Your starter could just be bad from the incident, pull it, have it tested at Auto zone or somewhere else, usually no charge.

 

Take off the belt, or leave it on, put a 15/16" socket on a small extension with ratchet, on the nut for the flywheel, and see if the motor turns easily for you, should not require much effort. Lay down on the ground and reach up is easiest.

Didn't mean to copy cat timbersteel

 

nope brand spankin new batt. i will take it back to advance to have them recheck it. it tried to turn over fine with a no spark condition until this started happing.

 

may be the starter/solinooid and/or switch (not sure 100% whats involved with the whole starter end) maybe wires loose some place...

 

well i was thinking the starter switch to but that was the first thing i replaced. i have followed every flipping wire from the starter switch to the end and everything looks fine. i also replaced the starter because that failed the bench test but my new one cant get enough juice. still will have the batt checked first chance i get. i will also try to check to see if its seized up. god i hope not.

 

ok here is where im at with this truck. there is a circler cluster of wires on the driver side of the fire wall. i disconnected it and put the batt fully chargered at 12.86 volts and it held. i unhooked the batt and hooked the cluster back up when i connected the batt once again it dropped to 7 volts. so i now think that its in the cab. i still kept all the fuses inside the cab out so it has to be something that has to be something that is hot all the time right? well i cant think of anything besides headlights and ignition switch. since the problem happens without the key in. i feel that im one step closer. please if you have any ideas help me. also on the other note the engine is not seized up. good news. i must have a short.

 

if your battery voltage drops to 7 you have a bad battery. I shouldnt drop below 9.5 when cranking, and thats pulling 150-200 ampps. If you had that big of a draw it would melt wires.

 

it drops without me even making it to the cab to try to crank it. as soon as i hook it up it drops but not when i unhook the wire cluster from the fire wall.






The batt is good i started another car with it. same problem with the other batt on my truck as well. could it be the voltage refulator. advance ran that by me.

 

Take apart that cluster of wires going to the positive side of the battery. one by one reinstall ONE wire only and see which wire has the most draw. Most likely you have other things fried from the battery being install backwards.

Better yet, pull out the battery and use a OHM meter with conitunuity and put the Neg side of the meter on the vehicle chassis ground, and then test each wire indvuidualy to see what is shorted. With key off you should NOT see any thing under 1K ohm.

I got a free truck from this exact issue! After replacing just about every electronic part, Got it running and made $$$ on it!

 

The battery can't be good. There's no way you could drain that much current that quickly. If you did the terminals and cables would melt from the heat. You are talking about an *incredible* amount of current.

Get another battery.

 

Take the starter, and the battery out to be checked at the parts house...let the battery sit over night without charging it, then tomorrow have them both tested... I bet there both bad

 

Where are you measuring to get 7 volts? You need to check it directly on the battery terminals. If you have 12v there with the wires all hooked up and you move the neg to the block and get 7, then you have a voltage drop between the battery and block.

 

i checked right on the batt itself with a ohm meter. I just used that batt to start another car and it worked no problem but not in my truck. what do you mean move the neg to the block?

 

just noticed that i still have headlights with the fuse pulled out. is that a bad sign?

 

Either someone jumped the fuse (it no longer has a funtion) or you don't have the correct diagram (or didn't read it well).