So I bought a 79 f-250 with a 400 and 4x4 for $500.00 2 weeks ago. The previous owner told me all it needed was the exhaust and the front brake line hooked up which he included. I thought no problem hook the brake line up find some exhaust and boom got a decent running truck as toy.

First let me tell you about me and where i live. I am 23 years old work as a project manager for a construction company and bust my *** to pay my bills (Like who dosent) I am currently living in an apartment building complex very high class I pay 1400 a month for a 2 bedroom apartment. RIP OFF CAN'T WAIT TO MOVE OUT AND HOPEFULLY BUY A HOUSE THIS FALL Most of my neighbors cars are New or newer. So draging this truck home dosent really fit in. We have a back gravel lot for overflow parking as well as storage of boats etc. This lot is where I plan on doing most of the fixing of my truck.
But I get a lot of grief about it. I have no garage so most of my work has to be setup and cleaned up everytime i do something. Nor do i have power in this lot. So everthing has to be done after work or on weekends when its 90 plus degrees

Getting to the problems.
My first thought after buying the truck was to tackle the brakes. But this has had it problems

First brake problem I noticed after starting was the banjo bolts were missing. After driving to every auto parts store in a 20 mile radius and spending half a day looking I found them in a junkyard about 45 mins away. And they where off a 94 ecocline van and one was on a 93 f150. Yet no autoparts store had these i couldnt believe it

Second brake problem Once the banjo bolts were on I started to bend the line which was given to me by the old owner. The one side fit on the caliper but the fitting on the other side was wrong. I tried goind to a few auto parts stores as well as lowes hoping to find a reducer or something else no luck 2 days later a friend of mine who works at a NAPA got me the part. So after work one night we finished hooking the line up.

Third brake Problem. Now the line is hooked up (feeling like im finally getting something acomplised after spending time hunting down parts and draging my tools out of my car and jacking the truck up 4 times only to have it up in the air for an hour before i realize I need another part and have to pack everything up so I can go to another store. ) I proceed to bleed the front brake calipers. BOOM another problem The bleeders are stuck in the calipers one brakes off and the hole is rusted up. The other is just plain stuck. ARRRRGGG Another 120 bucks spent on capliers and pads with another 2 day wait for parts.

Finally Wednesday I got the brakes fixed.

Next issue. EXHAUST

First. After speaking on the phone with 3 different shops all of which said id have to bring the truck to them (another 75.00 towing bill) As well as that the cheapest they could do anything for is between 350-500 without the cat.
For a truck That I plan on using as a winter beater (My company truck 2000 silverado isnt 4x4 and my personal car 05 mustang gt dosent like snow) I wasnt planing on spending this much on exhaust at least not right now nor did I wanna spend it on a truck i paid 500 for. (Im a Cheap *** plus im broke lol)

Second I started junkyard hunting a found a You pull it junkyard about an hour away from my house that said they had a few trucks there that might have the exhaust still on it.
So after leaving work early on friday I headed up there bringing my tools. After paying th 2 dollar entrance fee I looked around and found a truck that had some decent enough exhaust on it. but of course both bolts on the manifold on both sides were rusted on I tried unbolting the manifold and dropping the both out from under the truck. No Luck they hit the firewall So all greasie and grimey and soaked in swet I head back the hour drive in rush hour traffic which took about an hour and 30 mins.

Thrid
Yesterday I decided to borrow a friends battery sawzall I headed back up to the yard paid the 2 dollars to get in. And started on the bolts. Well the outside ones were easy to get to but the inside ones were impossible to reach . I tried cutting the mainfold in half after spending an hour tring to reach the bolts. Finally I gave up on the malifold got some og the driver side bolt then snaped it off with a a socket by now the batter in the sawzall was dead and I still had another bolt to cut I was just about to give up when i decided to try once more with socket. And wam all of a sundd it came off I was Happy as hell. I spent another 10 mins getting the thing out of the truck and paid 10 bucks and headed home. Now with the Y pipe I need and a few feet of pipe I figured Id beabl to stick an extra muffler I had on and rock and roll.

Fourth
I get home calla few buddies up w head out to the truck start to jack it up so we canslip the exhaust on. When I stick my hand on the manifold and realize someone tourched off the studs when the took the old exhaust off my truck. I thn decided to unbolt my mainfolds the see if I could possiby get the studs out with vise grips or maybe have them drilled and tapped. The drivers side bolts on the manifold are all rounded off and now Im afriad to break them off in the block.

Fifth
While working on the pass side of the mainfold my buddy knocked off a socket wrench sitting on the top of th grill The wrench hit the radiator which then caused the radiator to spring a leak.


So now Im just in a great mood. I dunno what to do next. What would keep cost down. What is the best move should I save up buy headers and get the exhaust done at a shop? Should I find some manifolds and just finish putting together what I have? Should I buy a parts truck I saw for 200 hundred bucks with a 351 in it and just grab parts off of it? Like the radiator?


Im sorry this went on for ever I just needed to get it all out Im just furious and cant think straight till i figure out what im gonna do. It just seems like everytime I get somewhere on the truck I find out I have gone 2 steps back.

 

Well here's the Scoop

I have suffered the same ordeal as you many times and have so much empathy for you right now it hurts.

All I can say is to grit your teeth and firmly believe that one day things will be better & get easier.

If you can ....find someone that can hang out with you while working on the truck.

I know things can get tough when you work alone.

You could always bring that 79 4x4 up here to me and I'll "wave my hand over it" to give it some good karma.Then if you decide to move on to another truck ..the 79 will be in a "Good Place"


There........I hope I have brightened your day !

 

Hang in there Scoop, the only way to avoid the problems you are having is to buy a new, or more expensive truck! Also remember, once you fix it right, you won't have to fix it again, for a long time anyway.
-D

 

Hang in there Scoop. We have all been there - or most of us have anyway. Those of use here haven't been there will be sooner, or later.
It IS worth it!
You might try spending a little more money on the parts you need, such as a replacement manifold. If it doesn't cost you too much, then the time you save is well worth it.

Good luck!

PS: Where are you in PA? There probably is someone nearby who can help!

 

I learned that being "cheap" costs more. Spend the money and buy the right parts. It will cost less in the long run. Whatever an exhaust shop chages is worth it. It sure beats wasting time and gas on junk yard hunting. Now 1400/month for rent? What were you thinking when you signed that lease.... You could buy 3 trucks a month with that kind of money.

 

I work at a napa, and for a replacement manifold, it cost about $150($100 w/ my discount). Where is the radiator leaking? I busted a seam on one of mine, and had a radiator shop weld it together for $45.
I bought some summit headers for $90 and got my exhaust put on for $180, 2.5" duals from header collectors w/12" backwards glass packs and 18" long 3.5" chrome tips.
So grand total of $270.
Find a little muffler shop(they should be cheaper).

Not to cause more work for you, but you might want to take off your front rotors and bring them to a Napa, or any place that can grind them down for you.
Every time you replace the pads you need to grind down the rotors, or get new rotors-get new pads(change one, change the other type of thing).

I've thought about a parts truck, but don't have alot of room like you, and don't know the condition of any of the parts, and not sure of the price either.
IF I buy a late 70s truck in great mechanical condition, but bodys gone, I think then would be a good time to buy a rust free parts truck(which I could easily get a few). I'd cost me the same to buy the parts truck as it would one new body panel.

 

Hang in there! When your buds come to "help", hide the beer and pizza 'till the tools are put away. LOL Past that, P-Blaster is man's best friend. Construction hmm... there should be someone around with a torch, get some help with those stuck bolts.

The location is a big problem, I've lost countless hours to eluding the code ***** of one municipality. Not having that problem has improved my attitude ten-fold. I can only imagine having some HOA or management company following you around, worried about thier over inflated property values.

You need a mantra:
When I'm done it's paid for...
When I'm done, it will get me outta this ****-retentive ghetto...

 

Hang in there Scoop! But for $500...it is going to need WORK...and it might be a lot. I would imagine a good $1500-$2000+ invested into your truck...and it could be a solid runner.

I agree with other posting here...if you go cheap...expect cheap. Doing the work yourself saves money, but not buying used worn parts. Remember...TIME is money too. If you are going to do something...do it right the first time...and that way you have the confidence knowing it will last.

The brake rotors should be turned. That is a MUST! Safety is key here. Did you pull the rear drums and check? Again...safety is key here.

IMHO...with the 400...you should just purchase headers. Will help the engine get those fumes out quickly and improve performance. Then go with a 2.5" dual exhaust setup or a single 3". Flowmaster does have universal kits...so may want to check the website.

Make sure to go and change all the fluids...start fresh...and know what you have. Heck...you should do a COMPLETE tune up too.

If you are going to replace the radiator, then get the 4 core right off. Again...just do it once...and do it right.

Hope these suggestions help some...and keep coming back to FTE...WE will help all we can!

biz

_______________________________
1976 F150 LWB 390FE NP435 NP205 4x4 3.50s

 

Hang in there bud. It's bound to get better. As for the parts truck, is it a 4x4 also? There might be a difference between manifolds from 2 to 4 wheel drive? Also make sure the 351 isn't a Windsor as it has different manifolds. But a 351m manifolds should go right on. Try heating the manifold bolts before trying to get them out. I agree about turning the rotors but if they can't be turned be sure that when you get new ones you specify which ones you have. Ford used both a single piston and a dual piston caliper and the rotors are different. But they are a little spendier than other rotors as you get the whole hub so that means new bearings and races also. I tried to put a 63 390 in a 76 F250 that had a blown 360 in it. I got the trans on and got it all dropped into place and when I went under to bolt up the motor mounts there weren't any holes. That's when I found out that the pre 65 fe motors only had one set of mount holes designed for cars and the later ones had 2 sets one for cars and one for trucks. I ended up unbolting the mounts from the frame bolting them to the motor then setting the whole thing in the frame. lining everything up square with the world and welding the mounts back to the frame. Don't give up it'll be a good winter truck when done. As for your rent I can't help but good luck with that too.

 

MBBquote:

Every time you replace the pads you need to grind down the rotors, or get new rotors-get new pads(change one, change the other type of thing).


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
sorry MBB

Actually this isn't quite true.

It's the terminology.

I'm sure you meant .....

The proper term being Re-surface the rotors.

Not necessarily *grind down* (aka: Turn-down the rotors with a lathe)
Rotor only usually get turned after thay have warped slightly or been gouged by the pad plates.


The pads & rotors should have a fresh surface to meet each other.

Rotors can be scuffed with an emery tool or a special scuffer that is available.

Scoop.... Calipers

Those calipers you bought were way too expensive.
You have been able to get a set of front pads & 2 calipers for about $50.00


Exhaust:
A compete set of duals with mufflers shouldn't have cost more than $300.00 installed at a muffler shop.

E. Manifolds/ Studs
It is always easier and more efficient to remove the head to remove broke off studs.
ALWAYS....
It may cost more because of gasket sets, etc but you will save time and aggrevation by taking them out.

E Manifolds is one tricky area.
To Go new or screw around with possibly getting something that's cracked without you knowing it.

Headers have their own idiosyncrisies.

1)They can cause starters to fail
2)Cheap ones look ugly when the paint comes off and the rust takes over a few years down the road ... Headers ? Go Ceramic coat.

 

At napa we all call it grinding.
When in fact if the rotors aren't warped, like you said it should be turn-down the rotors.
I've yet so see some rotors that weren't warped at work while doing a break job(another reason why I don't use that term)... most people now adays really abuse their trucks.

 

You do not need to have your rotors turned down or re-surfaced when you put pads on. Everyone has different opinions on this. If they aren't rustpitted or glazed over or warped you can actually just put pads on. Done it hundreds of times with no problems. Re-surfacing the rotors on a brake lathe takes material off making them thinner which can later lead to warping and improper heat dissipation. Like stated by Mil1ion scuffing is better. Brake lathes also put a directional cut on the rotor and you want a non-directional cut like a new rotor, just like the idea of cross-hatch? on cylinder walls. There is way too much info on whether to cut rotors or not. I'm actually tired of reading about it. I work in a brake and exhaust shop so we always see new articles on brakes.

 

My rotors had a tiny bit of surface rust and one rotor even had a little groove in it from the pad wearing out completely and the piston grinding into it. I thought about resurfacing them but ended up just popping on new pads to see if it worked. After a little use they work fine, haven't had a single problem and it's almost been a year since I did it. This was when I first got the truck and it had been sitting for a year. Never heard about resurfacing when replacing pads though...

 

Ever hear of glazing ?

a rotor so shiny you can pluck your eyebrows in the reflection.

A Glazed rotor is an accident waiting for a place to happen.

Glazed rotors are a result putting new pads on un-touched (not scuffed or resurfaced) used rotors.

I have to wonder why anyone would take that chance ...against the relatively low cost of insuring safety

 

I've never heard of glazing, but I do agree with you on the cost of safety.