I would like to install dual oil pressure guages on a 1976 Ford F150 with a 390 FE. One will is currently the factory oil pressure guage and sensor that came OEM on FE engine and truck. The other is an aftermarket oil pressure guage with oil pressure hose (copper).

It definetly seems I will need a tee of some sort, one for the OEM oil guage and the other for the aftermarket guage.

Does anyone have pictures or suggestions on mounting an aftermarket oil pressure guage with oil pressure hose (copper) and where to find these parts?

I currently have the aftermarket guages (oil, voltage, water temp) and the copper tubing for oil to guage.

 

I did dual gauges on my truck. I've got a 73 F100 that has all factory gauges. For the oil pressure, install a tee where the factory sending unit is. If I remember correctly, it's 1/8" pipe thread. I have factory AC and it's a bit tight behind the brackets but you can fit the tee along with the factory sending unit and the plumbing to connect an aftermarket gauge. My aftermarket gauges are mechanical so I'm just connecting the oil line....I believe there would be room for another sending unit if you go electrical....personally I prefer the mechanical ones.

Good Luck!

Tracy

 

Yup, a simple pipe tee(either brass or metal) and install both. Local hardware store will have anything you need to do the install.

 

Will be looking for the tee connectors.

The kit has the compression fittings for the copper lines.

I was thinking maybe I should pull out the line flaring tool, and double flare the lines, thus preventing future leaks. Do you think this is necessary?

 

It's hard to successfully double flare copper without heating it pretty hot....it will usually crack (I'd say always but there'll be someone that can do it...lol). At any rate, a single flare is fine....I've still had trouble with copper cracking over time....it fatigue hardens and then cracks. You can create a vibration joint by circling the copper 2 or 3 rounds....this helps. Lot's of people don't like the plastic lines as they are easily damaged and they will melt if in the wrong place however I've had as good a luck with the plastic as the copper.

Tracy

 

I had to order the kit and got the copper tubing kit last night.
Tomorrow, I plan on wiring the guages, and upgrading the headlights to the relay system.
Good suggestion on circling the copper tubing in a coil. I plan on running headers and I thought copper was a safer than plastic. I have heard of the plastic tubing melting and cracking and causing problems.

 

using some stainless wire you can make a spring retainer and set up trelace clamps for the plastic tubing that will "help" with protection from heat, but the kink thing is just about a sure thing if not careful. I have a plastic setup..that may change..

 

I know you already have the guages, but I'd recommend going with electric rather than mechanical guages. I have a ruined, original radio from a 72 Mustang that was soaked down with oil when the guage line leaked. (Installed by a previous owner)

Later, when I redid the car, I went to elecrical guages. The stock cluster had idiot lights, so I T'eed the sensors and now have Oil, Tem and Volt guages with Oil, Temp and Alt warning lights. I also frenched a mini-tach into the cluster in the center of the warning lights. It's actually pretty cool.

 

I'd be interested in some picts and details on this (gauge brands-vendor, install difficulty) the like.. The new intake will not accept my aftermarket therm, and the oil line is a concern. And I'd like to get the football sized tach off the steering column it looks like POOP!

 

What I've done on a few motors is to run a braided-stainless hose from the block to the fenderwell, and from there to the gauge with copper (or even plastic) tubing.

I did this to my '01 V10 too... and ran plastic to the gauge. It was free, from my highboy, so I used it Otherwise, I'd use an electric gauge at this point in my life ...



That's my V10, but you get the idea...

 

krewat, would like to upgrade at a later time with the braided line.

For those wanting to do the dual setup.
You will need:
Qty: (1) 1/4" NPT (National Pipe Thread) close nipple, part number 43252 brand Motormite.
Qty: (1) 1/4" NPT (National Pipe Thread) pipe tee, part number 43018 brand Motormite.
and then use teflon tape to seal threads.

 

Here a picture of the 1/4" NPT close nipple mounted to the oil filter adapter,
on the a 390 FE engine, the 1/4" NPT pipe tee mounted with the oil tubing adapter,
for the oil line for the aftermarket oil guage.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...132491&width=0

Teflon work really good in sealing the threads.

 

Teflon tape and anodized fitting can cause false if any gauge
readings due to their insulating properties on a resistance system.
The safety alone from a line breaking on a mechanical gauge makes
electrical my choice hands down.

 

I found a shop, that makes high pressure stainless braided line.
I going to replace the copper tubing with the high pressure stainless braided line, its failsafe, and will hold up to some extreme high pressure, these are the same lines used for brake lines, but only smaller in diameter.

I had the shop make me stainless braided brake lines for all the rubber lines on my 1976, it made a big difference on the brake pedal feel and brake system.

This shop specializes in all types of high pressure lines and metal tubing.

 

Are those stainless brake lines DOT approved?