351/400 clevland/mod performance.
#1
351/400 clevland/mod performance.
I've been reading another thread and it brought up some points that I've got a couple questions about.
Someone mentioned that the Clevland and Modified engines have oiling problems. If I remember right the only problem is too much oil to the top of the engine and I think that that is easily remidied with restrictors in the oil passages. I used to have a book that recomended this for high performance applications. Has anyone done this modification or had it done?
Is anyone out there running a 351/400 mod and having any problems with it. My cousin had a 351m in his Bronco and never have any problems and he used to do some pretty serious mud bogging. If anyone is running a 351/400 do you have it modified any and what kind of milage are you getting?
I'm asking these question as I'm going to pull the 302 out of my truck and have narrowd my choise of engines down to a 390, a 460, or a 351/400. I would prefer a 390 as it will work easier in my '66 but I'm having trouble finding a usable core with all brackets attached for a reasonable price. I have located a couple of 460's but that is maybe a little more size than I want and milage is a consern of mine (I want to get 13 to 15 mpg). I am seriously considering a 351/400m now as they are a dime a dozen. I almost bought a whole truck with a 351m for $400 and I can't get a 390 for that kind of money.
Anyone in SC that's got a 390 with all attaching bracketry for sale please let me know.
Someone mentioned that the Clevland and Modified engines have oiling problems. If I remember right the only problem is too much oil to the top of the engine and I think that that is easily remidied with restrictors in the oil passages. I used to have a book that recomended this for high performance applications. Has anyone done this modification or had it done?
Is anyone out there running a 351/400 mod and having any problems with it. My cousin had a 351m in his Bronco and never have any problems and he used to do some pretty serious mud bogging. If anyone is running a 351/400 do you have it modified any and what kind of milage are you getting?
I'm asking these question as I'm going to pull the 302 out of my truck and have narrowd my choise of engines down to a 390, a 460, or a 351/400. I would prefer a 390 as it will work easier in my '66 but I'm having trouble finding a usable core with all brackets attached for a reasonable price. I have located a couple of 460's but that is maybe a little more size than I want and milage is a consern of mine (I want to get 13 to 15 mpg). I am seriously considering a 351/400m now as they are a dime a dozen. I almost bought a whole truck with a 351m for $400 and I can't get a 390 for that kind of money.
Anyone in SC that's got a 390 with all attaching bracketry for sale please let me know.
#2
#3
351/400 clevland/mod performance.
>I almost bought a whole truck with a 351m for $400 and I can't >get a 390 for that kind of money.
Around here you can. I just got back from a run to the local self help yard and noticed about 10 of them. I don't know the market back east (I'm in CA) but I understand that things rust out quicker back there.
I would opt for the 390, because I think it has great performance potential. It was raced a lot in the old days and make great torque. I think the aftermarket for the FE is good, not as good as the 5.0 or 351W but still good. Edelbrock has good intakes and even the stock 390GT S codes are plentiful.
I don't care for the 400, the only others I would pick are the 351W or the 429/460
You might want to check some of the heavy truck junk yards, many old 65-76 heavy trucks had 360/390s in them
Around here you can. I just got back from a run to the local self help yard and noticed about 10 of them. I don't know the market back east (I'm in CA) but I understand that things rust out quicker back there.
I would opt for the 390, because I think it has great performance potential. It was raced a lot in the old days and make great torque. I think the aftermarket for the FE is good, not as good as the 5.0 or 351W but still good. Edelbrock has good intakes and even the stock 390GT S codes are plentiful.
I don't care for the 400, the only others I would pick are the 351W or the 429/460
You might want to check some of the heavy truck junk yards, many old 65-76 heavy trucks had 360/390s in them
#4
#5
#6
#7
351/400 clevland/mod performance.
The 351c/351m/400 supposedly do not oil #5 and #6 main
bearings very well. I am told you can run an external oil
line from the port on the front driver's side of the engine
near the oil filter to the port at the rear top of the block.
This is supposed to boost flow to those mains in the rear.
What all this oil restrictor business seems to be is racer
stuff. The way Ford designed this oiling system (which is
sort of screwed up) if you break a rocker arm, bend a pushrod,
or anything that will let a lifter fly out of the block you
lose all oil pressure instantly. Of course this usually
happens at high rpm so the motor is toast. But I only see
the hardcore racing guys worrying about this. As far as motors
go, anything you choose that was made very early 70's or
earlier is always going to run better with a stock rebuild
than a later motor. 390's have a good reputation because most
of them were early motors with high compression. 289's always
had a good reputation for the same reason. You can build a
400 that will have the same or maybe more power but you will
have to plan carefully. All mid to late 70's motors are
smogged up emission boat anchors and need more than a stock
rebuild to make lots of power.
bearings very well. I am told you can run an external oil
line from the port on the front driver's side of the engine
near the oil filter to the port at the rear top of the block.
This is supposed to boost flow to those mains in the rear.
What all this oil restrictor business seems to be is racer
stuff. The way Ford designed this oiling system (which is
sort of screwed up) if you break a rocker arm, bend a pushrod,
or anything that will let a lifter fly out of the block you
lose all oil pressure instantly. Of course this usually
happens at high rpm so the motor is toast. But I only see
the hardcore racing guys worrying about this. As far as motors
go, anything you choose that was made very early 70's or
earlier is always going to run better with a stock rebuild
than a later motor. 390's have a good reputation because most
of them were early motors with high compression. 289's always
had a good reputation for the same reason. You can build a
400 that will have the same or maybe more power but you will
have to plan carefully. All mid to late 70's motors are
smogged up emission boat anchors and need more than a stock
rebuild to make lots of power.
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#8
#9
351/400 clevland/mod performance.
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 07-Jan-01 AT 10:28 AM (EST)[/font][p]You can use the FT crank if the timing cover is also swaped, and the rear flange shortend 3/16", The FT and 410,428 are a detriot balance engine where as the FE is zero balanced.The blocks are cast with bigger webs and stronger materials in them.
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