I am new here on this forum so if I step on someones tale let me know. I recently bought a 2011 Ranger 4.0 L, 4x4, auto(D) truck to replace the 2002 Ranger I've had forever. The 02 was a good truck and only replaced it cause it has a lot of miles and I drive a lot of long distances where I need to trust what I'm driving. I like the new truck except for the shifting. In normal driving it shifts OK but I live where there are lots of hills. I come to a hill and the truck starts to slow down so I press down on the throttle. Nothing happens until I have the throttle almost to the floor when it drops at least two gears and the engines screams. My old truck was somewhat this way but I could modulate the throttle just right and get it to drop one gear and keep up the speed. The new truck either screams or luggs, nothing in between. Is this normal? Is there programming that can some how be manipulated? The truck is under Ford warrenty for a while yet but I wanted to see what other people think. Thanks in advance for your help.

 

Help Got a 97 Ranger V-6 4x4 4.0L. had no reverse when I got it plus flashing OD light. Replace valve body and solenoids with shift kit installed bought fr Q transmission in Tampa Fl. Installed changed out 7 qt fluid and filter. Now I have forward in all gears including Reverse. Did I get lemon parts or do I need to be trained? Any help or input welcome. Oh you can't hurt my feelings either Thanks

 

Most of the time when someone installs a valve body and they are not familiar with transmissions they will miss the manual valve. When this happens all they will end up with is one gear in all ranges, because the manual valve is not being moved by the manual linkage.

The pin on the linkage should be in the groove in the valve.

 

Great post & tip, for we aspiring wrench turners!!!!

 

Will drain and check this tomorrow. Sure I DID NOT engage the pin. Thanks I'm excited again. Will post after check out

 

97 ford Ranger V-6 4.0L 4x4 5R55E Removed valve body and inserted manual valve linkage gears now shift as should. Thanks for the fix. Now I'm back to my original problem no reverse. Fluids topped off, replaced valve body and 6 solenoids. Sometimes get flashing OD light when trying to select R turn off remove key restart clears this problem. Where do I need to go next? Test drive I can feel 4 shifts when going down road, not sure OD down shifts, when trying the 1 gear coast braking. Coast free no slow down. Thanks again jk080 for the picture and help. Thanks to pawpaw also for input. You both hit the manual valve linkage right off the bat.

 

Thanks for the PIC Reps Given

 

Hi all, not very new to the site, but new to the truck I am having transmission problems with. It is a 2004 ford ranger 3.0, auto, 2wd, extended cab w/ 83k miles. I bought the truck with a bad motor so I couldn't drive it before I bought it but I got a good deal so I figured it was worth the risk. Any way the problem I am experiencing is shift delay from "R" and "D". More so into "R" then "D". Also it seems like the trans is slipping and acts like it has a high stall around 1k-1500 rpm. It seems to shift in all gears when driving, it just seems like the rpms are higher than they should be when driving (2k +/-) I have a dipstick, so I believe I have the 4 speed, and not the 5 speed auto. Correct me if I'm wrong. I have checked the fluid and it is red, not burnt. Any suggestions would be great. Truck hasn't been driven in 2-3 yrs... I hope I made since, anything I left out that would help please let me know and I will provide any info needed.

Thanks!

 

Truck is a 5 speed, just checked trans code on truck "D"... Any direction would be great. Thanks!!

 

I have a 2001 ranger 3.0 4x4 auto.
And its hard to explain but from a stop it like stutters its like if the engine was missing but im almost positive its not what could be wrong?

 

we were all there at one point man. mistakes will happen and lessons learned the hard way, it's easy to forget where a ball goes or not see a dropped of manual valve link even a simple clip.
I worked as a dealer wrench for 45 years ,have done many a trans rebuild, yet 2 months back while doing a gm 4l65 valve body repair I forgot "brain fart in a hurry" to reinstall the od solenoid retainer clip laying under a wiper rag , slipping unit, no od. wasted 9 qts of syntech gm trans oil.

 

I have all the parts, TSB and ready to perform this surgery. My question is about the reverse servo. Fordboy's instruction state to remove the reverse servo, but yet here on post #82 he says to leave reverse servo in if at all possible.
So which is it? and what are the reasons you would remove it cause it says to leave it "if at all possible"
Thanks

 

I haven't managed to read all 52 pages of replies to this thread yet , but i am very glad this thread is here . Lots of good info .
I came across this video on Youtube which shows the valve body gasket replacement procedure from start to finish on the 5r55e transmission . If you have never looked at a transmission before ,like myself, but would like to try it your self this is a very good very clear video . it also answered a newbe question I was wondering , which was do you need to remove the transmission from the truck in order to do the repair , which you don't . this makes the repair a much more manageable attempt for a newbe like me .
here is the video enjoy :

 

I dont see any issues with the reverse servo if it is removed or not, I personally would remove it from the case just to check the seals and the end of the servo pin, sometimes they wear.

 

Hello Everyone, I am new to the site and have read through most of these posts but can not seem to find anyone with the same problem I have. My trans issues started with the long shift delay in to reverse. I had the trans rebuilt and that is when I started to have the hard up and down shift problems and of course the dreaded flashing O/D light. I have had it back in the shop many times, new posi-shift valve body installed, new solenoids and the problem continues. The issues I have now is that the seal for the O/D servo keeps splitting, we think this is due to the high pressure between shifts (500 psi....) and after normal driving for a day suddenly the trans decides to stop down shifting. From reading all of the posts I understand the hard shift but not the down shifting. It is a 4 speed and the code we keep getting is that 5th gear is missing? When it does down shift it is really late and makes the brake pedal shake. I would appreciate your thoughts and prayers!