ok im brewing a plan...
i want to relocate the gas tank to the back, put a tilt column in, rebiuld(check) the front end, add disc brakes, power or manual toy steering, add new bench seat.
my plan(not a brainstorm) is to get all the parts then do all at once to limit done time.
can you guys hold my hand and tell me what to get and from where.

im looking in the graveyards for a mid 80's toy steering. power or manual i havent decided yet. looking for the bench seat here also.
can i get a used tank or dont bother and buy the new one?

i want to make sure i have a complete list of all parts i will need so i get all before i start. thanks!!!

 

 

I can offer a few suggestions. Definitely go with a new gas tank. not used. I think the 65-68 Mustang tank might be the ticket (see John's tech article in installation) and you should be able to buy one from one of the Mustang parts suppliers for between $150-$200. The column of choice seems to be GM (although I'm going to try and use a tilt out of an 87 New Yorker if it's the right length...haven't pulled it yet so I don't know). You need a column that's 32-33 inches long according to No-Limit Engineering. If you can afford one, the Flaming River column would be a good choice, but I have to go with a used one due to budget concerns. The bench seat of choice seems to be Ford Ranger or S-10. To get disc brakes, power steering, better handling and ride, an IFS would be your best bet. By the time you buy a disc brake kit, Toyota power steering kit, and replace king pins, bushings, brakes, etc, you might as well have gone with the IFS. This is just my opinion...

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 05-Jan-03 AT 09:43 AM (EST)]George

You should be able to pre-order all those items with one exception. I would defer the steering column until the rest is in place. Unless of course someone has performed the exact same mod on the same model and can provide the precise used column to use. This advice applies to Vern as well. We need a separate steering column thread some time too. Feel free to start one if you are so inclined. I have pictures you know!

There are two general strategies out there. One is try to find the perfect length that bolts straight to the steering box. Several challenges come with that. First you need the correct length column. If you are fortunate enough to find that, you will discover the shift linkage is now way too far into the engine compartment. Not a problem unless you want an automatic trans with column shift. Next issue is angle. You are limited in how much you can get away with at the steering box with an OEM coupler. Aftermarket joints are bad expensive. If you achieve a good angle at the box, you have to hope it places the steering at the proper distance from your fat belly inside the cab. It should be comfortable and you have the shifter handle to dash clearance issues. Don't underestimate that one. It gave me grief.

The next strategy is to use a shorter column. Not necessarily an expensive aftermarket column, a shorter OEM column can be used though they are harder to find. Now you can place the shift linkage where it belongs. You only have to get from the column to the box with linkage. The good news is you can use donor car pieces to build it. The added bonus is you can use an OEM style vibration damper and avoid the "my hands are going to sleep after an hour" problem. I think this is the best method.

The good news is Vern may be able to use method #2 with his Chrysler. I got rid of mine for typical 'fender reasons. The key is shaped like a Mopar key and is on the column. There is a big Chrysler emblem in the middle of my steering wheel and I hate it. You guys know me. I'm sure you understand.

'fenders

 

i should have thought slightly longer.... i didnt total all front-end components up to relize it might be close to the MII swap. ill have to try to crunch the #'s. the MII is close to 2k, will the disk brakes and toy steering and front end check-up be that much? i didnt know how much to budget for those. i was leaning towards the new column because i wanted floor shift and no key, i know that will be way $$$$. the seat sounds right, i was going to swallow a long shifter too to mimick the floor shift.(truck is an aoto). the tank will be new, i dont want the hassel of used for that. thanks!

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 05-Jan-03 AT 10:59 AM (EST)]I think you can do a MII for less than 2K, provided you look around for parts. You can still find upper and lower control arms, spindles, etc., in salvage yards or on Ebay although they are getting more scarce. There's a low buck brake kit you can get to fit the MII spindles for about $100 and you can get used 11 inch rotors. If you plan to use a floor shift and no key on the column, the Flaming River and other aftermarket columns aren't that bad (around $269). It's the column shift columns that are so expensive (over $400). Only thing is, by the time you spring for a Lokar or Gennie long shifter, you are back to over $400 again.


Fenders,

I don't care about using the Mopar key, but you have me concerned about the steering wheel. Surely, there are aftermarket steering wheels that will fit the Mopar column, right? I was just assuming that with the proper steering wheel adapter kit, that I could put just about any steering wheel on it I wanted. I don't want to be staring at that big Chrysler emblem either!

 

I saw a 50 Panel truck at the place where I purchased some parts for my truck. They were installing a Toyota box and a tilt column. The column was a 32" Ididit column. Speedway Motors sells this column for $249,that's the best price I found for a 32" column. I don't remember how they were attaching it to the Toyota box though. Probably aftermarket u joints. I got my new Mustang tank from EBay for $120. There is a guy on there that has them all the time.

 

ill keepn looking for the parts. where on ebay was the tank? was it a tank or tank and parts? tha MII components are too hard to find aroujnd here so i was pricing the complete kits from the manufactureres.
my priorities are this...
1. brakes
2. steering
3. front end replace or rebiuld
4. column
the tank at any time with thwe seats
is this wrong?

 

Vern

I am sure you can adapt a Chrysler column with a Grant adapter. I don't think $400 will take George near all the way if he uses mostly new parts. Here is what you need (new or used)

column
upper column drop
lower column mount
1 or 2 joints
steering wheel
wheel adapter
horn kit
floor shifter or column linkage kit

I used a 30" Flaming River column shift (28" might have worked), billet drop and floor mount, lokar linkage, one borg joint and a homebrew Cadillac vibration damper. One reworked used Grant Wheel. I love it but I have $700 in it as I recall. Only my engine cost me more. I did not want to spend that kind of cash but I wasted a lot of time jacking with worn out used stuff before I gave up.

'fenders

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 05-Jan-03 AT 09:18 PM (EST)]Fenders,

Thanks. I may buy an upper column drop, a steering wheel adapter, and possibly a lower column mount (although I've fabricated my own upper and lower column mount in other cars), but that's about it. I think I can fabricate the steering and column shift linkage since I've done that before. I already have an old steering wheel, so I won't have nearly what you have in the column and wheel. If I wind up with more than a C note in my column and steering, I'll be surprised. My "budget" truck will be a daily driver and work truck...not a show truck...at first anyway. Maybe sometime in the future if I win the lottery or something I'll change my mind.

 

The place on EBay that sells the Mustang tank is an EBay store called Northcoast Mustang Supply Co. The tank is complete with the pick up and sender.

 

Vern


I was actually quoting prices for George as he expressed interest in buying some new stuff. He'll have an easier time than you but his wallet will be lighter too.

You will want to check the joint angle at the box before you decide how much to drop it. That is the only likely trouble spot with what you are doing. You can pull it off but it will be close. About 3 1/2 drop looks pretty good and might just relieve the bind enough. Of course I am in a 53 anyway, maybe your angle will be a bit less severe. You sure want to avoid buying Borg joints if you can. You can fab the lower mount.

'fenders

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 06-Jan-03 AT 07:39 PM (EST)]thanks fellas! im still ponderind the question of what to do. its more money then i thought.

how did you find that co? i went to ebay and typed in the name of the co and it came ujp blank.. i am coputewr dumb sorry

 

To find the ebay store go to EBay home page and look at "specialty sites". Click on EBay stores. Type in the store name for the store search, then click below the name in the "search store name and description"line, then click "search store" box. This brings up the store name which you click on and it takes you to the site.

 

These guys have pretty good prices.http://www.gastanks.com/