On retrospect, I think I won't replace my brake lines. The truck has been sitting idle for several years with the lines disconnected, but otherwise there is no apparent damage otherwise. I'm thinking of flushing with wheel cleaner/flouric acid, phosphoric acid rust /etching liquid, or purple power. Like to hear other opinions...

 

with the amount of work involved to completly flush out whatever you put in the lines to clean them, and still not know if one will fail or not, verses just replacing them and knowing they will all be new, i would just replace them all. it will probably be cheaper to replace them than clean them also.

 

I agree with tjc transport. I plan on replacing all of my lines because the P.O.'s submerged the truck a lot and the lines are full of gunk. Jeffs bronco graveyard has a set of pre-bent steel lines for $150. Theres another company called inline tube that I've heard good things about.

FWIW,

DS

 

i replaced all the lines on my 88 for under $45 and 3 hours of bending time.

 

Do not flush them with any kind of chemical except maybe soapy water, because you will never completely remove it from the lines. What you can do is make an adapter (brass fitting is fine) to go from a low 300 psi pressue washer and flush the lines out with water and then blow them out with air.

Of course, you can not blow or force water through a RABS or port. valve.

Personally, I would replace all the metal and rubber lines, take the RABS off, flush it with BRAKE FLUID (do not use brake fluid) , clean the screen, and be done with it. Rear wheel cyl are only $10 a piece on a Ford, I woudl replace those at the same time. If the front calipers are only $20 I would replace those too.

Personally, when I buy a vehicle that is pretty much wrecked or the brake line system is open, I replace all the brake parts except maybe the booster. On an older Ford you can replace everything for less then $200 including the booster. It is worth it to have good working brakes and to do everything once.

 

Okay, I think I'm seeing a pattern here... lol.

I've purchased a new master cylinder and booster cause the old booster was rusted through. Actually, I've purchased new lines (sticks) and a bending tool as well. I was frustrated cause some recommended the sticks.

When I got to work I mentioned it to a guy who is very experienced at building cars. He questioned the wisdom of sticks saying it was risky to use sticks instead of a single run with less joints because of the high pressures involved and the need to trust my life to it. I've invested the dollars now and didn't want to buy another set of lines.

I'll think about it and read the follow up posts for more information.

 

sticks and couplers are fine, as long as you remember to use only double flair fittings, and not compression fittings and furls.

 

I don't know what a furl is or a double flared wall banger thingamajig. I'll get a picture of what i have, maybe just looking at it will explain itself.

 

double flair fittings are stock brake parts. compression fittings and furls are used in plumbing and air lines, are dangerous to use in brake lines due to the high pressures, and against the law in most states. ..
but some people cheap out and still use them

 

Oh no, that's not me. I'm not trying to cut corners. I purchased 5/16th brake line in sticks (sections) of varying lengths. I'd taken care to anticipate good straight connection points after the bends so I have none at or near the flare.

They are flared, and not compression type as I may have mistakenly stated. Labeled "double walled copper insulated" "for extra protection" . The flare does not look the same as my plumbing flare tool produces, being much shorter and somewhat rolled or flat edged so this may be the double flare though it doesn't state such.

Someone told me to go 5/16th, which is larger than original.

 

> Someone told me to go 5/16th, which is larger than original.

<SIGH>
-SIGH-

Totally wrong advice.

Just go with the original 3/16 (?) line, unless this is a big honking F-600 or something running 38+ inch tires with manual brakes. Bigger is not better. If you do not have the larger mstr cyl/booster you can not move the larger volume of fluid to properly work (clamp) the brake calipers.

Really, think about this, you put huge lines on, and then you are going to neck down to a fitting on the brake caliper/hose far smaller then 5/16. Where is the benefit?

It is okay to add maybe the larger mstr/booster for a vehicle up the line (F-150->F250), but, to increase the brake line diameter that much, you have to upgrade everything including the caliper/piston area.

What year and model is this and is it a 4x4 with bigger tires?

 

Hey man, thanks for writing back about this. Yeah, my lines are smaller, much more so I'd say maybe appear half. I don't know if this double wall thing makes a difference. I've got a '79 F250 Super Cab, fairly heavy looking 2wd. New booster and master cylinder and a 400 engine. It's a Dana 61 axle, I believe and it is heavy looking .

No problem though, I guess I could use it as fuel line, though I don't know why I couldn't have run polyethylene / vinyl type clear or reinforced rubber type hose all the way.

What you think? Need pics I'll take them. Still working on the frame so i have time to do right, maybe they'll take it back though I bought the stuff last year.

 

"furls" = "ferrules"

I've seen ethanol suggested as a safe thing to rinse out brake lines with. Use rubbing alcohol, unless you happen to know a moonshiner that makes 200 proof. That's what I used after making new lines, just to make sure I got any steel slivers out (squirt in some rubbing alcohol, blow out with compressed air).

If the steel lines don't show rust (and pitting) on the outside, they could be just fine. The busted lines I've seen all rusted from the outside in. But, if you can buy a set of new lines off the shelf, maybe even in stainless (and you plan to keep the truck long-term), that seems like a smart investment.

 

Thanks, angus. My lines aren't rusted outside, but there's some light rust around the connections to the master cylinder that i rmeoved some time ago. It goes a little way in from there too, but it isn't real bad. Ethanol would clean any residue, as would acetone, but do nothing for rust. Both would evaporate to nothing. I wire brushed the fittings into the caliper and it looks functional enough.

I might give it a go, and squirt brake fluid through it using the one man brake job hand pump. I guess I could filter it through a coffee filter to see what comes out and whether it runs clear. What do you think? BTW, I don't think any of the ferrules got unfurled