400M intake/carb help
#1
400M intake/carb help
ok so i got my hands on a 400M. its punched out .30 has about 60k miles on it, and i got it for free basically. i went a head and threw in an upgraded cam, springs and new valve seals, also got new lifters, pushrods and gear drive. im going to upgrade the oil pump as well. im looking into getting an intake and carb setup for it. i had the stock one on it and id like to go with a 4bbl.
My question is what do you guys think would be the best size carb...ive been told 650 by some....750 by others....im not quite sure, everyone has their own opinion...im just looking for some good reasons as to why i would go with a certain size.
Thanks in advanced
My question is what do you guys think would be the best size carb...ive been told 650 by some....750 by others....im not quite sure, everyone has their own opinion...im just looking for some good reasons as to why i would go with a certain size.
Thanks in advanced
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I have vacuum secondaries.
I get better fuel mileage with the 4v over the 2v because I don't punch it to the floor everytime I'm in it.
I believe the mechanical secondaries are less gratuitous than the vacuum type.
Have a peak at this.
http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/pickacarb.shtml
I get better fuel mileage with the 4v over the 2v because I don't punch it to the floor everytime I'm in it.
I believe the mechanical secondaries are less gratuitous than the vacuum type.
Have a peak at this.
http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/pickacarb.shtml
#5
It all depends on what you intend to do with it and what you are putting it in. Do you want low end torque or high rpm hp? What cam are you running? Whats the weight of the truck/gear ratio/tire size? All these things should be factored in. I ran a built up 400 in my 78 supercab for a number of years with a Weiand action plus manifold and a 600CFM Holley (that I tweaked on) and it did just fine up to about 4500rpm and then started running out of breath. But that was just fine for my needs cause the torque off idle was great.
#6
well i have a 79 supercab and im running 31x10.5x15 on it. the truck is pretty heavy, but its stock for the most part. i put a simple towing cam in it, i want basically raw power off the line with ability to pull a heavy load if need be. the gear ratio im not sure of, its stock but i never checked it out. i read that article mil1ion...thanks it helped a little, i think im goin to run a 750cfm holley with vacume secondaries...just not sure what intake manifold to run
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#8
Mil1ion is absolutely correct. The performer with a 650 carb will give you what you want, especially with a cam designed for lower end torque. A bigger carb will just use more fuel and probably create a stumble off the line. Vaccum secondaries work better too, unless you are blasting down the 1/4 mile at high rpms.
#9
Whether you decide on an Edlebrock or a Weiand manifold, just make sure that its a dual plane-not a single plenum. On mine I also added a 1 inch thick four hole spacer-not an open spacer. The goal is to get just the right size plenum (intake volume) to promote a good vacuum signal right off of idle. That will give you the best off-idle torque.
#10
Here's a little calculation to remember for choosing a carb:
Engine displacement X intended usage RPM / 3456 = carb cfm
like this:
400 (displacement) X 5500 (rpm) divided by 3456 (constant) = 636 cfm (round up to 650)
This will set you in the right direction. Any bigger and you will likely have a bogging problem in different situations. (maybe not at idle or WOT, but on the way there, or stumbling, dead spots)
Now, make of carb is totally up to you! (Holley, Edelbrock, etc)
I have only been into Edelbrocks; I find them very easy to tune, and forgiving. Holleys can get you more power, but frustration usually comes on the way there.
Oh, and yeah, I agree that using an 'M' after 400 is not politically correct.
Reason being, the 400 was around long before the 351M was ever heard of. It is an 'M' designation because it was a modified version of the 400. Wait til you hear what different things 'M' might mean! lol
They had to distinguish this engine from the 351C, because they are quite different blocks. It is also the difference of one year in time. (up to 1974 it is 351C. After 1974, it is 351M) The 400, no matter what year, is still a 400. That's it! You have a great engine there.
Mark
Engine displacement X intended usage RPM / 3456 = carb cfm
like this:
400 (displacement) X 5500 (rpm) divided by 3456 (constant) = 636 cfm (round up to 650)
This will set you in the right direction. Any bigger and you will likely have a bogging problem in different situations. (maybe not at idle or WOT, but on the way there, or stumbling, dead spots)
Now, make of carb is totally up to you! (Holley, Edelbrock, etc)
I have only been into Edelbrocks; I find them very easy to tune, and forgiving. Holleys can get you more power, but frustration usually comes on the way there.
Oh, and yeah, I agree that using an 'M' after 400 is not politically correct.
Reason being, the 400 was around long before the 351M was ever heard of. It is an 'M' designation because it was a modified version of the 400. Wait til you hear what different things 'M' might mean! lol
They had to distinguish this engine from the 351C, because they are quite different blocks. It is also the difference of one year in time. (up to 1974 it is 351C. After 1974, it is 351M) The 400, no matter what year, is still a 400. That's it! You have a great engine there.
Mark
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He added the electric choke, all 1850's come with a manual choke (just so nobody tries to buy a new one like that). The 1850 is a universal 600 but it doesn't come with a Ford kickdown lever. A kit is available to change the front throttle shaft to add the kickdown lever, though.They are good carbs and run well on most engines.
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