1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Installation of Door Window's Part's

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Old 01-07-2006, 08:29 PM
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Installation of Door Window's Part's

Last Thursday; I successfully installed complete new parts minus door glass and vent glass into my 65 F100 doors. The process took about two hours once we figure out an easy way; I say we because; I believe it’s a two-person task due to alignment and working with glass. We attempted to follow a step by step illustration from a DC catalog; but found out some steps where easier doing it in the following manner; however every situation is different and I removed my old parts and glass about 14 months prior to reinstalling them, so we where little rusty from past removal.
I'll give a brief summary of some key issue’s to make removal of old parts a bit easier first. After all handles, door trim, access panel and armrest are removed. Release the door glass from the regulator arm; and place glass in the bottom of the door for removal further on during the process. Remove the regulator mechanism first (makes removal of the division bar easier). Note: Division bar are a tight fit to remove and install; we rotated them 180 degrees to remove (turn the lower mounting bracket that bolts to the top of the regulator towards the outside door skin during removal and install thru the access panel hole.
Once the regulator, division bar and door glass run are removed; we then removed the anti-rattlers, vent window & door glass; seem easier in this manner. Now your ready to install new parts.

INSTALLATION
We replaced all parts with new rubber seals, division bars etc, so my door frames where just a shell for this installation procedure.

1). Division Bar: Install it at about a 45-degree angle; turned 180 degrees opposite the way it mounts thru the access panel. Leaving it roughly at the same position laying at 45 degrees inside the door panel.

2). Regulator Mechanism: Install thru access panel; we attach loosely with four screws around the window crank stud (initially).

* Prior to installing door glass, we had to form the door glass run to the window glass, recommend holding down the door glass run on top of glass by one person, while the other person moles the door glass run over the curvature of the glass down along the glass towards the door glass (window) channel.

3). Door Glass: Once the door glass run are bent; install the door glass thru the top of the door panel and lower it to the bottom of the door and let it rest there until a further installation point.

4). Vent Window: At this point the door glass, regulator & division bar are inside the door panel; with the door glass and division bar laying down in the bottom of the door panel. Insert a nylon rope / string under outside of the rubber vent window seal; leaving a large portion expose at both ends to grasp when pulling the rubber seal lip over the door frame. (Our cord was about five foot long) probably too much hanging out but sometimes having extra is good.
We then installed the vent window using two screws along the A post and tighten them about 3/4 of the way. (Ensure the nylon cord is on the outside of the doorframe prior to this point). Go ahead and slowly pull the cord to over lap the rubber seal against the outside doorframe.

5). Division Bar: Side division bar into place; making sure the bottom attachment plate is over the top of the regulator mechanism to bolt to the inside two bolts to secure the bar to the regulator. Also screw the top two screws (thru door frame) loosely into place. Ensure the vent window screw; that's inserted thru the horizontal portion of the vent rubber near the vent window handle is screw into the division bar at this time.

6). Door Glass Run: Remember this is now bent at a curved angle; Install thru the top of door, guide door run along the inside channel guide along the door handle side until the dove tail clip is resting flush into the groove in the channel (don't know proper name) that the door glass run slides into. This channel bar is vertical along the door handle side, bolted thru the door panel near door locking mechanism.
* Use a 3/8" thick wood stick to insert between door glass run trim to snap run into alignment holes; don't put pressure into curvature portion only along the top three snap holes and two side snap holes of the trim portions.
** We use a wood shim (wedge use to plum & align a typical house door) from your local hardware store as our stick to accomplish this task....

7). Door Glass: Lift door glass from bottom of door panel along division bar & door glass run trim. Once align with regulator arm attach with cam roller & clip, (I use new plastic cam roller but found that my original (E clip or Jesus clip) attach cam roller better than my new made in Taiwan clip).
Crank glass up about 1/3rd of the way out; have a person hold squarely the glass for proper alignment while another person tightens division bar bolts and screws; we also tighten the vent window screws securely at this time.

8). Anti-Rattlers: Anti- rattlers are the last item to install and can be snapped into place with your finger and with the thinner portion of the wood shim we use. There are real thin metal pieces on the ends of the Anti-rattlers; we place the ends along the outside of the division bar and door glass run.

After this step just reattach your door trim, armrest, handles and access panel. I feel it took me longer to type this out then installing new parts. The DC illustration really help and recommend due to having pictures for each step; but the main difference's between them and us when we installed the vent window step. Seem easier prior too division bar and window glass step.
Hope this helps any future installments.

Mitch (Just a Shade Tree Mechanic with a lot of Leaves Missing)
 

Last edited by Customcab; 01-07-2006 at 08:42 PM. Reason: didn't check proper spelling etc.
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Old 01-08-2006, 11:25 AM
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I am gonna save this one to the hard drive...

FTE should have an instructions area for this kind of information.

jd
 
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Old 01-08-2006, 02:09 PM
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Thanks so much for taking the time to write this up. I will be performing the same job in the near future and I'm sure that I will be able to use this info. Bill
 
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Old 01-09-2006, 05:24 AM
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I will be happy to host it on our NCFTO.org site if you would like.

We have several tech articles there.

John
 
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Old 01-09-2006, 01:00 PM
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Yes, thanks for the infromation, I will be ordering the door parts to do my 66 tonight, so this will come in handy. Allen
 
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Old 01-09-2006, 10:02 PM
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This is perfect! I recieved the anti-rattle kit for x-mas and order the door rubbers and vent rubbers last week.


I have one question, is it possible to do this without removing the window regulator or handle?
 
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Old 01-10-2006, 12:21 PM
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I'm sure it would be possible to do with regulator intact; especially with only changing vent & anti-rattlers; but I replace my division bar also, so it seem easier to install the new division bar with the regulator out of the way. To replace your vent rubber; I assume you have to lossen/remove your division bar. Also if you have to disconnect your window channel from the regulator than the only thing holding your regulator is five door panel screws; two divison bar bolts, the regulator is probably the easiest part to install anyway.

Also thanks John for putting this post into a techincial thread; I like how the 47-60 forum has consoildated some tech post.

Mitch
 
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Old 01-11-2006, 09:16 PM
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The anti-rattle kits come with the division bars and I installed everything today and it went swell. The problem I had was that about 7 years ago when I was 18 I jb welded the window crank. Not such a smart idea now, but I got the division bar in and out with no trouble. Wow what a difference that kit made. I also installed new rubber on the vent windows and door weatherstripping.
 
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Old 01-12-2006, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Customcab
Also thanks John for putting this post into a techincial thread; I like how the 47-60 forum has consoildated some tech post. Mitch
Mitch, Did you see the email that I sent you?

John
 
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Old 01-13-2006, 04:46 PM
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John; having this for quick reference into a post would be great, seems to be an area that will come up time to time; I like the way the 48-60 Forum has acouple of threads that cover commend problems etc.
Thanks for your dedication and techincial knowledge you posses for us, and please feel free to apply whatever you need to do to post this thread, John

Mitch
 
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Old 01-13-2006, 08:58 PM
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Excellent post.....actually straightforward, but the sequencing and the manipulating/maneuvering of the division bar is a pain....that and busting the screws loose on the regulator and I/S door latch....now...all I need is money and motivation to get mine done
hehehe



- cs65


Another thing ya might wanna consider as far as a sticky is a post I did last year about R&R of the Twin I Beam setup...just my 2 cents :-)
 
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Old 01-14-2006, 06:17 AM
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Mitch, All site owners have to be concerned about posting copyrited materials. I asked in my email if you were the author of the article, and to state to me that you were, and to give me permission to post it. Without that I can't load the article on my site or recommend it to be posted somewhere here.

Tis a good article.

John
 
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Old 01-14-2006, 06:27 AM
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Mitch ...John is spot on, in what he is telling you about posting copyrighted materials.
This is one of the fastest growing problems on the inter-net, and one that is being cracked down on aggressively.
 
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Old 01-16-2006, 11:02 AM
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John & Tim; sorry for the slow delay to respond to your request; and yes I'm the author of this post and have not copy it from any other articles; I have no legal binding nor rights with holding from you guys applying this into a thread for other folks to share. I grant my premission for this to be posted/ distribute too whomever.
Again thanks for your hard work, patience with me & especially dedication to this site.

Mitch
 
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Old 01-16-2006, 02:10 PM
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Thanks buddy....very cool
 


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