I've got an 89 ranger with a 2.3 around 130,000 miles on it. Last week while driving down the road my oil gauge started to flutter back and forth, now it seems to have no oil pressure when engine has sit awhile (2 hours or more) on start up. Once warmed up the pressure is normal and have no problems. I replaces the switch hoping thats all it was, but did nothing. I know it's a actual pressure problem cause at first start up the lifters are making a noise, after 3 or 4 minutes of warm up the pressure goes to normal and no problems. I can shut it off for a little while and start back up and fine, but letting it sit a couple hours or more back to no pressure at start up till it warms up. Does this sound like a major pump or bearing problem? Someone told me to replace the oil pressure regulator gasket (i've never heard of such a thing)! Any help greatly appreciated! It's a good little truck and hate to have the engine blow! Thanks in advance!

 

Have you changed the oil lately?
Old oil gets thin and that could be the problem.You could also try a heavier oil(15-40)and see if that helps.

 

If you haven't changed the oil lately or if you used a filter other than Motorcraft, that's where I would start & go with a good oil in 5W30........ Don't go heavier with the oil... It will be even harder to get it to flowing....

 

Yes, I did change the oil used a fram filter and 10W30 oil. Did not help the problem any. Could I get/use a shorter filter for it. I live in Ohio and winter can get cold so I dont think I should use a thicker oil, i was thinking of thinner. Is 5W30 about the thinnest? It seems like the longer it sets or the colder it is the longer it takes to start pumping oil and register on gauge. Many Thanks!

 

5w30 is the only oil to use in the 2.3 of your vintage. I don't think it is causing the problem but there are alot of us who would tell you to lose the Fram oil filters. If you changed the oil recently so the filter is new that shouldn't be the issue. Next time, recommend you go Motorcraft, which most parts stores carry and even Wally World has them.

The 2.3 does have an oil pump and it is run off the timing belt. The fluttering gauge can be common signal for oil pump issues in some vehicles but with the Ranger's gauge being more of a glorified idiot light I can't say for sure that is a true indicator on your truck. But the symptoms you describe make me wonder if it is not building up proper pressure until everything, including it, gets warmed up enough. Don't know if it is worn or for some reason the timing belt is not turning it. I know that what can happen on some engines if the oil pump is a problem, then air gets in there and that can cause a ticking noise because not enough oil is getting to the hydraulic lash adjusters. Can't say specifically for the 2.3 but it may be a point to consider.

 

Hmmmmm.... The oil pump is ran by the timing belt? Could there be a worn gear? Could I take off the timing cover to check? Sorry for all the questions but i'm use to working on V8 motors not these small things. Most pumps i've worked on ran off the distributer, but now that you say that it has no distributer! Is the pump external then? Can it be replaced or rebuilt without pulling the motor? Look's like i'm going to have to get a manual on it, it's been colder and seems to be getting worse. This morning it took around 4or5 minutes to register pressure on gauge and top end noisey. Hope it keeps getting me back and forth to work till I can fix it! Many Thanks!

 

This is from the Ford service CD I have on the 2.3 in my 97. Best place to get the CD is ebay. Don't know if your ignition on the older Ranger is electronic but obviously if it is no distributor. I don't want to send you the wrong direction. If you have a timing chain, not a belt, on the older engine, you probably can't get the thing off without pulling the motor. It may be that the belt did not start until 95. I'd check more specifically on your engine but if it has the belt the procedure is below. Don't want to steer you the wrong way and I don't have a manual that goes before 95.

Oil Pump


Removal

1. Rotate crankshaft (6303) so number one piston (6108) is at TDC (Top Dead Center) of its compression stroke.

2. Remove outer timing belt cover as outlined in this section.

3. Remove timing belt as outlined in this section.

4. Remove oil pump timing belt sprocket as outlined in this section.

5. Disconnect the camshaft position (CMP) sensor wiring connector.

6. Remove two screws and camshaft position sensor (CMP sensor) (6B288).

7. Remove four oil pump screws.

8. CAUTION: Do not pry on sealing surfaces.

Pry between cylinder blocks (6010) and ear on oil pump (6600) as shown to loosen oil pump.

9. Remove oil pump and oil pump to cylinder block gasket (6659).

10. Clean surfaces of oil pump and cylinder blocks.

 

I have a 99 Ranger 3.0 and here lately with it geting cold, my guage wont register any pressure until about a minute or two either, but I dont have any lifter noise or anything, could this be a sensor or something?

 

Well I'm assuming you've changed oil and filter recently and level is OK, but I'd check the sender. Just replacing it is not expensive. I have heard of this issue where people are using bum filters, I use only Motorcraft.

Another option is to check it with an actual pressure gauge, here are a couple threads to help:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...oil+test+gauge

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...oil+test+gauge

 

Sounds like a bad sending unit "switch". It's located behind the head on the passenger's side.

 

Did you have this problem before you changed the oil? The lack of pressure on start up sounds like the filter is draining back, meaning a lag until the system gets pressure.
Of course 3 to 4 minutes seems long to pick it up, except that the lifters may take that long to refill.

 

Yes, it was due for a change about the time it started. I was hoping a new filter and oil would solve it, but no differance once i did the oil change and filter! It does seem like it is loosing pressure or running all back down cause once i drive it for awhile it seems to be OK, but in the morning's it's really bad. I know it cant be good for the engine. I got a manual on it , appears the oil pump is in engine and engine needs to be removed to replace it. Just dont have the time for all that at the moment, may get a new motorcraft filter and some oil and see if any differance, but not to confident that it will help. Many Thanks!

 

Might I make a suggestion, change the filter, if the anti drainback valve leaks it is the cause. I don't know what your using, I use Purolator on my stuff and have no problems, besides that if you have a Pep Boys store around you can get them for .99
cents, with a coupon found in their Sunday adds.

 

I would also change your oil pressure sending unit "switch".

 

Yeah, change the oil and use the Motorcraft filters. Then do it again pretty soon after the oil becomes black again. Probably within a couple hundred miles if due to bad Fram filters. Don't know why so many car guys keep saying go heavy oil. Many CNC operators kept wanting to make super-heavy mixes of coolant for CNC lathes, too. As long as the oil is still good for the correct mix, the light carrier medium(s) WILL get the critical lubes where they're needed most. A too thick or blackened mix has no prayer in the universe. Shoot in the lathes, too heavy a mix would often break down faster and clog up the pumps quicker.
In our Rangers, I think the Fram filters do screw up with the drainback bypass and shoot the filtered crud right back into the good. Purolators not as bad perhaps, but no complaints with Motorcraft. Cheap insurance.