Have a 60' f100 4x4 w/ 53k and 292 engine o/h once already (rivited tag on frt. of block) and if I brake hard or lug it down below idle by accident, oil war. light comes on. I have had pan off and ck p.u. screen, baffel still in place in pan, oil is to full on stick, using 20-50w oil, oil press. switch new, and put filter conversion on for spin on. When stoping I have to believe it starving for oil. Light flashing on if drop below idle I understand.

 

Hi oil switch i have got a new one and it had a lazy spring , i just put a gauge it now i can see what going on , if the oil pump is bad its very cheap and easy to change as its mounted out side of your 292 drive side in usa or right side in australia hope this help get back to me

 

Thanks! That was my next move. If you have time ck my new post on "engine oil warning-must read". Its an interesting e-mail my father sent me on oil manufacturing.

 

B6AZ-9278-B Sender, Oil Gauge .. Stamped #6 1/4"-18 pipe thread (Motorcraft SW-667) [use with oil light]

These blankety-blank switches fit many years, and have a habit of leaking oil past the threads. When that occures, the oil gauge light will come on.

It may take more than one new switch to solve the problem, as some of the switches made today are from...China.

 

It didn't start ticking like it was out of oil did it?

 

No. No noise heard. Drove it just today and for first time saw light flicker sitting at idle hot. I am running a hot 195 t-stat but it 50ish today. Think I'll start w/ oil press. guage, then maybe new pump. That would also help determine if the new ops was bad.

 

One other thing to check. If you have a bare wire that can move and ground out during hard braking, your light will come on.

 

i have put my gauge in and have never looked back i don,t miss replaceing sender ,s all the time ( light use to flicker under brake to ) and my oil pressure sit on 40 all the time ( warm up and on the road ) and under braking just do it

 

Thanks. My next step will be a guage.

 

hi guys, been following this thread , i replaced my oil pump, old was leaking, installed oil gauge now at idel oil light comes on and pressure drops to 20 . on the road 40. this just started about a month after installing new pump. 292 engine w/ 3 spd. trans. should i pull pump to check for any restrictions. any advise would be appriciated, mike

 

It'll be a little dirty work again, but you could reinstall old pump (if you still have it) and run it as a test to see where press. is and if light comes on. I wouldn't rule out the new pump being less then correct. Could be just timing and maybe something just happened to restrict the system prior to sensor or worse yet something (bearings) took a dump, but we won't even go there. When you added the guage pick up did you put a "t" at the old sensor port? could the "t" be the cause since both readings are low? Now that I think about it I have a "t" there myself and may be effecting my rig. I priced out pumps and I found a big difference in costs, like $100.00 diff. and I sure hope there is some good reason for the charge. Good luck and if you find your answer it would be great if you posted an update.

 

i bought my pump from n.p.d., old pump was leaking pretty good maybe i will try putting in new o-ring in old pump and re-install, no work this weekend, easter, but i will keep you posted on what i find. thanks for quick reply. mike

 

The 292 rear sump "bathtub" truck oil pans are famous for the oil sloshing forward away from the pick up in the shallow sump during braking or steep downhill grades. I find that if I keep 6 quarts of oil in the system the problem is much reduced. These engines are designed for 6 quarts with filters anyway. My motor burns about a quart of oil every 2,000 miles, so I find that I have to keep an eye on it. The pump has very little to do with it.

The other post about low oil pressure could be caused by a faulty pump. I have seen excessive clearance in these pumps when new. The newer georotor style pumps with the cast aluminum body generally give better pressure at low speeds. The old style gear pumps are fine, but exacerbate the oil pressure drop phenomenon. If you have at least 15psi at idle and 45 over the road the engine will be fine.

 

o.k. here is the latest, pulled oil pump found a little silicone that was used to seal pump against block was part blocking hole on pump. cleaned out pump real good and reinstalled . now have 20 to 30 pressure at idle and 40 to 50 at 2ooo rpms. now after truck warms up the oil light goes on and stays on. pressure gague is hooked directly to block on drivers side, looked over block everywhere and can't find sending unit for light. po installed oil gague. i assume gague is more reliable than light but would still be more comfortable if i knew what was going on. also took suggestion and add extra oil. now have about 5 1/2 qts. in engine. thanks, mike

 

my 292 oil sending switch is at the rear drivers side of the motor, next to steering box' and in frt. and above clutch slave cyl. area. I believe this is the factory placement. My wire lead to the switch is orig./unmolested looking and correct length for the location. If I'm correct the switch just provides the dash war. light a ground supply. if you have a pinched/shorted or loose wire getting a gound you've got a war. light yelling at you. why your still seeing the light once warmed up is a mistery to me too. I'm sure there is another or maybe several other ports in the block as to which your press. switch for light may be installed, and the switch must be faulty if you seeing 20 psi on the guage when light is on.