I have noticed that I can not hear that clicking noise after turning the key waiting for the wts light to go off. I replaced all the gp's(zd9's) and my gp-relay since the old one was cracked. Still VERY hard to start if not plugged in. Wondering about the clicking noise? The batteries are around 6mo and so is the alternator dont remember about the starter. Thanks for responses! This site has been great!!

 

The sound you are looking for came from the relay you replaced. Maybe the new relay is quieter. (i.e. does not make as much noise as the old one) To check the new relay pull the plastic cover off and put a 12V test light on the post that has the wire going to the glowplugs. (Use one of the negative terminals on the battery to be sure you got good ground) Then turn on your ignition (don't cranck) and watch the test light. It should light for about 5 to 15 seconds depending on how cold it is in your neck of the woods and then should start to blink and eventually go out. If it does not come on at all or does not blink there is a good chance the new new relay is not working. The blinking is the solenoid coming on and off which is the clicky sound you used to hear with the old solenoid. Given that your are getting the WTS light I am assuming you got power to the relay.

Before you condem your new relay do one more check on all your new GP's. It would not be the first time that a new GP burns out the first time it gets used. (although less likely with the Beru plugs that you have installed)

Another way to check if your relay is cycling properly (in case you don't have a test light) is to watch your voltage gauge in your instrument panel after the truck starts. The gauge needle should show about 8 to 10 volts after starting and then cycle for a few seconds before settling down on 14 volts. The cycling is the relay turning on and off. The glowplugs take a lot of Amps when the relay comes in.

Assuming your glowplug relay and glowplug all check out there is one more thing non-glowplug related that could be causing all your starting problems and that is related to possible air leaks in your injection return lines. As the weather gets cold the rubber return lines and the rubber O-rings on the injector return line fitting shrink causing air to leak into the fuel system while the truck sits overnight. When you try to start it in the morning you need to crank until the air has bled itself thru the injectors which could take quite some time depending on how much air has leaked into the system overnight.

The solution to the air problem is to replace all of your rubber O-rings on the return lines and all the rubber return lines. The rubber O-rings and hoses get hard over time and should be replaced. I replaced mine after about eight years and resolved all my non-glowplug related cold starting problems.

 

Check the black ground wire on the controller for a clean tight connection.