My 98 F150 is dead in my drive way. Will crank but not fire at all.

I recently performed service including running some GM top engine cleaner through the engine to rid it from carbon, oil & tranny fluid change & cleaned my Volant air filter and re-oiled it. (I also found one of those "tornado" things in my intake pipe and tossed it.

I drove the truck only last night since then, only 10 at the most. As I was on my way home the truck didn't feel right. Down on power and some jerkyness. It died just feet from my driveway and I was able to muscle it in with no power.

Only thing I can think of the MAF sensor is fouled from the Air filter oil.

Any ideas? I don't have a scanner (yet).

 

If it is the MAF and it's dirty than clean it with some intake cleaner, spray it on the filament and let it dry. simple and easy. Is the check engine light on? check to ensure that all the sensors are pluged up sometimes they get unplugged by accident. Or you forgot to plug one up. disconnect the battery for 10 min and reconnect and see if that helps.
check to see if any vaccum hoses are disconnected, bascially check every thing out where you worked for anything that seems amis.
Good Luck
as a last resort go buy a scanner I think you can get them for about 100.00$ now and it will always come in handy. for all vehicles.

Lance

 

They will usually run with a dirty MAF, just run lean. I would try spraying it down to see if it starts anyway.

 

if i remember right the truck will start even if the MAF sensor isn't working at all. usually if it's not sending a signal the truck will start run for a few seconds then die.

 

I know you said you don't have a scanner but did the check enging light even come on.

 

there will be stored codes even if the cpu light does not come on. It usually comes on when it is bad enough to worry about. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Lance

 

you are correct, it will only stay on if certain things are wrong. usually if the truck won't even start it is because the computer is stopping it. which usually indicates it found something it really doesn't like and will put the light on. sorry i probably should have been a little clearer.

 

OK heres the deal. I drove it 10 miles last night when it seemed to be missfiring and running rough low on power. Then it quit altogether.

I bought a scanner and it kept reading "fail" but worked fine on my wifes car.

So I dug deeper and found no fuel pressure and the pump relay wouldn't turn on (inertia switch was fine) so I jumped the relay connection to run the pump and it still wouldn't start.

Then I figured that the PCM must be dead, not running the pump or the scanner. I found a bad fuse in the dash #30. PCM diode fuse and replaced it. Truck started but runs rough still. Put it in gear and it dies, engine MIL comes on. Use the scanner and it works this time but says no codes.

Take it for a spin and its still rough. Get home still no codes.

 

fuel filter? and you need to find out why that fuse blew.

 

Its a dead cylinder.

I can pull the injector plug off of cyl #1 and it runs the same. Same thing if I pull the coil pack wire.

Is there any way to check to see if there is the proper juice going to the coil pack?

 

you should get a code for the coil pack. They do go out though. but I would first change the plug before the coil pack. if that spark plug is bad change them all. the plugs are alot cheaper than the coil pack.

Did you try disconnecting the battery yet. Mine would not read my scanner and I disconnected the battery and every thing cleared up.

Still need to fix the bad plug or coil pack, Did you try disconnecting the rest of the coilpacks? to see if they had the same problem?

Sounds like you are getting closer to fixing the problem.

hope it helps

Lance

 

is it a 5.4.? my engine did not code when my coil packs went out. they also worked intermittenly so it was hard to find. you should probably replace it because it might work every once in awhile but it will just get worse.

 

5.4L coil on plug. No code.

I can unplug the injector connector and nothing happens. If I disconnect cyl # 2 it runs rough. If I plug #1 connector into 2 it gets better so I rule out the injector harness.

If I unplug the #1 coil nothing happens. If I unplug any other coil pack it runs rough.

Also brake cleaner burns immediately off of each manifold port except for #1.

I'm going to buy a set of plugs tomorrow and go from there. Hopefully this doesn't turn into a stripped spark plug hole project.

 

I don't think it's a striped plug or it would have popped out. At least you hae it narrowed down to the #1.

Lance

 

I would put my money on the coil. You can get a Noid light at a local parts house that plugs into the injector plug that will flash if the injector is getting a signal from the PCM. A test light or meter will not work.