Spoken like a true sufferer of PMS!!

BTW, this thread has been unbelievable. It's catching up rapidly to the Sticky "Common Mods" thread...

 

Wife and I made a run down to the Houston Medical Center today. What a freaking madhouse.

98* temp, 90% humidity for a feels like temp of 105. She said she liked the A/C comfort mod and was glad we did that one.

I had it so cold you could've hung meat in the cab. Blizzard like conditions.

 

I was driving through Las Vegas at 110* and had my rear windows cracked about two inches because it was TOO cold in the cab!

 

This is a great thread! Thanks everyone

 

Finally done mine. Holy cow I didn't expect it to work this good. It's so cold in the cab that I think I froze my ***** off. One of the most bang for the buck mods I've done.......

 

I get your point and where I live it is also either HOT!! or cold. So this was just a really easy inexpensive way to see if it would really make a difference. and it sure did!! You can't have cold enough A/C where I live!! And another plus is it just cools the cab so much quicker.
Don't know if I'll go ahead and order the DS kit or not but for now I'm just gonna see how the manual valve works out. If it becomes a PITA once Temps cool down then the DS kit gets ordered.

JB

 

i just put the Dieselsite kit in, 20 min, and done, i havent tested it yet , but will next saturday, on my way to BTS

 

What size and type of shut off vavle should i use if i just want to doo the manual type?

 

An old trick to help keep an engine from overheating is to turn on the heater. I guess the heater core acts as another radiator. My wifes Explorer started to overheat just the other day. Needle was almost to the H before we noticed. Switched on the heater and the guage dropped back to mid range. Still not sure why it started to overheat since it hasn't done it since. Thermostate, or needs flushing maybe? Mind you, turning the heat on when its already almost 90 degrees make things a bit miserable. Anyway, I like the tie in to the A/C controls for this reason. That is, being able to route the collant to the heater core on the fly.

 

The DieselSite kit only shuts the flow of coolant off to the heater core when MAX A/C is selected. If you use any other position the coolant still goes to the heater core. That way you can still try that overheating trick if you had to but I seriously doubt that it would have any effect on our trucks if they were overheating. Too much coolant, too big a motor and too little a heater core.

 

You're gonna love it. Yesterday we were at the lake (98* with 80% humidity) and when I went to pluck the jet skis out of the water to go home I backed the truck down the ramp, set the high idle on and switched to Max A/C and then set it in park while I winched the skis up on to the trailer. By the time I got back in it was nice and cool and before we left the marina it was blowing so cold that the kids were complaining that it was too cold. I explained that in Texas there is no such thing as "too cold" or "too much A/C".

 

What type of shut off valve do you use to withstand the heat. Brass would be heavy and bulky.

 

Some like white line some like red. Some guys get different results depending on year,
factory setups etc. Now that Im not sure exactly what it'll be like when done,
what's the harm in trying both red and white to see what I like best. The fittings cost under a buck. Someone suggested possible vacuum leaks. I have the kit and Im fealing brave.

 

This is a very very common remod to install 1/4 brass valves in line at or near the heater core . Interupting the flow alltogether. This is also a portion of the FORD Ambulance prep package from the factory for emergency vehicle chassis. We shut the valves off in spring and turn them on in December when it gets cold. Manually underhood. Great thinkin guys

 

After reading all these post last night it got me thinking, I know that is always scary but I remember the device you guys are all looking for and it is called a Vacuum Solenoid. What it is is a small electric motor that shuts down a vacuum line much like the heater valve shuts down the water line. I was able to locate a couple of them on the internet, one sold for 16.95 and the other one I have not been able to get a price for but I have Summit Racing checking on a price for me. It is sold by Hot Rod Air, part #92-0001, this the address to their catalog online. http://www.hotrodair.com/index.cfm/p...rod/prd172.htm The solenoid would go inline in the vacuum line to the heater control valve when you splice into the red vacuum line and a small switch could be hid just about anywhere that would control power to the solenoid. this would allow you to have arctic a/c, cool vent air and warm bi-level air just by activating a small switch from the driver's seat. My heater control valve will be in on monday and I will be installing it with a vacuum soleniod as I want cool vent air now and warm Bi-level air to darn soon here on the mountain. Hope this helps some you looking for the best of both worlds as I am.

Dave