i need a good combo for a 78 150 with c6 4x4
lookin for mud traits but need it to be workable and everyday driveable if nned be. ive got a holley 600 but need to find an intake.
motor has summit headers.

ive got a seperate motor to be built. just lookin for some guidance.

thanks lookin forward to hearing what you guys think.

busted knucke

 

there are lots of threads in here on building up this motor, dig back a little ways and you will find all the info you need.

A few websites for you
http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/
http://www.off-road.com/ford/flashback/400_power.html
http://www.projectbronco.com/Technic...e_build_up.htm
http://www.geocities.com/styleline58/400.html

 

I put in a Melling 214 duration, RV design in my 351M to go with the Edelbrock 4 barrel intake, 4160 Holley, and Summit headers, does quite well on the street, haven't driven enough to get mileage figured. I have a 78 F-150 4x4 with 5 inches of lift and 35" MTR's, it has the factory 3.55 gears, so mileage may not be figured correctly due to speedometer being off.

 

I have two builds that i want to do. My first (less expensive):est-320hp-460tq
edelbrock 600 carb with performer manifold
xe256h comp cam (or still may go with a hydraulic roller-more expensive but worth it-similar grind)
Badger flat top pistons- 9:1 compression- will run 87 pump gas
roller rockers and double roller timing chain
headers/dual exhaust


Second: Add ausie heads- forged pistons- 12.5-1 scr. Propane as fuel
Est 360+hp and 480+tq

 

Machine shop owner told me it'd require a $1500 head build up to see any signifigance of a roller cam, would be sweet for a heavy build, but I was going light.

 

or aussie heads!

 

Golly, that can't be right. Even with a carbureted engine, I think a roller cam is an awesome upgrade. The valve opening/closing rates of a roller cam allows more lift with less duration and less overlap. That makes more torque and efficiency. Better valve work will enhance the effects of a roller cam, but Cleveland-type heads already have amazing flow.

 

I agree with PC on this one. A roller cam has benefits that no other cam desighn has. mainly more lift per duration wich equal more power and efficiency for the duration range of the cam. These heads due flow, stock 351M/400 heads flow just as good as the GT40+ heads. A little bowl work or bigger valves just adds to their ability to flow ( you definintly want to upgrade to one piece valves). I will definitly go with a hyd roller on my next build (just didn't know enough about them on my first build). Now with extensive porting you might not realize the benefits of, without a large enough cam to use that flow. But a roller cam is what you want (even if you don't know it, yet). If you can afford one and it related components.Thanx

 

Maybe he meant the entire upgrade costs, cam and all? It's for a high revving race engine, I'm into low RPM torquer's, I won't be racing mine. If you do this, tap the high pressure port in the oil galley up front and plumb it to the oil pressure gauge tap in the back, on top to beef up oil to the bottom end. High RPM's tend to leave the main/rod bearings with a low volume of oil, like the 351 Clevelands.

 

Only need to tap the block if your spinning her more than 7500rpms. If your worried about the oiling get a HV pump. I cruise with 50psi hot at about 2100rpm, plenty of oil pressure.
A roller cam isn't just for race engines. Alot of factory engines have rollers in them now because of there increased efficency and power. A roller cam will make more power than any other cam desighn of the same duration. Weither its a 260dur or a 300+dur. If you can afford it go roller. A hyd roller is as maintenace free as a hyd flat tappet cam, it's a win win situation.

 

my impression this far is that tapping is a good idea regardless.

How about the comp roller cams that are not dual duration- you can still get one that should maintain economy and low end torque but can you order a dual duration (energy) roller like maybe 258, 268 advertised???

 

Lot's of people tap or restrict the oil passages, it gives them comfort. Fact is, when they were racing Clevelands (before they where banned) they only needed to tap the block when they where winding the crapp out of em, dodges got tapped also but you never hear them whinning about oiling.
With close tolerances oiling is not a problem on a 400 witch won't see the high side of 5000rpm. Like I said if your worried use a HV pump, you will get all the oil you need to you vital parts. If you still feel you need to tap or restrict go ahead, but its my opinion your wasting your time and money.
Do a search, ask some Q's and you will hear all kinds of opinions, but thats learning. Just my 2Cents. Thanx

 

You're all wrong, tap it if you plan on revving, my engine failed because the previous owner got it stuck and was straining it to get it out, stock rebuild, end result was bearing starvation had it been tapped, it'd have been saved. High volume oil pumps will pull all the oil from the pan before it has time to drain back down.

 

Close clearances and a HV pump WILL NOT empty the pan. Your conclusion is wrong. I have a HV pump and if the pan got drained it would gulp air and pressure would drop. Never has this happened, EVER! Somebody who doesn't know what they are talking about told you that, and your passing bum dope. Probley the same person who rebuilt the engine, then abused it outside of its design perameters, and it ended in engine failure, human error, not a oil pump. Come on from a design standpoint why would somebody design a pump that empties the the oil pan and allow the pump to gulp air and then lose pressure in the block? They do design pumps that can empty the pan, they are called dry sumps and they have a seperate resevior for the oil to be pumped back into the block from.

BUT you did say rev. I never rev my engine more than 5000rpm, it's built for low and mid range torque. I guese if you reved it to 7000rpm and held it there, and used realy thick oil, maybe what you said could happen (maybe), but if your winding it that high you should have probaly tapped your block, as I stated earlier. BUT if your being reasonable with you build and stay below 5500rpm, close tolerances and a stock pump work fine, if worried use a HV pump, at these rpms it doesn't have a chance of draining the pan. Thanx.

 

As for the original Q's
1) 400 crank and flatop pistons
2) 4V valves 1 piece slight bowl blendind and polishing of ex ports (remove bump) stay away from the potbelly smog heads
3)Moderate cam built for torque (rollers are the best) comp cams 270 adv dur and lower are popular dual pattern prefered but not necasary
4)Make sure drivetrain can handle the power
5) Double check all clearances, Twice
Consider
1) roller rockers
2) oiling mods (HV pump, standard, tapped block,*as rpm requires*)
3) alloy heads cvh?, edelblah, ect
4) asking alot of Q's before buying parts and make sure parts will complement each other and will work together for your purposes.

Thanx.