Garage & Workshop Tips & Ideas for the garage or workshop. No Truck Tech Discussion   

adding refrigeration to truck bed?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 07-30-2006, 09:43 PM
mzimmers's Avatar
mzimmers
mzimmers is offline
Elder User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Cupertino, CA
Posts: 544
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
adding refrigeration to truck bed?

Hi, all -

I haven't been around much lately, mostly because I've been getting ready to go hunting (my newest hobby) this summer.

One thing that every warm-climate hunter seems to struggle with is keeping the harvested game cool while transporting it from the field to the meat processor, a trip that can commonly last several hours. Given my penchant for outrageous projects, I started thinking about a way to add cooling to the truck bed for keeping meet cool during this trip.

Any opinions on the viability/effectiveness/efficiency of adding some form of refrigeration to the truck bed? I'm thinking of some cooling coils (and a pump, of course) mounted below a platform, and a fan to blow across the coils. As I think of it, I suppose I could even put a small commercial refrigerator in the bed, providing that it can be laid down with the door opening up. I'm obviously just spitballing on ideas here, but I'm curious about what the garage and workshop cognoscenti might think of such an idea.

I already have a healthy power inverter in the bed of the truck, so there's plenty of electricity available. Any fancy ideas?
 
  #2  
Old 07-30-2006, 09:51 PM
havi's Avatar
havi
havi is offline
I'll have the Roast Duck
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Northshore, MN
Posts: 9,600
Received 45 Likes on 28 Posts
small chest freezer mounted in the front of the bed. Voltage inverter mounted somewhere out of the way. I think Cabellas already sells 12 volt coolers, though. Fortunately for me, I live in cold country, and hunting season doesn't start til Sept. Which, may I add, can't wait.
 
  #3  
Old 07-30-2006, 10:05 PM
fellro86's Avatar
fellro86
fellro86 is offline
Hotshot
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Marengo, Iowa
Posts: 11,697
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Find an old veterinary box, they are refrigeratedwith all kind of storage room and access, and removeable.
 
  #4  
Old 07-30-2006, 11:38 PM
Crash687's Avatar
Crash687
Crash687 is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: MI
Posts: 1,321
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by mzimmers
I suppose I could even put a small commercial refrigerator in the bed, providing that it can be laid down with the door opening up. I'm obviously just spitballing on ideas here, but I'm curious about what the garage and workshop cognoscenti might think of such an idea.
If a cooler is designed to sit upright, the refrigeration systems oil will not be in the right place in the compressor if you lay it down, also the way the coils and piping are arranged so that oil will not get trapped within the tubing.

Idea: small chest style freezer and a honda generator(cause they are quite).
 
  #5  
Old 07-31-2006, 06:13 AM
Fordzlla's Avatar
Fordzlla
Fordzlla is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ontario, canada
Posts: 800
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
How about a window mount air conditioner with the thermostat swapped out for one that goes a bit colder? It could be built into an insulated box that slides into the bed camper- style.

I've seen trailers rigged up like this for use as portable coolers for catering.
 
  #6  
Old 08-04-2006, 06:03 PM
Birdhunter1's Avatar
Birdhunter1
Birdhunter1 is offline
Cargo Master
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Murphysboro, IL
Posts: 2,538
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes on 16 Posts
Window a/c's are no different from home a/c in the fact that they are designed to cool an area within a set temperature range, so swapping the thermosts out for one that will go colder will not work because it will cause the evaporator coil to freeze up. Basicaly there is a heat exchange between teh air and the refrigerant at the evap. coil, the refrigerant is usally 25-30 degrees cooler than the return air temp (provided unit has been running and conditioning the space) so if you are trying to use an a/c unit to cool and area cooler than it is designed it will cause the refrigeration temps to dip close to or below the freezing point of water and it will cause the condensation to freeze on the coil.

Freezers, refrigerators, and coolers account for this and have a defrost system in them.
 
  #7  
Old 08-04-2006, 10:28 PM
frederic's Avatar
frederic
frederic is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 6,214
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
If you want to buy something that exists, here are two of many choices:

http://store.altenergystore.com/Ener...source=froogle

http://www.bigfrogmountain.com/engel/Engel%2065.htm

Since you have an inverter, you could just buy a top-door meat freezer and plug it in. We have one in the basement, and it's smaller than a refrigerator turned on it's side.

Another option is to acquire a top door freezer, and remove the electric motor and install a pulley, a belt, to a 3.5HP B&S gas engine you pull off a mower someone tossed to the curb.

Many ways of doing this. Personally, I'd not bother trying to run cooling lines, condensers, and other parts when you can buy a nicely insulated freezer and have significantly less aggrevation.
 
  #8  
Old 08-04-2006, 11:29 PM
Fordzlla's Avatar
Fordzlla
Fordzlla is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ontario, canada
Posts: 800
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Birdhunter1
Window a/c's are no different from home a/c in the fact that they are designed to cool an area within a set temperature range, so swapping the thermosts out for one that will go colder will not work because it will cause the evaporator coil to freeze up. Basicaly there is a heat exchange between teh air and the refrigerant at the evap. coil, the refrigerant is usally 25-30 degrees cooler than the return air temp (provided unit has been running and conditioning the space) so if you are trying to use an a/c unit to cool and area cooler than it is designed it will cause the refrigeration temps to dip close to or below the freezing point of water and it will cause the condensation to freeze on the coil.

Freezers, refrigerators, and coolers account for this and have a defrost system in them.
A defrost timer can be added easily. A simple timer set to turn the unit off for a 30minutes to an hour every 6-12 hours would probably do it. If your using a generator then run it 4 hours on / 4 off or something similar
 
  #9  
Old 08-04-2006, 11:32 PM
Ford_Six's Avatar
Ford_Six
Ford_Six is offline
Hotshot
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: The Big, Oregon
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes on 15 Posts
Man, way too complex. Make an insulated box in the bed, use 2" foam sheet (you can glue, stack, and carve this stuff to make it look good too), build in a small second section vented to the main chamber with two 12v computer fans at the bottom, and small vent at the top into the main chamber, put as large a block of dry ice in there as you can fit, plug in the fans, and let it circulate. This can be done without the fans, but there will be a larger temperature difference between the ends of the main chamber.
 
  #10  
Old 08-05-2006, 12:52 AM
Bdox's Avatar
Bdox
Bdox is offline
Fleet Owner

Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Posts: 28,609
Received 12 Likes on 11 Posts
Boats have refrigeration units that are adapted to all sorts of strange shapes and spaces.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...man/asc/0/grid
It can be pricey.

Also look at Boats U.S.
 
  #11  
Old 08-05-2006, 06:23 AM
fellro86's Avatar
fellro86
fellro86 is offline
Hotshot
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Marengo, Iowa
Posts: 11,697
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by frederic
Another option is to acquire a top door freezer, and remove the electric motor and install a pulley, a belt, to a 3.5HP B&S gas engine you pull off a mower someone tossed to the curb.
Biggest problem here is the the compressor isn't belt driven, they are direct drive. The motor is encased in a steel housing with the compressor immersed in the refrigerant oil.
 
  #12  
Old 08-05-2006, 09:30 PM
frederic's Avatar
frederic
frederic is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 6,214
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Originally Posted by fellro86
Biggest problem here is the the compressor isn't belt driven, they are direct drive. The motor is encased in a steel housing with the compressor immersed in the refrigerant oil.
Aaaaah. Mine is belt driven, hence my idea

I know this because I had to replace the belt last april. Oh well!
 
  #13  
Old 08-06-2006, 06:35 AM
Greg 79 f150's Avatar
Greg 79 f150
Greg 79 f150 is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2,848
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by Ford_Six
Man, way too complex. Make an insulated box in the bed, use 2" foam sheet (you can glue, stack, and carve this stuff to make it look good too), build in a small second section vented to the main chamber with two 12v computer fans at the bottom, and small vent at the top into the main chamber, put as large a block of dry ice in there as you can fit, plug in the fans, and let it circulate. This can be done without the fans, but there will be a larger temperature difference between the ends of the main chamber.

Wow, great idea sixman,

What if a person just stopped by the local recycle center and picked up a old chestype freezer for free , avoiding the labor /costs of building one ? The weight would help for rear end traction it seems to me when offroading, pu/s are bad for light rear ends losing traction.


On edit.
Just a reminder for this good thread for hunters. Whenever using or building anything airtight for refrigeration large enough for a child to get in to, there is a danger of children playing in them and getting suffocated. This is one of the reasons we have a law here for our trashed refrigerators being put on the streets. All doors must be removed before putting them out on the curb for city pickup.
 

Last edited by Greg 79 f150; 08-06-2006 at 07:03 AM.
  #14  
Old 08-06-2006, 08:22 PM
fellro86's Avatar
fellro86
fellro86 is offline
Hotshot
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Marengo, Iowa
Posts: 11,697
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
I haven't seen any regular fridges and freezers with a belt drive yet, just commercial units on occasion. I recycle appliances, and take the compressors off, split them and separate the parts, copper windings on the electric motor, press the crank out, and separate the cast iron and aluminum.
 
  #15  
Old 08-07-2006, 05:26 PM
Fordzlla's Avatar
Fordzlla
Fordzlla is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ontario, canada
Posts: 800
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You want simple??
We've cooled a moose carcass down by covering the truck bed with a wet bedsheet then driving around slowly to get the water to evaporate.

Stop for appropriate beverage....rewet the bedsheet (with water :-)) , continue driving. Our huntcamp has enough bush roads around it to do this for several hours without ever meeting any traffic.
 


Quick Reply: adding refrigeration to truck bed?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:31 PM.