I am fixing some holes in the roof of my truck due to rust and i was wondering if anyone here used lead to fill in the holes? I know its toxic but it doesnt rust so i figure it would make a good filler. anyone here have any experience dealing with the stuff?

 

Talk to your grandpa. That use to be all they had before bondo. But lucky for you this is 2006, and theres a thing called bondo hair, which is a fiber glass paste and works perfect for things like pluging holes.

 

I can do leading. I learned from someone who considered plastic body fillers of today "crap".

Basically it's soldering with a torch... and it's a lost art actually. Takes a while to get the hang of, just like soldering, but it's very useful.

 

I've cleaned out the rain gutter on my 65. Damage was not too bad. After I weld up some small holes I was thinking about lead-free body solder to skim in over the weld and seams. Then top coat with a paintable seam sealer. Any thoughts/product ideas?

 

Eastwood sells everything you need and are running 10% off this month. While I buy a lot of stuff from them, I always check with my local auto body and paint supply store. Alot of times they have stuff cheaper and knowlegable because thats all they deal with.

 

The stuff they sell today is nothing like the old lead used for body work years ago..... Doesn't work the same, doesn't last the same..... I did the lead deal for years and have since switched to newer and better products like Marsglass, and the 'glass impregnated fillers from Evercoat that are available in both long and short strand....

The main thing is whichever product you use, the rust has to be first removed and or neutralized with one of the new rust encapsulators on the market and the seams or holes have to be welded shut first then ping & ding til the surface is flat, THEN comes the filler--- I use the Marsglass first as it forms a barrier over the surface that is both waterproof and blocks air from getting to the steel.....

I personally wouldn't go to all the hassle of using this new pretend lead for body work, the new fillers are at least equal and in many cases superior to them..... When someone tells you they used all lead and no "bondo", better ask them how many years they had this old lead stashed away cuz it hasn't been available on the market for a couple decades!!!!! From my experience over the years, I would have to highly recomend the Evercoat line of products for body work. Lead was done away with because it is a known carcinogen and was also a lot of hassle to use correctly. If you follow the directions of the new fillers, and do your body work BEFORE smearing on a big batch of filler, it is far more efficient then the old methods......

As gfw mentioned, I can almost always beat the prices of Eastwood at a local auto body supply store, and not have the wait or the freight to get it here......

 

I've done leading for years. It takes a lot of practice, like stated above its a art form. The best place and cheapest way to get lead is from tire weights or old fish sinkers. Get a old pot or something you can put the lead in and melt, then skim the impurities off the top. I use an old wavy broiler pan for a mold to make 1/2" sticks.

 

What about some plumbing flux and some sliver bearing-lead free, acid core solder?
I keep reading things of brazing causing corrosion later on, I'm not that fond of bondo but will consider fiberglass, and I can't find regular leading locally. I have wheel weights already melted down into discs for casting bullets. So, flux, tin, and apply?

 

You need to get a wood leading paddle to work it with also. And get a coffee can and cut it down to 2-3" tall, get a old rag put in the bottom of it and soak with a little oil. Use it to help keep your paddle clean and it keeps the lead from sticking to the paddle.

When fluxing, brush it on and heat up with the torch and wire brush the metal down good and get it clean and flux it again. I use the hand held type welding brush. Not to sure about plumbing flux. If you have a welding supply store around go there. They'll have flux and maybe lead and leading stuff.

Acid core solder might work depending on how big a hole your trying to fill.

 

Most of the holes are small but one is probably the diameter of a pencil. I checked at the welding store but they weren't very helpful.

 

I was thinking about the eastwood lead-free solder kit, but will try a local body supply first. I'm concerned about putting putty where water may lay. I figured the lead was flexible enough to hold up where the three panels come together(roof, windsheild frame, and gutter). Truck will be a Sunday crusier, will never see snow, and will only see water from the hose.

 

I found this.
17 Pc Auto Body Lead/Solder Kit - TP Tools & Equipment

 

FYI: Here is a little tip I've never seen mentioned anywhere. I retired from the phone company where use of lead was real common years ago for repairing cables. The old guy's used squares of cloth soaked in parafin, looked like old pillow case w/ the blue stripes, to wipe the joints down while solder was still hot. It was called lead wiping and made the nicest, smoothest seams I have ever seen. I removed many that had been under water for 40 years without a leak. Each one stamped with the initials of technician doing the work.

 

In my opinion the proper way to fix rust holes in a vehicle body is to cut out the rusty piece and weld in a new piece of steel (either with a mig or tig welder). Covering or filling in rust holes with lead or fiberglass is haywire and won't last. It also does nothing to strengthen the area. But that's just my opinion. If your just building a bush truck or beater do what-ever, but if your restoring a vehicle do it right and replace the steel with steel.

 

I only have two "rust" holes in the roof. The rest are just screw holes from cab lights.