truck is a 4x4 ext cab 4.6, shops want 4-5 hundred to do brakes, im not paying that.

the rear drums shoud be fine, how hard is it to replace the front rotors and pads? do i need a bearing packer? how much do they cost?

i will be taking the rotors off myself and having someone else turn them


thanks

 

If the rotors are rusty, I would just replace them. It's almost as much to have them turned these days as it is to replace. Unless there is little to no rust and they still appear thick. You only need to take the caliper off(i believe it was a 12mm bolt?) then remove the caliper mounting bracket(2 bolts at 18mm i believe?). Hammer the rotor off. Sand any rust off of the flange and apply anti-seize to prevent the rotor from rusting to the flange. You will need either a caliper piston compression tool or a BIG set of channel locks(I prefer the channel locks...) to push the caliper piston back into the caliper. Then simply regrease the slides to make sure they aren't frozen and reinstall everything. VERY simple job....

No bearing packer will be needed. This is for 4x2 vehicles only. be sure to check the pads when you take them off for any wear tabs they may have and to match any tabs on the old pads up with tabs on the new pads to ensure they are installed correctly(i.e...if the tab is on the inside pad at the top, then be sure the new pad is installed with the tab on the inside and on the top)... Good luck!

 

Don't forget to remove the big nut under the bearing cover in the middle of the rotor. I forgot and for the life of me, couldn't figure out why the rotor wouldn't come off.

 

The big nut in the middle of the rotor doesn't need to come off on a 4x4. The rotor should just "pull" off, although they are notorious for rusting in place and needing LOTS of persuasion.

 

than what keeps the rotor from coming off while driving, should be a nut?

 

They're essentially held on by the wheel.

 

The rotors are actually nested between the pads when the calpier is bolted in place. It kind of floats there until the wheel is tightened down. Be sure you have a good 18mm box wrench as well as the 18mm socket. If you've never had the calipers off, be ready to either put some real grunting into getting them started or keep the box wrench on the head solid at tap it with a hammer. Once they start to loosen you shouldnt have any trouble. On the difficulty scale of 1-10 (1 being easiest). I would rate it a 3. Only because you need to jack up the truck and pull the wheel.

The only reason you would need to remove the nut is if you are replacing the hub assembly.

 

The nut holds the cv shaft into the spindle. No need to remove unless replacing ball joints or bearing. The rotor is held in place via the caliper then when you mount the tire it will snug the rotor to the flange....