i was wondering what the difference between the economy and delux crossmembers from heits are? the economy needs finish grinding for paint purposes? why? isthat all? how big of a deal is this? is it worth it?
next----
is the standard a arms just as good as the tubular a arms? are they equal in performance and different in looks?
im happy with the economy with standard a arms if looks are the only difference.
i think i want a total kit (cause of ease of piecing it together) but i want the big rotors. is this possible with a heits kit(they seem to be preferred) or do i have to go elsewhere or put my own kit together?

 

Full packages are available from Heidts. Full details with pricing can be found here:

http://www.heidts.com/heip17.htm

Big brakes (11") adds $75 if you want Ford rotors or $95 if you want Chevy rotors.

- JT

 

does it make a difference between the ford or chevy rotors? are 11" the same?

 

However, before you buy an MII setup.. please give Steve @ Industrial Chassis a call and talk to him about his Dodge Dakota crossmember. I am about 90% certain I am going with this setup, the other 10% is leaning towards Heidt's Superide II setup which is NOT a MII setup. The Superide II setup is similar but features a one-piece crossmember.

Steve @ Industrial Chassis can be reached at 602.278.6800.

Link to Superide II can be found here: http://www.heidts.com/heip20.htm

Here is a digital picture I took of Industrial Chassis's advertisement in one of the rags. BTW, Steve knows I did this and does not have any issues so please, don't yell at me about Copyright issues.

http://www.geekopolis.com/ic-dakota.jpg

- JT

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 16-Nov-02 AT 06:58 PM (EST)]>i was wondering what the difference between the economy and
>delux crossmembers from heits are? the economy needs finish
>grinding for paint purposes? why? isthat all? how big of a
>deal is this? is it worth it?

George... I bought the economy crossmember... the welds were so nice that you could prime and paint without touching them...really nice work.. but I took a flap disc and smoothed them down. I'm running a flip front end and I'm trying to dress accordingly.

>next----
>is the standard a arms just as good as the tubular a arms?
>are they equal in performance and different in looks?
>im happy with the economy with standard a arms if looks are
>the only difference.


the stock arms (or standard) will do everything you want. Here again..tilt front..tubular=prettier. If you're running stock fenders and inner fenders... they won't show anyway. I also didn't want the stock lowers with strut rods to deal with. I bought my tubular stuff from Jim Weimer... high quality and cheaper than Heidt's.


>i think i want a total kit (cause of ease of piecing it
>together) but i want the big rotors. is this possible with a
>heits kit(they seem to be preferred) or do i have to go
>elsewhere or put my own kit together?

I never did a price comparison on total kit vrs individual parts... I picked and choose my parts and can send you part numbers if you want.. Heidts can tell you what year and model components to buy to fit your crossmember... basically it's mid 80's granada 11" rotors and Chevelle/MonteCarlo/ GMC calipers and pads. We tried hard to find ford calipers that would work easily but were unsuccessful... Charles in Pennsacola (aka Darkman) researched this extensively...


hope this helps

John

 

yes part #'s would help i suppose. i'm still lost on what a strut rod is? and the issues reguarding the removal on these? so if i understand the stock to tubular is looks not effectiveness, correct? i'm running full fenders with inner fenders, and am not sure that looks mean that much to me for the suspension for the price. thanks. the dakota kits seem to be pricey, not saying they are better or not just more money. what about the drop from these kits?

 

on the dakota kit, if its one piece how do you install to frame?

 

Having been through this several times, I think the crossmember you choose depends somewhat on your budget. I've always tried to do mine as inexpensively as possible, so that precludes buying the complete Heidt's setup. If I were doing it again, I would buy an inexpensive crossmember designed for your truck (don't try to use an OEM crossmember...been there and made that mistake), and use stock upper control arms (used if you can find them) unless you have a clearance issue with the fenders (unlikely with a truck). If you do have clearance problems, use the the tubular aftermarket uppers. For the lowers, get the aftermarket ones that eliminate the strut rods and it will make installation easier. If your installation includes strut rods and brackets, then you can use stock lower control arms. Get a rebuilt rack and pinion and buy new coil springs made especially for your application (A1 springs is a good choice...tell them what you have and they can recommend the proper spring). Or, if you can afford them, front coilovers work really well. Get a good pair of used spindles and a low buck brake kit which allows the use of GM or Granada rotors. I've used a kit from speedway motors a couple of times that used 68-72 GM 11 inch rotors and that works out very well.

 

>on the dakota kit, if its one piece how do you install to
>frame?

The Dakota isn't one piece. Heidt's Superide II is one piece, take a good look at the picture of it and you'll see how it welds to the frame.

- JT

 

im still lost on the strut rods, are they good or no?
i want innexpensive too. does that mean buy the hiets cross member and try to piece all other parts together? and this will be cheaper then the economy kit from heits? i thought buying a kit would be roughfly 2000 maybe less will piecing a kit together be cheaper and easier or harder to track down and bolt on?

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 17-Nov-02 AT 11:34 AM (EST)]The original suspensions came with strut rods. Rods that are mounted to the lower control arms and go back to a rubber insulated bracket welded to the frame. Some of the aftermarket companies figured out a way to eliminate the strut rods by re-designing the lower control arms. It might be a matter or personal choice, but I'd prefer not to have to weld the additional strut rod brackets to the frame and also the rubber insulator mounts tend to wear out. I don't know that eliminating them makes any difference in ride or handling, just an easier install with fewer parts. Most all of the crossmembers are the same, so I don't think it matters too much where you buy it. What is going to save you the most money is in using salvage yard parts as opposed to buying new. There are still some Mustang IIs and Pintos around to salvage parts from. Try Ebay. Sometimes there are some on there. If you buy all the major pieces like spindles and upper and lower control arms (but you can't use OEM lower control arms if you eliminate the strut rods) from a salvage yard, you can probably cut the cost in half, but you have to be willing to look around for the parts. Use new ball joints and tie rods ends, new springs (although you might get by on used springs) and a rebuilt rack and pinion.

 

yeah it will be worth looking for used parts for price reasons. i dont want strut rods so i'm glad you explained it. the dakota is definitley more so thats out. do you recomend not getting any of the parts used? thanks

 

Use new tie-rod ends, plan on replacing all control arm bushings, new ball joints, and I'd go with a rebuilt rack and pinion (although you might get away with a good used one), and coil springs (again, you might get away with used). If you go with a brake kit, used rotors are an option, but the kit will contain the bearings, seals, and caliper brackets. I'd also buy new brake calipers and pads. Those lower control arms that eliminate the strut rods run about $269 a pair, so that is a fairly expensive upgrade.

 

oh that is an expensive upgrade. is tha t through heits?

 

I was wondering what the difference is between Heidt's and FatMan's IFS?