Inverted Y to T style steering on 76 f150
#1
Inverted Y to T style steering on 76 f150
I'am going crazy trying to find information on this, many have done this with the 76 bronco using 78-79 parts but they are a completely different body style so that doesn't help me. I have a 76 f150 4x4 and am replacing alot of it. My steering links/joints are all messed up, so I was going to replace them, but I want the ability for a drop pitman arm to get the correct geometry for the steering.
So the question is: does the t style steering from a 78-79 f150 bolt directly to my current 76 setup so I can do away with the Inverted Y and the lack of drop pitman arms or are there some slight differences that need to be overcome?
So the question is: does the t style steering from a 78-79 f150 bolt directly to my current 76 setup so I can do away with the Inverted Y and the lack of drop pitman arms or are there some slight differences that need to be overcome?
Last edited by tobmasterp; 01-18-2006 at 05:03 PM. Reason: clearify the title
#2
Supposedly they are a direct bolt on. I am looking at doing a GM 1 ton Tie rod conversion since it is about the same price as parts from LMC, JBG and the like. However, if I went stock, I would use a superlift adjustable drag link so that fine tuning the alignment would be possible. Hope this helps.
#3
Hmm, is the current set-up the power assist or the integral box? I took a 78/79 set-up to replace the power assist on my '74.
The first diff between the two is the steering gear placement:
The '74 manual gear is forward of the drag link, pitman arm pointing toward the driver. The power steering gear mounts directly above the drag link, pitman arm pointing toward the front bumper. I took the intermediate shaft to the column for an easy fit-up.
The frame of the '74 is not flat where the new gear will mount. The new gear orients to the track bar bracket. This puts 2 of the 3 mounting holes directly over a contour. I'll be grinding some spacers to fit the contour so that I can maintain surface contact when it's torqued down.
Another difference is the drag link:
While both are the "T" style, they mount differently. The '74 mounts from the bottom up, nuts on top of the steering knuckle. The 78/79 drops in from the top, nuts underneath. The ends are different, newer has bigger diameter bolts with (I think) a different taper.
This is where I stopped. Had I taken the newer knuckles and everything associated with the disc brakes it'd be a done deal. At this time I prefer to keep the drums, I'll have to find a reamer with the correct taper (whatever that is) and fill the bottom of the old taper.
The hoses may have different fittings. I planned on taking the stuff I need to my local NAPA so they could cut hose and make the high pressure crimps if need be. I want new hoses anyway.
Hope this helps, Mike
The first diff between the two is the steering gear placement:
The '74 manual gear is forward of the drag link, pitman arm pointing toward the driver. The power steering gear mounts directly above the drag link, pitman arm pointing toward the front bumper. I took the intermediate shaft to the column for an easy fit-up.
The frame of the '74 is not flat where the new gear will mount. The new gear orients to the track bar bracket. This puts 2 of the 3 mounting holes directly over a contour. I'll be grinding some spacers to fit the contour so that I can maintain surface contact when it's torqued down.
Another difference is the drag link:
While both are the "T" style, they mount differently. The '74 mounts from the bottom up, nuts on top of the steering knuckle. The 78/79 drops in from the top, nuts underneath. The ends are different, newer has bigger diameter bolts with (I think) a different taper.
This is where I stopped. Had I taken the newer knuckles and everything associated with the disc brakes it'd be a done deal. At this time I prefer to keep the drums, I'll have to find a reamer with the correct taper (whatever that is) and fill the bottom of the old taper.
The hoses may have different fittings. I planned on taking the stuff I need to my local NAPA so they could cut hose and make the high pressure crimps if need be. I want new hoses anyway.
Hope this helps, Mike
#6
I did this on my 77 F150 4X4 last spring. I purchased new parts from Napa for a 79 F150, drag link, right tie rod end, left tie rod end, and adjusting sleeve with hardware. I bought the 4" drop pitman arm from BDS and bolted it all in place for about $325. Made a huge difference in steering play and took about an hour to install. Well worth the money and effort! -Ed
#7
Trending Topics
#8
I did the same inverted T style steering conversion on my 1976 F150 4x4 and 1975 F150 4x4. You will need all the 1978-1979 F150 steering components from the pitman arm down to both tie rod ends. 77460f150 listed all the parts.
This would be a good time to replace all the bushings from the radius arm to the C-bushing, including the track arm bushing. A kit will include all the bushings.
This would be a good time to replace all the bushings from the radius arm to the C-bushing, including the track arm bushing. A kit will include all the bushings.
#9
Interesting, I used to have the T style but now have the Y style on my 77 and it is WAY tighter. I drive on a lot of twisty country roads and I feel a lot safer and connected to the road with the stock set up. The T style also lowers your clearance and was a step backwards in technology on my opinion.
#11
Garrison Power Assist P/S: 1973/75 F100 4WD / 1975 F150 4WD
Power Assist: 2 long P/S hoses, pressure & return, route from the P/S pump to the P/S control valve. Two short P/S hoses, pressure & return, route from the P/S control valve to the P/S hydraulic ram cylinder.
With Power Assist, the manual steering gearbox is used, because it has nothing to do with Power Assist.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ford integral P/S: 1976/79 F100/150 4WD. P/S pressure and return hoses route from the P/S pump to the P/S gearbox.
1965/77 P/S pumps have a steel reservoir, P/S pressure hose threads on.
1978 and later P/S pumps have a plastic reservoir. P/S pressure hose has a straight tube w/an o-ring on it. Connects to the pump w/a qwik connect fitting.
Power Assist: 2 long P/S hoses, pressure & return, route from the P/S pump to the P/S control valve. Two short P/S hoses, pressure & return, route from the P/S control valve to the P/S hydraulic ram cylinder.
With Power Assist, the manual steering gearbox is used, because it has nothing to do with Power Assist.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ford integral P/S: 1976/79 F100/150 4WD. P/S pressure and return hoses route from the P/S pump to the P/S gearbox.
1965/77 P/S pumps have a steel reservoir, P/S pressure hose threads on.
1978 and later P/S pumps have a plastic reservoir. P/S pressure hose has a straight tube w/an o-ring on it. Connects to the pump w/a qwik connect fitting.
#12
I did this on my 77 F150 4X4 last spring. I purchased new parts from Napa for a 79 F150, drag link, right tie rod end, left tie rod end, and adjusting sleeve with hardware. I bought the 4" drop pitman arm from BDS and bolted it all in place for about $325. Made a huge difference in steering play and took about an hour to install. Well worth the money and effort! -Ed
#13
Zombie Thread ALERT !
IMO, a dropped pitman arm isn't required with a 2-inch lift. Btw, are ya just leveling it out by lifting the front or lifting the rear too?
#14
I agree ..... only 2" lift ..... no need for a drop pitman arm or track bar relocation bracket. If you put a drop pitman arm on it, you'll want to move the frame end of the track bar down a like amount. The 78-'79 stuff is intended to place the drag link parallel to the track bar so that they swing through the same arcs over bumps, rises, dips ..... so no "bump steer" occurs.
Much better set up!
#15
Hey Yooper.. just so ya know 77460f150's last activity was in 2011. There's a chance he/she might reply but don't have too a high a hope. Let's keep our fingers crossed....
IMO, a dropped pitman arm isn't required with a 2-inch lift. Btw, are ya just leveling it out by lifting the front or lifting the rear too?
IMO, a dropped pitman arm isn't required with a 2-inch lift. Btw, are ya just leveling it out by lifting the front or lifting the rear too?
Tks for the reply HIO Silver for the reply