I'm finally getting around to fixing the exhaust leak on my '63 4x4.

I have what I hope are some simple questions:

1) The manual says to use graphite grease on the gasket. I've never heard of that; will copper plus or some other exhaust goo work instead?

2) When installing the manifold, does the gasket go between the heat shield and the manifold, or between the heat shield and the head? Or do I even need the heat shield?

I have all the gaskets and don't want to do this twice..

Hope that all makes sense..

 

63 views and no replies. That's a first..

I think the graphite grease isn't needed with the new gaskets, but I will use some copper spray just to fill in any small imperfections. I'm not putting the heat shield back on since it's pretty trashed.

So..

Old Manifold for now without heat shield and with new gaskets. I'm putting boot protectors on the plug wires since the heat shield will be gone.

Eventually I'll probably go with headers but for now, I'm just taking care of the right side and crossover pipe exhaust leaks.

 

Sounds like you are setting yourself up for some fried boots and fried boot protectors.... I would not use any plug lubricant on the boots as I have read the stuff can cause high resistance if it gets really hot... well maybe just a tiny bit but not on metal plug tops, just the ceramic.

Remember to tighten those spark plug metal screw caps.

I have not read the tip on exhaust gasket lubricants. I never used anything on exhaust gaskets except over torque and then proper retorque value after 300 miles or so.

 

The plug boot protectors are Kevlar and are made to protect them from the heat of the headers. I figure they'll work in this case. I hope at least..

The Ford manual is where it talks about graphite grease, but back then there weren't the options we have now. I sprayed copper on the mating surfaces instead.

New Manifold gaskets, new crossover pipe gaskets, new down tube gasket. Also a bit of exhaust tape on the crossover pipe just in case the clamp didn't do it.

Just waiting on my battery to charge so I can give it a test. Honestly, if this didn't fix it I'm going to bite the bullet and go with headers and custom exhaust. Maybe run stacks up behind the cab.. (not)

In terms of the spark plug metal screw caps - I have no idea what you are talking about..

 

The spark plug metal caps screw on and off like a nut. I guess you can call it a terminal nut. I think this is one of those trivia questions that no one knows to ask. "Why do spark plugs have nuts?"

I do not know the answer but can make a couple observations....
If you are in special conditions, you can use a special spark plug wire with a lug you can put onto a spark plug and tighten the nut to ensure they stay on. I have seen them on oil field pump jacks, some old go carts and mo-peds. I would guess they may be that way on some airplane engines. Other than for high vibration applications I have no clue why the nuts are there but it seems I have run across a foreign car or two or three that had very small female plug wires and someone had taken the nuts off the plugs so the wires fit.... sounds like a good multi-use reason.

Regardless of the waste of good threads and metal..... regardless of why..... it is important to make sure the nuts are tight because over time, vibration can loosen them and the loose nuts will cause missfire or weak spark at the gap.

This is more important today than in the 60's because todays engines are far more sensitive to missfire and the computer can indicate a bad plug or bad wire when it is repairable by tightening the nut.

I came across this on my new 1986 Caprice when the GM dealer scanner picked up on a bad missfire on a cyclinder. They told me to replace the wire or plug myself because those items were not under warranty. I noticed the nut was loose and took it back and they said it retested fine.

Sorry for the long answer.... I am wasting time waiting for the day to cool down so I can go figure out why my 62 75 HP Johnson outboard will not charge the battery which I am sure will be a thrill to work on as the only person crazier than a modern auto engineer is a boat motor engineer of any era. Did you know the old boat outboard engine start solinoids are different than automobile start solenoids? The boat's solenoids goes to ground to start after passing through several limit switches which create a simple ladder logic start circuit........... or just maybe they go to ground so we can have another trivia question to ask.

I am looking for an excuse to go to Wichita so I can see your project, I can not buy guns up there so the only reason to go north is to buy parts. I am looking for a spare 223 engine or spare model 24 transfer case. Any for sale up there? None show up on clist.

 

Haven't seen any dana 24's or such in my area but you never know.
In terms of guns, well I have a few I'm selling if your into antiques - 577/450 Martini Henry..