Coolant Temperature Sender Fitting Solution 96 3.0 Aero
#1
Coolant Temperature Sender Fitting Solution 96 3.0 Aero
For those of you just stepping into this heres what happened to the Aero recently. It was leaking coolant from a fitting (pictured) below that the Ford dealer couldn't find in any of their part lists or order. My Aero is a 96 3.0. So after screwing the temperature sender directly into the block I began to look for a lower radiator hose without a T.
I attempted to order a 94 Aero lower radiator hose from Ford and they said it would take 2 weeks.
So I scratched that idea and after some careful rethinking I was able to build a new fitting for about $5.00 from the Home Depot the fittings are solid brass so they won't rust or corrode like those crap ones they put in.
Simply buy a 3/8" nipple and a 3/8" female T at the Home Depot. Then go to your local auto supply store and buy a 3/8" thread and 5/8" nipple heater hose pipe nipple (not available at Home Depot).
Apply some sensor safe RTV to the threads and Screw the 3/8" nipple into the bottom point of the T then screw (without damaging the nipples threads) then screw the T into the block. Rotate it a few times with whatever you can fit in there I used water pump pliers and a wrench until you feel moderate resistance.
Be sure not to screw your 3/8" thread 5/8" nipple onto the T before screwing it into the block or it won't clear the turn past the heater core fitting turn the T past this fitting then screw your nipple fitting on the bottom section of the T.
You can't rotate the T straight like the original fitting because the hose won't clear the water pump hump. The original fittings nipple was on an angle (see picture). To remedy your straight nipple T you will have to unscrew the T a little until the hose fits on also leave at least 1/4" between the hose and the water pump hump.
You could probably have the hose touch the hump and not have any problems but I feel better giving it a little clearance.
After that put some RTV on your sender unit threads and screw it into the top of the T. Put the hose on the pipe nipple and secure it with a hose clamp. Don't forget to reconnect your temperature sender wire. Your done.
For those curious I posted some pictures here one of the original fitting and one of the fitting I made on the block if you ever have to build one.
The Original Fitting.
My fitting on the block.
I attempted to order a 94 Aero lower radiator hose from Ford and they said it would take 2 weeks.
So I scratched that idea and after some careful rethinking I was able to build a new fitting for about $5.00 from the Home Depot the fittings are solid brass so they won't rust or corrode like those crap ones they put in.
Simply buy a 3/8" nipple and a 3/8" female T at the Home Depot. Then go to your local auto supply store and buy a 3/8" thread and 5/8" nipple heater hose pipe nipple (not available at Home Depot).
Apply some sensor safe RTV to the threads and Screw the 3/8" nipple into the bottom point of the T then screw (without damaging the nipples threads) then screw the T into the block. Rotate it a few times with whatever you can fit in there I used water pump pliers and a wrench until you feel moderate resistance.
Be sure not to screw your 3/8" thread 5/8" nipple onto the T before screwing it into the block or it won't clear the turn past the heater core fitting turn the T past this fitting then screw your nipple fitting on the bottom section of the T.
You can't rotate the T straight like the original fitting because the hose won't clear the water pump hump. The original fittings nipple was on an angle (see picture). To remedy your straight nipple T you will have to unscrew the T a little until the hose fits on also leave at least 1/4" between the hose and the water pump hump.
You could probably have the hose touch the hump and not have any problems but I feel better giving it a little clearance.
After that put some RTV on your sender unit threads and screw it into the top of the T. Put the hose on the pipe nipple and secure it with a hose clamp. Don't forget to reconnect your temperature sender wire. Your done.
For those curious I posted some pictures here one of the original fitting and one of the fitting I made on the block if you ever have to build one.
The Original Fitting.
My fitting on the block.
Last edited by krankshaft; 09-13-2005 at 09:16 PM.
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