I am close to my automatic trans (C6) and p/s conversion. My question is on the lower adjustable collar. Is it replaceable? I know there is an upper bearing. Is there a lower bearing? I pulled the entire column with wheel and all needed parts from the same truck.(69-72')The wear on the lower collar has cut into the allen screws that hold it on. Chilton's is of no use on this area. I have not taken the column apart yet. Help!

Robert- 68' F100 2X4 FE T-18 4SPD

 

Rob, are you not wanting to exchange for a shorter ps column, it would make life much simpler. :-)

John
jowilker

66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night, you can hear chevys rusting away.

 

Rob, Yes! there is a lower bearing in your column and it is usually worn out on trucks of this vintage. New bearings and other parts you will need are available from Johns F-Fun Hundreds in California. 800-563-3151. Are you trying to keep your truck basically stock? 78 vintage mustang tilt columns will work in your application. Carefully inspect the bottom end of your column housing to see if it is ruined by the lack of a bearing. The small parts from your manual steer column will work in your shorter PS column. You may have to move the clamp that holds the column to the bottom of the dash. Just drill out the welds and move the clamp from your original column. Lay both columns out on a bench with plenty of light and study how they come apart. Prime and paint the column. Lube everything with white grease. Replace all marginal parts and assemble in reverse order. This is a really simple process without the need for special tools or skills. Just take your time. Put the rubber floor boot on the column housing before you attach the steering shaft and shift linkage. When your done you should have a tight, easy to turn steering column with functioning back up light, turn signal, horn and neutral start switches. There is lots more, keep us posted using this thread.
William in Atlanta 66 F100 FE C6 PS PDB AC SWB

 

Thanks for the help. John- the column is a p/s column.

Robert

 

I finally found the time to start the rebuild. I have everything apart except the lower shift lever. How do you get the shifter tube out? It looks like it is in good shape. I just wanted to make sure and give it a good cleaning and lube.

Robert 68' F100 390 FE C6 P/S under way!

 

Just finished the same two projects as you on my '68. You may not know it yet, but you can't wait to get it on the road with these two mods. It'll be like a whole new truck. Anyway, the tube on my column is the only part I chose not to remove. It didn't look like the actuator for the PRN switch would clip back on if I took it off and it has to come off to get the tube out. I just worked a good helping of grease down into the shift lever area and let it go. With a couple good jerks I have pulled the tube from a manual column. There's a spring down there and it isn't real easy to line up the tube into the hole in the lever, but it can be done. The bottom part at the lever works just like the top part at the shift bowl--there's a piece spot welded onto the tube that slides into a slot on the lever. Good luck.

Dan Blackwell

 

Thanks. Sounds like I should leave it alone. I will grease it up and drive! You are right I can't wait. The "new" front end was heavin'; power steering and auto will be the icing.

Robert

 

[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="+1" FACE="Veranda"]If you are trying to "restore" the column for appearance, as well as function then it is best to remove the parts because it will make it easier to detail the lever which has a plated finish as opposed to the column tube which has a painted finish. However, if all you need is function then the "excess" lube method works too (BTDT). As for the actual removal, the auto shifter tube is also spring loaded. It should pop right out upon removal of the gear selector collar. If it doesn't then it probably means the shift lever is seized onto the bottom of the tube. I recently rebuilt a 72 F100 auto column. There was so much rust build-up down there that the shifter wouldn't even shift! Not even a BFH would move it. The lever was actually rust-welded right to the opening where it came out of the tube. I soaked the assembly in a diluted mix of muratic acid. Within 1/2 hour all parts were seperating without any excess force being necessary. One word of caution: acid eats away at the decomposing metal; therefore, if there isn't a lot of metal to work with when you start, you'll have even less after the acid bath. This method will also require you to re-finish the tube because the acid will remove paint depending on how strong the acid is and how long you soak the part.[/FONT]

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[FONT COLOR="#ff0000" SIZE="+2" FACE="Bassett"]Stock Man[/FONT]
[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="-1" FACE="Tahoma"]
1967 F250 4wd Mini Fire Truck
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd LWB Styleside
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flareside
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>[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE=" 1" FACE="Veranda"]BTDT
[/FONT]
>
>
BFH I know. What's BTDT?

Dan Blackwell

 

[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="+1" FACE="Veranda"]
Been There Done That[/FONT]:-)

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[FONT COLOR="#ff0000" SIZE="+2" FACE="Bassett"]Stock Man[/FONT]
[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="-1" FACE="Tahoma"]
1967 F250 4wd Mini Fire Truck
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd LWB Styleside
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flareside
http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 11-Jul-00 AT 01:54 AM (EST)[/font][p]Are there going to be any electrical wiring problems? When I pulled the column I cut the wire harness after the plug to keep both halves.

Is the bottom bearing the same as the top?
The inside of the bearing is gone.

Stock Man- Do you just pull the shifter shaft out from the top? Not having much luck yet. The lever is moving freely and there is no visable rust.

Thanks AGAIN!

Robert 68' F100 2X4

 

[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="+1" FACE="Veranda"]
If there were a taller building here I'd be on it now yelling: "DONT CUT THE WIRES!" The connector can be easily removed and the wires will simply slide right up through the column. All I do is make a quick schematic so I'll know where to put the wires back into the connector on re-assembly. I wish I had imparted this advice to you sooner. Notwithstanding, I'll guarantee that you will not be the first FTO with spliced turn signal wires...nor, regrettably, will you be the last.

As for the tube: I assume you have the whole column removed from the truck? Have you removed the gear selector collar? Push down on the tube a little and see if there is any give. If so, the tube should come out without too much hassle. If not your tube is binding down there. If the rust issue doesn't seem to be the problem try spraying some WD-40 or equivelant in there to free things up and try again. Also: the bearing is the same for the top and bottom. When I need to replace a bearing I usually look for a good top bearing from another column. I hope this helps.[/FONT]

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[FONT COLOR="#ff0000" SIZE="+2" FACE="Bassett"]Stock Man[/FONT]
[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="-1" FACE="Tahoma"]
1967 F250 4wd Mini Fire Truck
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd LWB Styleside
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flareside
http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

 

I did not cut the wires before the harness plug. I made the cut AFTER the harness plug. So all is safe there. I can push the tube down and it springs back without any bind. I thought you pulled it out with some (little) force. I just wanted to make sure before doing any damage. These columns are difficult to find in my part of Utah. That is good news on the bearings. I have a new set on order through LMC. Thank you for the advice and directions.

Robert

 

[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="+1" FACE="Veranda"]
My point is that you needn't cut at all. You simply unplug the connector then each individual wire pulls out of the connector then the wires will be able to be pulled up through the column. Look closely at the plug and you'll see how each pin is locked in there. BTW--I have cut several of these harnesses in my day, so I'm not getting down on you, just trying to save someone from doing what I did.

As for the necessary force, I wouldn't recommend hooking the parts between two trucks, but a little extra force may be required.
[/FONT]

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[FONT COLOR="#ff0000" SIZE="+2" FACE="Bassett"]Stock Man[/FONT]
[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="-1" FACE="Tahoma"]
1967 F250 4wd Mini Fire Truck
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd LWB Styleside
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flareside
http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

 

[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="+1" FACE="Veranda"]
As Dan mentioned above, you have to remove the tab which actuates the Park-Neutral safety switch. It is the lever protruding from the column where the switch bolts on. You will have to remove that part if you wish to remove the tube from the column. Do you have that item on your column?[/FONT]

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[FONT COLOR="#ff0000" SIZE="+2" FACE="Bassett"]Stock Man[/FONT]
[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="-1" FACE="Tahoma"]
1967 F250 4wd Mini Fire Truck
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd LWB Styleside
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flareside
http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee