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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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  #1  
Old 02-16-2007, 02:55 PM
cybercrone cybercrone is offline
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1986 F-150, bypass ignition switch to start engine

Hello, folks....
The ignition key in my F-150 is extremely hard to turn and I waited to do anything about it until now it won't start engine at all. The last mechanic who fixed this said that this happens because a lot of dirt accumulates and the rod that connects the key lock to the ignition switch gets jammed--I may have the details slightly wrong but that's the essence of it --it's dirt.

I have to pay $85 to have my truck towed to mechanic, and then there is their minimum fee, and so on, so I thought I'd open up the steering post and clean it out myself. Unfortunately, I discovered that my Chilton's Repair Manual is TERRIBLE--I couldn't make any sense of their directions, which were extremely minimal and poorly illustrated and it looked VERY complicated.

So I guess I have to take it to mechanic but at least I'd like to get out of the $85 tow charge, so I want to know how to bypass the ignition key to start the truck, then at least I can drive it up there.

I would appreciate detailed directions (or URL of a site that has such directions). I am imagining I have to jump something on or to the starter?

CyberCrone
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Old 02-16-2007, 06:01 PM
Mil1ion Mil1ion is offline
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The primary ignition circuit normally needs a resistance wire to avoid burning out the coil. This resistance lowers the power to the coil to 8.5 volts.
You could run a wire from the + terminal of the coil to the battery + post for a little while to move the truck a short distance.
However, you have been warned of the consequences if it is kept hooked up too long.
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Old 02-16-2007, 10:37 PM
seemanproservices seemanproservices is offline
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I just got a truck free and had no key the problem with jumping the coil is that it wont let the steeringwheel turn so I took the colum out took it to lock smith he made a key and cleaned it out, my bill was 34.00 ( 2 keys ) works great it only takes 30 min to take colum out try to squirt wd in the key lock if not take to lock smith just take the colum out
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Old 02-16-2007, 11:43 PM
Mil1ion Mil1ion is offline
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I forgot to mention the start part.

Attach a jumper wire from the + Battery post to the S terminal.


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Old 02-17-2007, 12:02 AM
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Take the covers off the column. On top of the column you should see the rod that goes down to the switch.

Take some pliers and firmly grab the rod. While turning the key, "help" the rod by pushing it down/forward. You have limited room where the pliers are, so you may have to let go and grab a new spot to push the rod far enough to start the truck.
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Old 02-17-2007, 10:30 AM
cybercrone cybercrone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mil1ion
The primary ignition circuit normally needs a resistance wire to avoid burning out the coil. This resistance lowers the power to the coil to 8.5 volts.
You could run a wire from the + terminal of the coil to the battery + post for a little while to move the truck a short distance.
However, you have been warned of the consequences if it is kept hooked up too long.
I found this method elsewhere, without the info on burning out the coil, and was about to try it! I need to drive it ten miles to the mechanic so obviously this wouldn't be a good solution for me. I appreciate the warning!

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Old 02-17-2007, 10:42 AM
cybercrone cybercrone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franklin2
Take the covers off the column. On top of the column you should see the rod that goes down to the switch.

Take some pliers and firmly grab the rod. While turning the key, "help" the rod by pushing it down/forward. You have limited room where the pliers are, so you may have to let go and grab a new spot to push the rod far enough to start the truck.
That doesn't sound too hard! My manual's illustration of dissembling top part is so unclear and garbled I couldn't make head nor tail of it. To go a step further, is it not as hard as my manual makes it look to take the steering post apart to clean out the dirt that (I assume from past experience) is keeping that rod from getting where it needs to go?

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Old 02-17-2007, 10:43 AM
dansmurf dansmurf is offline
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Does the key turn at all? If it will turn to the run position all you have to do is jump the starter solenoid. If not I would remove the ignition switch from the column and bypass the rods in the column. I have seen a post within the last few weeks with directions how to remove the ignition switch.
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Old 02-17-2007, 10:48 AM
cybercrone cybercrone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seemanproservices
I just got a truck free and had no key the problem with jumping the coil is that it wont let the steeringwheel turn so I took the colum out took it to lock smith he made a key and cleaned it out, my bill was 34.00 ( 2 keys ) works great it only takes 30 min to take colum out try to squirt wd in the key lock if not take to lock smith just take the colum out
I would really like to learn to take the column out myself but can't make sense of my repair manual and am not confident enough to just play it by instinct. Do you know where there are good instructions or at least clear illustrations?
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Old 02-17-2007, 10:52 AM
cybercrone cybercrone is offline
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Although my immediate concern is just to get the truck started, I have seen mention of dash-mounted ignitions and would like to consider this as a way to avoid this problem in the future, which tends to happen at least every two years, sometimes even more often. But an initial search of the Web didn't bring up much for this 1986 F-150, and the one I did find was around $500! Not an option at that price.

Any suggestions?

CyberCrone
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Old 02-17-2007, 11:15 AM
cybercrone cybercrone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dansmurf
Does the key turn at all? If it will turn to the run position all you have to do is jump the starter solenoid. If not I would remove the ignition switch from the column and bypass the rods in the column. I have seen a post within the last few weeks with directions how to remove the ignition switch.
Yes, the key reaches the run position with no problem, it just gets real hard to turn the closer to start position it gets. DUH--maybe others have assumed I can't turn the key! since I wasn't specific about that.

You got a real novice on your hands here, so I need to know what you mean by jump the starter solenoid. Do you mean just jump the two posts on the solenoid? Or jump to solenoid + post from something else?

As for second suggestion, what do you mean by bypass the rods? If the rods aren't in contact, what do I need to do instead? I am imagining pushing manually on whatever it is the rods push on?

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Old 02-17-2007, 11:23 AM
cybercrone cybercrone is offline
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Red face

Wait a minute, wait a minute. If the ignition switch is external to the steering post, and the rods connect to the ignition switch, shouldn't those rods be exposed when the ig switch is removed? And wouldn't it be right there where the rods connect that the dirt has accumulated that subverts the connection? So shouldn't I be able to clean that out by removing the switch and not have to deal with the steering post at all? Or is this the wild fantasy of ignorance?
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Old 02-17-2007, 03:34 PM
dansmurf dansmurf is offline
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Put the key in the run position and then jump the solenoid as Mil1ion stated here.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Mil1ion
I forgot to mention the start part.

Attach a jumper wire from the + Battery post to the S terminal.


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  #14  
Old 02-17-2007, 04:15 PM
cybercrone cybercrone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dansmurf
Put the key in the run position and then jump the solenoid as Mil1ion stated here.
Oooops! Got distracted with later messages and forgot that Mil1ion had already said that, with picture and all. Blush blush.

Easy! Whew.

CyberCrone
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  #15  
Old 02-17-2007, 08:17 PM
Mil1ion Mil1ion is offline
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Upgraded version.

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Old 02-17-2007, 08:17 PM
 
 
 
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