With the orange, you can also wire in a resistor to make the idle stay anywhere from 1200-2400, and it will stay there and not vary, using the resistor.
Just out of curiosity, has anyone wired in a potentiometer so they could vary the RPM's manually between 1200 and 2400?
On '06 models there are 2 options for High Idle. Note belowThis is the easy step-by-step instructions to set up your '05 or '06 Super Duty to have a high idle option. This is for diesel trucks with the factory auxiliary upfitter switches. This procedure replaces the need in the older trucks to buy an AIC (Auxiliary Idle Control) module from Ford.
Tools needed:
Ratchet with 10mm socket
Wire stripper
Crimper
Parts:
One butt connector for 18ga wire
How to do it:
Pull the full panel cover off. It's the big panel just below the steering wheel. The top just pulls out from the dash and then swings down to let the bottom catches come free.
Remove the 4 bolts (10mm heads) that hold the fuse panel in place. Pull it out and let it hang down.
Find the upfitter switch you want to use.
Find the SEIC or BCP wire you want to use.
Strip the end of each wire 1/4" and crimp the butt connect on them to connect them together.
Put the fuse panel back in place and reinstall the bolts.
Snap the fuse cover back in place.
SEIC or BCP Wire?
You can hook the switch to either of these wires to achieve high idle. However, they each have slightly different behaviors. If you're doing this mod to help keep the AC cold or the heater hot, or keep the revs up when jumpstarting somebody, then you probably want to use the BCP (Battery Charge Protect) wire. If you're doing this mod to use the PTO (Power Take-Off on your transmission), then you probably want to use the SEIC (Stationary Elevated Idle Control) wire.
If you want to hook up to the BCP wire, find the purple wire with the light green stripe in the bundle just near the top of the emergency brake pedal. Note: don't be fooled into using the light green wire with the purple stripe. That's the output wire for a BCP indicator lamp.
If you want to hook up to the PTO wire, find the solid orange wire in that same bundle (near the e-brake).
Differences in behavior:
BCP
will automatically vary RPMs from 1200 up to 2400 to maintain battery charge
does not lock the torque converter
has an additional wire that is an output that can be used to turn on an indicator lamp to show that BCP is active. i.e. if you want to install an LED in your dash to tell you BCP is on. Since the upfitter switch has a light on the end of this, I don't see much point in this (if you're using a factory upfitter switch).
SEIC
does not automatically vary the RPMs. Sets idle at 1200 (unless you take advantage of the additional control wire).
has an additional control wire that you can hook to a resistor to vary the RPMs. You could install a variable potentiometer (i.e. a knob on your dash) to let you dial in whatever RPM you want, when SEIC is active - from 1200 to 2400 (I think that's the max).
locks the torque converter
Which Upfitter Wire to Use:
There is a bundle of 4 wires. They are just behind the top of the fuse panel. They're all orange, with different colored stripes. They are:
Aux-1 Circuit No 1936 wire color: Orange/Lt. Green [30amp]
Aux-2 Circuit No 1933 wire color: Orange [30amp]
Aux-3 Circuit No 1934 wire color: Orange/Yellow [10amp]
Aux-4 Circuit No 1935 wire color: Orange/Lt. Blue [10amp]
The high idle circuit needs minimal current, so you may as well use Aux-3 or Aux-4 and save the high current switches for something that needs it.
Final Notes:
By far, the hardest part of this (for me, anyway), is actually stripping the wires and crimping on the butt connector. There just ain't that much room on there to fit hands and tools. It would probably be a lot easier if you used a short piece of additional wire and two butt connectors, as the two stock wires don't have a lot of extra length between them to reach each other. Nevertheless, I managed to do it with just the stock wires and one butt connector, so I'm sure you can too.
Once you have this done, to actually try it out, you have to do this:
start the engine.
set the emergency brake.
have the transmission in Park.
do not have your foot on the foot brake.
flip the upfitter switch to the up (On) position.
Once all the conditions are met, the idle will go right up to about 1200. If you step on the foot brake, release the e-brake, or put the truck in gear, BCP (or SEIC) will disengage and the RPMs will drop back down to 600ish. If you undo/redo the correct conditions (i.e. take your foot back off the brake, etc.) the RPMs will go back up within a few seconds.
I did the exact same as listed in this post on my '07 V10 - solid orange PTO wire to #4 Upfitter Switch wire - it raises the rpm on the V10 from the base 650 to 900..
ONLY THING -
I haven't been able to get the variable rpm working using a potentiometer...
Have hooked the Orange/Yellow (PTO_RPM_Select) and the Orange/White (PTO_Engage) but get nothing. Even tried just connecting the two wires directly, without the potentiometer in between - should have got the max (2320 rpm) for a gas engine, but again no effect.
Anyone know what I'm doing wrong?? or what I can try??
thanks
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'07 F250 Lariat Blk CC V10 Auto Chrome Tow Command Moonroof Power Pedals Power Rear Window Captains Seats Compustar 2W900FMR Remote Start/Alarm Marinco block heater High idle/variable rpm Lock 'n Pop power tailgate Line-X Rampage Power Motorcycle Ramp Cloud-Rider grille/bumper screen Duraflaps
Hey guys, I just did my 2006 power stroke with the directions that ryaneverk2 posted above. It went exactly like he said and took me all of 15 minutes. Works great!
I would like the high-idle to work with the parking brake off for winching operations. Any ideas?
Sure, do what I did. Find the wires on the sensor switch and install a switch across them so that when you throw the switch, it thinks your parking brake is on.
It would make our lives easier if you told us what color the wires are. We can all find them but it can get tight under there for some of us. Do u remeber or what?
So you have two switchs to do this; the upfitter main switch and then another you throw to fool the parking brake connection instead of setting it?Couldn't you hook on to one of the parking brake wires 1st and then to the PTO and leave the second switch out?
So you have two switchs to do this; the upfitter main switch and then another you throw to fool the parking brake connection instead of setting it?Couldn't you hook on to one of the parking brake wires 1st and then to the PTO and leave the second switch out?
You have to put power in to get the high idle, you have to short the parking brake wires to fool it. Can't do that with one switch. Most of the time, I leave the parking brake switch on anyway. It doesn't hurt anything. I don't remember off the top of my head which wires, but next chance I get, I'll check and post.
6L PWR, the upfitter switch provides the power as it is hot. The parking brake set is a ground, I think, to the PTO wire to give it the complete curcit.
In the older trucks you didn't have to set the parking brake, just have it in Park so I guess it was grounded to the tranny?
Hey all,
Just finished the upfitter switch and high idle mod on my 07 SD. What a wealth of information this site is. The total instal time was about 45 minutes. Everything was right where Richard Ray said it would be. The parts guy at the Powerstroke Shop was great and cheap. Roughly $80 for the entire kit. $275 at my local dealer and he wasn't to sure about all of the parts needed. The high idle works great. I chose the BCP wire with switch 4. Here's the link again if anyone needs it. http://members.cox.net/richardray/Up..._Switches.html
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HOOH!
Noted from another source
