bed floor replacement, who's done this?
#1
10-13-2001, 08:55 AM
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bed floor replacement, who's done this?
I need to replace the metal floor in the bed of my '58 F-100 style side. The corrigated section is rusted thin in places and someone has made a few 4" diameter holes in the floor.
I've looked but can't find the corrigated metal to use after I remove the old bed floor. I thought about diamond plate but it is heavy and ugly.
Any idea what can be done here?
change to wood?
remove the floor fron a doner bed?
Thanks!
Steve
I've looked but can't find the corrigated metal to use after I remove the old bed floor. I thought about diamond plate but it is heavy and ugly.
Any idea what can be done here?
change to wood?
remove the floor fron a doner bed?
Thanks!
Steve
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10-13-2001, 10:39 AM
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10-13-2001, 09:50 PM
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bed floor replacement, who's done this?
First - what are you using the truck for?? If its a work truck and you don't care, cut and weld in a 4 x 8 sheet of whatever and have at it.
But if your into restoring the truck to original your options are limited. Get all the catalogs and go for it.
Whatever you decide, good luck
Dave
54 FE
But if your into restoring the truck to original your options are limited. Get all the catalogs and go for it.
Whatever you decide, good luck
Dave
54 FE
#4
10-14-2001, 10:08 AM
bed floor replacement, who's done this?
My 54 F-350 has a 9' bed plus a dump lift. The bed was done with flat 1/8" steel plate. Strengthening ribs were added underneath where they dont interfere.
This was done in 54 by the original landscaper owner and still is in good shape. Ive mounted a hydraulic hoist and a winch to make picking up engines a snap. Strictly a hobby work truck.
This was done in 54 by the original landscaper owner and still is in good shape. Ive mounted a hydraulic hoist and a winch to make picking up engines a snap. Strictly a hobby work truck.
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10-16-2001, 02:34 PM
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#6
10-16-2001, 03:36 PM
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bed floor replacement, who's done this?
Use a torch and cut the floor out of your box as low and close to the edges as possible. Make yourself some new crossmembers with flat tops, and weld them in. Then cut and weld sections of 3/4 x 1 1/2" angle iron at intervals on the box sides and front with the 3/4" section attached to the bed, and the 1 1/2" section at the same height as the new crossmembers.
Go to the local lumber store. Buy the most durable wood you can afford. Make sure it is at least 1" thick in order to hide the angle iron supporting the sides. Once it is all laid out, give the wood a coat of stain and attach it to the crossmembers either directly with bolts, or order a bed strip kit from Mac's and adapt it to your liking.
You will have to play with the height of the crossmembers / thickness of wood to make it look right when the tailgate is down, but that is why they make tape measures.
Hope that helps,
/Kris
Go to the local lumber store. Buy the most durable wood you can afford. Make sure it is at least 1" thick in order to hide the angle iron supporting the sides. Once it is all laid out, give the wood a coat of stain and attach it to the crossmembers either directly with bolts, or order a bed strip kit from Mac's and adapt it to your liking.
You will have to play with the height of the crossmembers / thickness of wood to make it look right when the tailgate is down, but that is why they make tape measures.
Hope that helps,
/Kris
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