic) and then re-drill and add chrome as budget allows (if I still want it). I will probably end up with a Ranger XLT that looks like a Ranger Custom Cab. I am having a hard time deciding what to do with the rain gutters. I like the look of the chrome on the gutters but I can’t seem to find any new chrome for that area. Mine is probably in good enough shape to put back on but it seems to have been pressed on somehow. I am not sure it would go back on. Do any of you have experience with that? Or know where to buy it new?


Chad
 
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Old 03-08-2007, 11:40 AM
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my trim(thin strip) is in pretty good shape for being 71 not realy any dings just faded/polishing needed.when i repaint it again ill put on new trim so everything looks new.nothing looks tackyer than fresh paint and old trim.i know it cost a bunch to replace it but realy dont these ol'trucks look classy in origanal trim?i think that the peice on the front of the hood needs to be there it fills the gap nicly.
 
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Old 03-08-2007, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jwcorder
I can't decide what to do. How hard would it be to take a fender that doesn't have trim and drill it so my trim fits??
Not too bad, just some careful measuring.. Just measure the old fender from the top edge to where the hole goes, then transfer this measurement to the new fender. Measure from the back edge to each hole, transfer this measurement to the new fender. Where all the little marks intersect is where the holes go.

If you don't have an old fender to go by, then with the fender installed, draw a straight horizontal line off each edge of the door trim along the fender. This can be done with a long straight edge of some kind. Then measure where the clips will be on the trim, transfer these measurements to the center of your two lines, drill the holes.

As with anything else, measure twice, then measure again, stand back and eyeball your marks, then drill.... Check, check, and recheck!!!!
 
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Old 03-08-2007, 07:31 PM
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sounds like a lot of work, does anyone know if the import fenders from Dennis come with the holes or without?
 


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