54 239 value
#1
54 239 value
I know this isn't the classifieds...I just wanted to know if the 239 out of my 54 efie had any value? My truck was to far apart to go back original so I don't need the motor. It would only be good for a builder the heads were off when I got it. and none of the pullies were with the truck ( nightmare to find for the 239 eh)
Thanks for any input...
Thanks for any input...
#3
It's one of those deals where, to a person trying faithfully to restore their '54 or '55 to original (or keep a 239 running), a spare 239 is worth something...but to just about everyone else, it's scrap.
I think someone here, a while back, tried to sell a 239 cheap, or even give it away, & had no takers, locally, in the forums, or the classifieds.
As you say, the front end pieces like the pulleys, pump, etc. would be more valuable than the heads & block, probably. Good luck-
I think someone here, a while back, tried to sell a 239 cheap, or even give it away, & had no takers, locally, in the forums, or the classifieds.
As you say, the front end pieces like the pulleys, pump, etc. would be more valuable than the heads & block, probably. Good luck-
#4
Join Date: Jul 2001
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Altho my first post was partially tongue in cheek, I have never even been able to give away a 239. Or a truck 4spd for that matter.
However the crank may be of interest to someone wanting to destroke a 292 inorder to get in a lower racing class and eat up little Chebbies. This will make for a real screamer.
Also the rods are the same as on all except the 312 and HD292 and worth holding on to. Lifters are the same and can be resurfaced and used on a new cam.
However the crank may be of interest to someone wanting to destroke a 292 inorder to get in a lower racing class and eat up little Chebbies. This will make for a real screamer.
Also the rods are the same as on all except the 312 and HD292 and worth holding on to. Lifters are the same and can be resurfaced and used on a new cam.
#5
Thanks for the suggestions!!! I may keep some of the goddies as merc suggested and toss the rest. I wish I could have gone back original but the beast was too far gone for my budget. I guess that's why I appreciate a nice, clean, pure resto!!!
If someone wants to come to Utah back the truck up I load it.
If someone wants to come to Utah back the truck up I load it.
#6
I guess I'm one of those that finds value in the 239. I have two now, and looking for a couple more. Problem is location. I'm looking forward to getting one in the near future just 30 miles or so from where I'm located. (No Rick, I have not forgotten about you and I'll be in touch soon - promise!!)
There is a 239 on e-bay now that appears to have been rebuilt a few years back. Owner has reposted it as the first time around the bidding got up to about $600 but did not meet his reserve. Truth is, for me anyway, if the owner could tell me more history about the engine, I likley pay top dollar for it - but he can't. With out the history, nor a chance to see it up close and in person, I'd only pay about $400 for it - $600 if I have the opportunity to run a compression test and it does well.
As for one that was rebuilt within five years or so, I could touch it and run a test or two, I'd pay up to $1000 for it if it scored well and was within 200 to 300 miles.
I guess I'd pay $100 to $200 for one that has been out of the truck for a few years and taken care of, but was running when it was pulled. Same for one that is currently mounted but needs a bit of work.
If its been sitting out in the weather for years, not a chance - strip it down and sell the pieces parts.
Also, I perfer to purchase just the engine alone - some sellers think they can get a little more by throwing in the transmission and asking for $50 more bucks - I don't want any more old torn up trannys.
That's my take on the 239 - and yes, I have a 54 F100 that is in the midst of a rebuild. I'm at that point of getting an engine together for her. If anyone in the Pacific Northwest has a 239 for sell or free, drop me a line - if its within a desent distance or on my normal routes, I just might be interested.
There is a 239 on e-bay now that appears to have been rebuilt a few years back. Owner has reposted it as the first time around the bidding got up to about $600 but did not meet his reserve. Truth is, for me anyway, if the owner could tell me more history about the engine, I likley pay top dollar for it - but he can't. With out the history, nor a chance to see it up close and in person, I'd only pay about $400 for it - $600 if I have the opportunity to run a compression test and it does well.
As for one that was rebuilt within five years or so, I could touch it and run a test or two, I'd pay up to $1000 for it if it scored well and was within 200 to 300 miles.
I guess I'd pay $100 to $200 for one that has been out of the truck for a few years and taken care of, but was running when it was pulled. Same for one that is currently mounted but needs a bit of work.
If its been sitting out in the weather for years, not a chance - strip it down and sell the pieces parts.
Also, I perfer to purchase just the engine alone - some sellers think they can get a little more by throwing in the transmission and asking for $50 more bucks - I don't want any more old torn up trannys.
That's my take on the 239 - and yes, I have a 54 F100 that is in the midst of a rebuild. I'm at that point of getting an engine together for her. If anyone in the Pacific Northwest has a 239 for sell or free, drop me a line - if its within a desent distance or on my normal routes, I just might be interested.
Last edited by Bessie; 07-23-2006 at 01:03 AM.
#7
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#9
#11
I just got a quote from a fella in Rhode Island to rebuild any y-block - his going rate is $3500 bare bones - add parts to the engine and the price goes up a little. Also, this does not include shipping, however, he does all the crating to get it ready to go.
This guy does a "Great" job and has several y-block blocks to start with. If I had the $$, I think I'd be all over it!
This guy does a "Great" job and has several y-block blocks to start with. If I had the $$, I think I'd be all over it!
#12
I think quite a few machine shops can be found locally that can do the Y a good job. Look for an older owner, and an outfit with a good reputation. Talk to them and ask a few questions. In little Grants Pass, Oregon, Peckham can do the job, except he is too busy to take new work. About anyone can build the heads, turn cranks, rebuild rods, balance rotating assemblies, bore and surface blocks, etc. You would be wise to educate yourself as much as possible in advance so you know exactly what you want to have done. Otherwise, no matter where you take the motor short of Mummert's in California, the motor may come up short of expectations.
For instance, say you've spent $3500 for a rebuilt engine. It is a high price, and you assume (very bad idea), that it is a like new motor. Then a year or so later you find out that your crank wasnt turned but polished, the deck and heads werent surfaced so composite gaskets are mandatory, rods werent rebuilt, motor wasnt balanced, block wasnt bored just new rings installed, and on and on. Rather than a like new motor, it is the quality of the mass produced rebuilder small blocks available through the auto parts houses.
A small horror story about a Toyota head rebuilding came up at my retired mechanic's shop. He was helping a young teenager without any previous experience redo a head on his Toyota truck. The young man took the old head to the machine shop over in White City, OR. After having the head for over 3 weeks, telling him multiple conflicting stories of why it wasnt done, they finally said they had to get him a NEW head. The machinist had damaged the original. He wanted a higher performance cam, and didnt have a specific one in mind. They sold him one that for a reason I cant remember wouldnt work. Springs werent even checked. When the head returned to the mechanic he had to dissassemble, reassemble, and ended up having to put the stock cam back in place. And of course the head wasnt new put came from some salvage yard.
For instance, say you've spent $3500 for a rebuilt engine. It is a high price, and you assume (very bad idea), that it is a like new motor. Then a year or so later you find out that your crank wasnt turned but polished, the deck and heads werent surfaced so composite gaskets are mandatory, rods werent rebuilt, motor wasnt balanced, block wasnt bored just new rings installed, and on and on. Rather than a like new motor, it is the quality of the mass produced rebuilder small blocks available through the auto parts houses.
A small horror story about a Toyota head rebuilding came up at my retired mechanic's shop. He was helping a young teenager without any previous experience redo a head on his Toyota truck. The young man took the old head to the machine shop over in White City, OR. After having the head for over 3 weeks, telling him multiple conflicting stories of why it wasnt done, they finally said they had to get him a NEW head. The machinist had damaged the original. He wanted a higher performance cam, and didnt have a specific one in mind. They sold him one that for a reason I cant remember wouldnt work. Springs werent even checked. When the head returned to the mechanic he had to dissassemble, reassemble, and ended up having to put the stock cam back in place. And of course the head wasnt new put came from some salvage yard.
#13
still looking for 239?
Hello all! I am new to all this, however this sounds like a good way to get info. I am in the process of rebuilding my '54 F-100 and am looking to upgrade the powerplant. This leaves me with my 239. It does run but needs work, particularly to the rear seals and carb. The engine is complete with all the little goodies attached, and am looking for someone who will be looking to make good use of it. I am also looking to swap the original Dana 44 rear end with a 9 inch. Do any of you experienced builders know if there is value in that rear end?
#14
First of all, welcome to FTE!
It's not the most popular opinion...but the D44 might be worth keeping. I've run them for years in various vehicles & they hold up pretty well. It depends on what your new engine is & what your driving habits are. If I was to swap a mild 302/350/351 in, I'd probably keep the 44 & just change gears (although, I've set up Dana Salisbury-type axles...now, if I had to pay someone for a gear swap, it might be a different story.) If you're looking to make 500 ft.lb. of torque, or tend to dump the clutch @ 7 grand, I'd swap it.
In and of itself, the 44 isn't worth much. Most guys who are "darksiders" change it out for a 9" (regardless of actual need ), & they don't commonly break in a stock or near stock application, so the going rate isn't high. Also, they're easy to find. My $0.02.
It's not the most popular opinion...but the D44 might be worth keeping. I've run them for years in various vehicles & they hold up pretty well. It depends on what your new engine is & what your driving habits are. If I was to swap a mild 302/350/351 in, I'd probably keep the 44 & just change gears (although, I've set up Dana Salisbury-type axles...now, if I had to pay someone for a gear swap, it might be a different story.) If you're looking to make 500 ft.lb. of torque, or tend to dump the clutch @ 7 grand, I'd swap it.
In and of itself, the 44 isn't worth much. Most guys who are "darksiders" change it out for a 9" (regardless of actual need ), & they don't commonly break in a stock or near stock application, so the going rate isn't high. Also, they're easy to find. My $0.02.
#15