Batteries question.
#1
#2
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Recently bought two Kirkland 1000CCA's at COSTCO for my 91' F350.
I used to swear on the Sears DIHARD when they were still manufacturered by Johnson Controls. I still got a set of DIHARD's I bought in 2000 in my 93' F250. The new DIHARD's are junk. I put one in my wifes Windstar and it caused me grief for two years as it would intermittently drain and the Van would not start. My wife was ready to buy a new van until I eventually got Sears to replace the battery evenso it passed all the load tests. Note, I installed a new altinator, regulator, cables, clean connection, starter, etc.. before I finally concluded that it had to be the battery that was causing all the grief.
Turns out that the Kirkland Batteries are now made by Johnson Controls. I paid about $CDN 150 ($US 135) c/w all the taxes, environmental levies etc... for both batteries. A steal if you ask me.
Seb....
I used to swear on the Sears DIHARD when they were still manufacturered by Johnson Controls. I still got a set of DIHARD's I bought in 2000 in my 93' F250. The new DIHARD's are junk. I put one in my wifes Windstar and it caused me grief for two years as it would intermittently drain and the Van would not start. My wife was ready to buy a new van until I eventually got Sears to replace the battery evenso it passed all the load tests. Note, I installed a new altinator, regulator, cables, clean connection, starter, etc.. before I finally concluded that it had to be the battery that was causing all the grief.
Turns out that the Kirkland Batteries are now made by Johnson Controls. I paid about $CDN 150 ($US 135) c/w all the taxes, environmental levies etc... for both batteries. A steal if you ask me.
Seb....
Last edited by Hamberger; 08-28-2006 at 01:41 PM.
#5
i used to run interstate in everything but i don't have the 100 bucks a piece for them right now so i'm going to put in a set of chepes and hope for the best. I'm going to be putting a plow on and they say plows eat up batteries anyway so i might as well keep on putting in the cheap ones.
#7
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#8
i bought a set last night for 38 dollars a piece with exchange. there 1,050CCA seems to really wake her up a bit. Now i have another question. seems that now i change the batteries the i'll hear a clicking noiseafter the engine start. it'll go "click,click,for about 10 sec. Is that just the glow plug controller? Does that mean it's going bad? Also, what kind of glow plugs are you guys using. What's the best for a fair price? I still think she has a few weak ones it still seems to have to crank a little longer than i would like.
#9
Odyssey Battery
Does anyone here run odyssey dry cell batteries? Just wondering I saw them at a truck show one time and they seemed to have a wide variety of products.
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/
#10
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Batteries can make a real difference. I make it a point to change them every 8 to 10 years whether that start to go bad or not.
The clicking noise you are hearing is your glow plug controller and it is working.
The other thing to check if your glow plugs are working properly is to see how long the "Wait to Start" light stays on. If it cold out and the engine is cold it should stay on up to 20 seconds. For temperature above 32F it should only stay on about 5-10 seconds. If it comes on and immediately turns off then you most likely got a bad glowplug.
Personally I have never had a "weak" plug. In my experience the plugs either work or they don't. Just run a quick check on all of them with a 12V Test light. Here is the procedure. Again in my experience plugs last for about 60k miles and should all be changed after that.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...=1#post3548618
I figure your latest starting problems are probably fuel system related. Go heavy on the additive, they can make a world of difference.
Best of luck and keep those IDI rattling,
Seb.....
The clicking noise you are hearing is your glow plug controller and it is working.
The other thing to check if your glow plugs are working properly is to see how long the "Wait to Start" light stays on. If it cold out and the engine is cold it should stay on up to 20 seconds. For temperature above 32F it should only stay on about 5-10 seconds. If it comes on and immediately turns off then you most likely got a bad glowplug.
Personally I have never had a "weak" plug. In my experience the plugs either work or they don't. Just run a quick check on all of them with a 12V Test light. Here is the procedure. Again in my experience plugs last for about 60k miles and should all be changed after that.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...=1#post3548618
I figure your latest starting problems are probably fuel system related. Go heavy on the additive, they can make a world of difference.
Best of luck and keep those IDI rattling,
Seb.....
#11
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Aaron,
Never heard of the Odessey battery till now. I am always skeptical about trying new things like that unless I have references from lots of experienced users.
What you want for the IDI is the largest CCA rated battery you can fit in your truck that will deliver the rated CCA for as long as possible. I noticed that the Odessey only delivers the high CCA for a very short time, which is probably not enough.
On a really cold day the glow plug controller will draw huge amps for up to 20 seconds before you even get to crank the engine over. You need a battery that will consistantly produce the rated CCA and not drop off.
Seb......
Never heard of the Odessey battery till now. I am always skeptical about trying new things like that unless I have references from lots of experienced users.
What you want for the IDI is the largest CCA rated battery you can fit in your truck that will deliver the rated CCA for as long as possible. I noticed that the Odessey only delivers the high CCA for a very short time, which is probably not enough.
On a really cold day the glow plug controller will draw huge amps for up to 20 seconds before you even get to crank the engine over. You need a battery that will consistantly produce the rated CCA and not drop off.
Seb......
#12
#13
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A lot of people I know tend to change one plug at a time. This is a bad way of doing things in my mind and I know from personal experience with my Dads 92 that you will be chasing your tail forever changing plugs due to the resistance imbalance between the new and old plugs.
Yes, get yourself to a new baseline and put in eight brand new "BERU" Plugs that say "MADE IN GERMANY" right on the body of the plug. DO NOT PUT IN ANY OTHER PLUG.
This will give you your best change at a reliable glow plug system that will last for 60k miles or more. And yes, you could still get a bad new plug, but the chances of that are slim.
I am told Autozone has them in the US for about $9.99 a piece.
I know of only one place in all of Western Canada that has them, a company in Maple Ridge. Email me and I will send you the contact. I paid almost $200 CDN for ten plugs about a year ago.
Yes, get yourself to a new baseline and put in eight brand new "BERU" Plugs that say "MADE IN GERMANY" right on the body of the plug. DO NOT PUT IN ANY OTHER PLUG.
This will give you your best change at a reliable glow plug system that will last for 60k miles or more. And yes, you could still get a bad new plug, but the chances of that are slim.
I am told Autozone has them in the US for about $9.99 a piece.
I know of only one place in all of Western Canada that has them, a company in Maple Ridge. Email me and I will send you the contact. I paid almost $200 CDN for ten plugs about a year ago.
#14
#15
Originally Posted by d_stange
i used to run interstate in everything but i don't have the 100 bucks a piece for them right now so i'm going to put in a set of chepes and hope for the best. I'm going to be putting a plow on and they say plows eat up batteries anyway so i might as well keep on putting in the cheap ones.
good luck
tom