I finally got my 351W running! I have a new 351W (rebuilt) and right now it has the break-in oil in it. I was test driving it and temp was fine, didn't go up or down at all...then within three minutes it skyrocketed and and the engine stalled out. It did not make any kind of loud metal on metal noise or any kind of sudden halting stop. It just kind of puttered out.

I open the hood and the feederhose to the heating core had "blown off" (bad clamp or something) and there was radiator fluid shooting everywhere. There was what appeared to be radiator fluid boiling on top of the manifold (in the parts where there were bowls).

I let the truck sit for about 8 hours (while I walked to work) and came back with new hoses and clamps and radiator fluid and oil. After replacing the hoses and clamps and adding oil I tried to start it and it turned over but sounds VERY labored. It does sound normal (as far as pistons are rotating fine and such) but it sounds very sluggish. Well I couldn't do anything in the dark (at 2:30am) so I went back today.

I found the liquid on top of the manifold to be oil (but not black or anything, actually quite clear and new looking) although I see no oil leaking from any part of the engine. I took off the valve covers and there is nothing visibly wrong there either. All the rocker arms flow normally and in order.

I was having some battery charging issues and am hoping this is the real issue at hand, but I am very worried I might have damaged my brand new engine! Is there a way oil can make it into the radiator fluid? If so what does this mean? What should I do! I have $1500 invested in this and no car with three jobs! Oh my it's so discouraging!

 

If it sounds very labored, do a compression check and make sure you didn't blow a head gasket.

 

You could have all kinds of stuff mixed together pooling on top of your engine.

Suck some radiator fluid out of the radiator with a turkey baster (big syringe thing you put gravey on meat with in an oven). Squirt out what you get in a glass container, like a drinking glass. If you have brown (oil) dropletts floating in green liquid (antefreeze) you have likely blown a headgasket, my friend.

There are other ways that this can happen too, none of which I care to dwell on in your current state of mind having this happen to a new motor after a long night, as they involve stuff like head & block damage.

Good luck, what a bummer, stay cool - you'll get it fixed!

Rob

1996 Ford Bronco, 5.8L:
-Done:Hypertech III,Powerstat, K&N FIPK,cooler TBody bypass,Mac equal length headers, Gibson cat-back, Taylor wires, Urethane bushings, BF Goodrich TA's, Roadmaster active suspension, Nozzle lights, Euro taillights
-ToDo: MSD Coil, Hypertech cap & rotor, Edelbrock performer intake manifold & 56 Tbody, Granetelli MAF

 

Ok thanks for the responses....my first attempt is to fully charge the battery since I was having problems with that initially. If that doesn't work, I am having it towed home and I will begine by pulling off the mainfold and the heads. (After I check the radiator fluid like you suggested).

I am bout ready to give it up and scrap the whole thing part out everything and let it go. I am that frustrated. I have been working on this new engine for over a year. But I actually went car shopping yesterday (and it wasn't for a ford).

I will try though to get something going....its just so damn hot out! (Texas after all).

 

I pulled off the intake manifold and it was bone dry. The gaskets were in perfect shape. I also checked completely around the heads although I need to really remove them to check for compression I know. Is there a tool I can use to do this faily easily? If I am willing to just pull the heads I should be able to see if I blew something right away right?

Would the engine run sluggish if the pistons are full of radiator fluid? Or if the rings are shot? Well too many questions....I will check the gaskets first.

 

Use a compression gauge that screws into the spark plug holes. No need to remove the heads. If you find a screwed up cylinder, then you will have to go from there.

I imagine it wouldn't run at all if there was fluid in the cylinders. Funny thing about water is that it cannot be compressed. The piston rods would bend if a cylinder was full of water.

Are you sure the oil you found wasn't just a spill from when you filled it?

 

Positive...I am pretty sure it came from the radiator hose...but I can tell you the engine does turn over...labored but it turns over...when I pump the gas it slows down even more though....and I know it is not from flooding....trying to describe this as best as I can....thanks for the help...

 

Here's a random thought... (Someone correct me if I'm way off on this.)

When the hose came off, the water pump pushed out all the water. What would then happen to the water pump when it continues to spin without fluid? It it possible that the water pump is damaged, and that (via the belt) is what is causing sluggishness. I imagine that if the water pump were locked up that it would cause a considerable strain as the engine pulls the belt around the still pulley.

???

 

That is a good point as well....the water pump is brand new....and it is a cat power racing pump...I don't know if it could be damaged, but something tells me this isn't the problem. The hose was still spewing fluid and steam when I opened the hood (with the engine off). Perhaps this is the problem....and I will check it THANKS!

 

Pulled the heads off today and the gaskets and everything seemed perfect. They weren't charred, bent, cracked or anything...actually they still looked new! There was, however, a small amount of radiator fluid in the 8th cylinder (about two tablespoons). I am stumped how it got there, the heads are in perfect shape and the gaskets all look good. I figured I might as well change the oil since it did overheat.

I dropped the oil plug and WOW about the first half of the oil was actually bright green radiator fluid....then the next half was oil. So I am assuming I found the problem. There is radiator fluid getting into the block somehow, but how? After draining the oil and with the heads off, I turned over the engine a couple of times just to see if it sounded good, and it sounded like normal (when I first got thengine started). So that is good news. No apparent damage to the cylinders or pistons.

Anyway, the engine place is supposed to call me back...and I still need to pull off the left side head (if the gasket is blown on one side is it possible for radiator fluid to make it over the other head?)

You guys have been great and I appreciate all the help!

 

 

my guess is you have a cracked head.

probably not what you want to hear but it sounds like it

 

I pretty sure what the problem is. I have experienced this before. You have a blown head gasket. that is th eonly way for radiator fluid to get in the engine!!

 

>I pretty sure what the problem is. I have experienced this
>before. You have a blown head gasket. that is th eonly way
>for radiator fluid to get in the engine!!



um no it is not.

he could have a cracked head or block casting.

 

Well finally got the left head off today...no cracks....but the gasket was missing a piece. Well it looked "eaten away". The 2nd, 3rd and 4th cylinders were full of radiator fluid. The heads are going back to the shop to check for internal cracks, and checked for warping (free of charge) and they will regrind them if they need to to make them flat.

So now my question is:

If it is simply a blown head gasket and there are no cracks what are the best steps to take before I put it all back together and prepare the engine for restarting? Do I need to run engine cleaner before I put new oil in?

Thanks!