Well here is an update from my steering wheel problem. As most of you know I pulled the wheel off after oversizing the puller holes and rethreading them. Yesterday I went out and started investigating my turn signal problem since I could actually move my arm again. Once the wheel was out of the way I disconnected the turn signal harness and pulled it completely out of the column. I checked for broken wires using a multimeter. Everything checked out fine. I took the turn signal switch apart and found one of the power bars had melted just a little bit of its retainer. I fixed that as best as I could with a bit of epoxy and a jewelers file. Sanded off the tip of the turn signal lever pivot where the two parts of the switch are held together. Drilled and tapped it for a 6/32 screw and a washer. Now the upper part of the switch can be replaced at a later time without mutilating it. Put it all together and checked my work before installing the wheel. Well to my surprise the headlights and turn signals weren't working. I called it a day to lessen the chances of me having a temper tantrum in the cab of my truck.
So today, after is stopped raining for 7 hours, I went out and pulled the headlight switch and fuse block. Took the headlight switch apart and inspected it. Yes I know the headlight switches are riveted together. I have a tap and die kit and I love to use them. Cleaned all the contacts off threaded the switch housing for 8/32 screws and assembled it. The fuse block is every bit of 43 years old. Some wire terminals have been replaced over the years that I have owned the truck so I went and checked them all again. Looking over my wiring diagram I found the hot wires for the headlights and turn signals. Headlight has 12v power so I check them and I have head lights. Then I start to probe around for the 12v source for the turn signals. I get voltage before the fuse after the fuse, to the flasher from the flasher, at the turn signal switch and so on. I was even smart enough to check the brake light power wire going up to and at the turn signal switch. It all checks out fine. The turn signal switch is tightened down and I made sure no wires were going to ground out while I have the dash out. Turn the ignition and not a turn signal worked. The flasher didn't even make a sound. So with the ignition on I check the voltage at the flasher again. I am now reading .480-3.4 volts. So now I am scratching my head. I recheck the turn signal fuse both in and out of it 11.55 volts. Check the flasher input wire back down it goes again. So now I think I have a bad wire, run a quick jumper wrapped around the fuse and it does the same thing. Am I going crazy here? The turn signal switch wasn't even on and the voltage was doing this. I know I would see the voltage come and go with power running through it but this is just strange.
Anyone not asleep after reading all that please enlighten me if you can. I thought I had it all covered. I even figured out my trucks wiring isn't the same wire color codes as listed on the diagram. I did remark it with the approriate colors though. Tomorrow I am going to run fused 12v to each turn signal again with a new flasher and see if that is it. Thanks for reading.

 

Aahhh the joys of working on old vehicle electrics !. All you can do is go at it in a troubleshooting like manner. I'm not much help 'cause it really is one of those "hands on jobs" by the sound of it, but it sure sounds like an earthing problem to me.

The fact that the voltage is dropping under load tends to indicate an earthing problem. The problem may not be at the switch or the flasher can, but further toward the lights or a faulty Indicator light. Best thing is to have a helper while you fiddling to keep an eye out for lights glowing while you're under the dash.

It could be a dodgy power wire as you have indicated. Perhaps badly corroded over the years or maybe stretched and holding on by a few strands only and causing the voltage drop. The only way to check is test each section........what a pain in the backside.

You can bet when you find the fault it'll be something simple !.

Sorry I can't be of more help.
Good Luck............Barry.

 

You are a much more "mature" mechanic than I am. You walked away the first time and came back the next day. When I returned the next day I would have had to deal with the results of the tantrum that I WOULD have had. I cant offer much other than moral support and an internet shoulder to cry on.

Good Luck
Ross

 

Thanks guys. Its actually nice to read what I wrote and your comments. Though they may not be techincal it does help. The part store opens in a couple of hours and I am going to be reading the wiring diagram again to see if I missed something in the meantime. The flasher unit in the truck looks to be from the late 70's or early 80's. I will post back when I fix it or need a little more from you all.

 

Mark I agre with Barry, your problem sounds like a ground problem when the sys is static. Therefore begin by Dbl CHkg things going to/ from T-Sig Switch when it is static. Like wire supplying brake light switch power or brake light switch itself.

What switch are you using for your brake lights? The wet, PSI Activated or one of the Dry Mechanical motion activated types? I have seen the wet type do that. In fact problem Late Model F-150s have, of bursting into flames from Criuse Control switch, is because for some ignorant reason FoMoCo chose to use a wet type pressure switch at master cylinder. When it cross/shorts out it overheats setting harness then vehicle on fire. . . .

I'm not saying your truck will burn, I'm saying the wet switches do strange things when used with P/D/B systems. . . . .

Also Dbl Chk total ground loop, battery to frame, to engine, to body, back to Battery. Good clean, tight connections with equal voltage on both sides etc.

FBp

 

The brake light power wire at the switch is fine. I had to do some digging to figure out which wire it was since the wire diagram listed it as a black/red stripe wire. I don't have one of those so I pressed the brake pedal to find it, green/orange stripe. The brake lights work in fact. The grounding points for the whole system were checked minus the tail light grounds while I had the engine out. I ran new wires for the battery, replaced the frame/engine/cab ground cables and replaced start solinoid to ensure the starting system is working properly. I even double checked that two days ago but didn't mention it. But since the brake lights and turn signal share the same ground it seems a little strange that one works but the other doesn't. From the way the power wire to the flasher is acting, I suspect there is corrosion on the fuse box clips or the wire itself. I think I happened to wiggle it just right when I was monkeying around in there. Once I get a new flasher and fuses I'll check the tail light grounds from inside the sockets. Just to make sure those aren't going bad. Then clean off the grounding points under the bed.
I post back with something later on today. I also didn't know the thing about the pressure switch possibly setting trucks on fire. LOL It would be ironic if it did catch fire since I have flames painted on it. Thankfully I have a mechanical switch in my part bins. It's just a matter of fixing this problem before I add another one to it.

 

As PBp noted, sounds like possible ground problem. I usually start by checking flasher unit, if okay, then procede to rear taillights then start working forward. Not very often do I need to go beyond the taillight assembly. Found problem either in the socket (rusted poor ground between bulb and socket), or poor connector. Frayed wires, or corroded connectors no longer an issue, replaced the taillight harness. Not sure if the 'stop light switch' has any effect on circuit, may want to check see if brake lights work. Cleaned and used dielectric grease at all the connectors, to include turn harness ground wires in the engine compartment. Also, sanded contact area's and applied dielectric grease where harness is grounded to the frame. Did same to all ground straps, added couple extra straps while at it. Been few years and have not had any problems since. Although, the horn is another matter, works intermittently. Hate those darn electrical grimlins. Good luck!!

dave

 

My blinkers just quit on me last week. pulled the fuse out, it was a little corroded, but it looked ok to me. after spending a day chasing those electrical gremlins i decided to splurge and buy a new pack of 14A fuses. solved my problem.


small question? Is there a way to make the blinkers blink a little faster? Can I just install a different flasher pod? Is a #552 correct?

 

Here is the lastest, my fuse block sucks and I have a magically appearing temp light socket missing a bulb behind the dash that I found shorting out the light system. I quadrupple checked my wiring diagram and it doesn't exist according to that. The entire light system works now after I taped it off from itself. After I put each piece of my column or dash together I checked the turn signals again to make sure I didn't mess anything up. Truck runs and even has all the lights on but brighter! Imagine that.

So here's what I have found out since this whole thing started.
1. 43 year old wiring needs to be gutted and a new harness installed.
2. Melting tail light wires on the exhaust pipes reeks havoc on your plastic turn signal switch.
3. Steering wheels can be a pain in the rear when you strip out the puller holes.
4. Wiring guides are more of a suggestion then followed at the factory making them great at confusing you. Don't believe the wire colors or that they will have all the answers. I am still wonder what the extra light socket is for. Ok I look at a different wire diagram, it's for the temperture light. Funny since I have a stock guage.
5. Take your time while troubleshooting wires. The answer could litterally be staring at you.
6. Walk away. You think clearer when you don't want to choke the life out of a 18 guage wire.
7. Grounding points are still a good place to check for faults.

 

Possibly high beam indicator, or if instrument cluster was swapped out at some point, may be one of the instrument bulbs for either the 'alt' or 'oil pressure' gauge. Not sure, possibly difference between the dash harness for Custom Cab, and Standard Cab.

dave

 

Well either way I am glad that nightmare is over. Next will be running a completely new wiring harness front to rear to replace my old crusty one. I can only imagine some of the fun things I will find with that. The headlight relay, horn relay, and steering wheel horn button will also be incorporated. Hopefully I don't butcher that too badly.

 

Mark let me know what wiring Harness you decide to go with I'm playing the guessing game with that one right now.

 

Well I am stuck between using a Ford fuse block from a 76 Lincoln and running my own wires or going the EZ Wire 18 circuit mini-fuse route. I have spools upon spools of wire available to me but it wouldn't be marked for what circuit like the EZ. Also the EZ is color coded for GM. So either way I would be mapping my own wire colors.

 

Good News that you've got it all sorted. If you can handle trouble shooting electrics then fitting a New harness or a Used one from a latter effy shouldn't be too much of a drama. My choice here would be a pre-efi effy harness, unless you are using an efi motor now.

The other option is build your own harness. Not as difficult as you may think , particularly with simple wiring like on these trucks. Plus you've got the old one to copy and improve upon and modify as required.

Cheers..........Barry.

 

I think I'll check the wrecking yard tomorrow. $5 or $130. LOL