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  #1  
Old 05-16-2005, 06:54 PM
bigtruck257 bigtruck257 is offline
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patching floor boards

i have holes in my floor boards where the rocker and floor connect they run pretty much the length of the rocker and are probably about 1 inch wide what would be the easiest way to patch these
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Old 05-16-2005, 07:17 PM
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1982fordf100 1982fordf100 is offline
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I did this repair on my 82 F100. I bought repair panels from jeff's bronco graveyard. Cut the old metal out with a cut off wheel and weld in the new piece. It took me about 4 days per side to fix. Fred

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...=57666&width=2

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...=57667&width=2
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1982 Ford F100, rebuilt 300, offenhauser dual port intake, holley 390 carb, EFI exhaust manifolds,walker downpipe, comp cams 260 cam, .020 over, melling oil pump, pioneer harmonic balancer....
1995 Ford F150 300 I6, M5OD and 8.8
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Old 05-16-2005, 07:34 PM
bigtruck257 bigtruck257 is offline
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that came out awesome. the holes that i have on my truck are exactly the same. thanks for the help
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  #4  
Old 05-16-2005, 07:58 PM
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1982fordf100 1982fordf100 is offline
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Thanks its alot of work. What year truck do you have? I have some more pictures if you need some help.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...&albumid=12758
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1982 Ford F100, rebuilt 300, offenhauser dual port intake, holley 390 carb, EFI exhaust manifolds,walker downpipe, comp cams 260 cam, .020 over, melling oil pump, pioneer harmonic balancer....
1995 Ford F150 300 I6, M5OD and 8.8
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Old 05-16-2005, 10:17 PM
bigtruck257 bigtruck257 is offline
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I got an 88 F 250 that is the only thing that is wrong with the truck so it really bothers me you know
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  #6  
Old 05-20-2005, 06:55 PM
tombob tombob is offline
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Here's what I did on my Bronco. Since it is used for fishing, hunting and is not a show truck--strictly utility--and because I don't have a welder, I used fiberglass. first, I cut out all the rusted areas back to good metal. Using fiberglass sheets, I carefully placed three layers over the holes, which were just like you describe.

After those cured, the areas seemed as solid, if not more solid, than the rest of the floor pan. I then went underneath and sprayed undercoating over the fiberglassed and adjoining areas, after making sure I was not spraying it on any rusted areas.

That was nearly five years ago and the repair has held just fine. However, if I had the equipment, I would have done what 1982fordf100 did to his.
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Old 05-20-2005, 08:38 PM
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if you have access to an old refrigerator (sp) you can cut makeshift panels out of it for free......that is what me and my cousin did on his '74
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Old 05-22-2005, 03:19 PM
woodzracer woodzracer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1982fordf100
I did this repair on my 82 F100. I bought repair panels from jeff's bronco graveyard. Cut the old metal out with a cut off wheel and weld in the new piece. It took me about 4 days per side to fix. Fred

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...=57666&width=2

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...=57667&width=2
My '87 has a small hole right at the inner edge of the trough under the door sill. My question is how much does the patch panel you used cover and how mutch did you cut out? Mine seems real solid except for the hole and down in the trough there is some surface rust. Can you give me an idea as to how much you cut out and disassembled. Thanks
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Old 05-22-2005, 07:50 PM
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Ford150/428/dud Ford150/428/dud is offline
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hey

When i had to patch my floor boards i just cut sheetmetal off of my dads box sides on his 77 with the sawzall. Its ok the truck is on its way to the bone yard.
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Old 05-23-2005, 06:10 PM
woodzracer woodzracer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ford150/428/dud
When i had to patch my floor boards i just cut sheetmetal off of my dads box sides on his 77 with the sawzall. Its ok the truck is on its way to the bone yard.
I have another '87 parts truck sitting here with good floors so I was thinking about cutting a patch panel from that one and welding it in, that way all the little factory ripples and bends would already be there. Problem is I looked at it again today and where the floor pan rolls down to form that trough, I think it continues straight down and the door sill, or rocker panel meets it to form the outside of the trough. I'm just trying to see it all in my head before I cut it up so I know how to weld it back in!!!
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Old 05-23-2005, 06:48 PM
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1982fordf100 1982fordf100 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodzracer
My '87 has a small hole right at the inner edge of the trough under the door sill. My question is how much does the patch panel you used cover and how mutch did you cut out? Mine seems real solid except for the hole and down in the trough there is some surface rust. Can you give me an idea as to how much you cut out and disassembled. Thanks
I used these for both sides. I got them from jeff's bronco graveyard. They are aftermarket but they lined up very well. I had to cut out alot because the whole weather strip channel was gone, the area I cut out was about 24 inches long by 4 inches. If you have a small hole get some 18 gauge sheetmetal and make your own patch. I bought a huge piece of 18 gauge sheetmetal (4 x 5 foot) to use to make extra patch panels. It cost me $30 at a local steel shop. Hope that helps, Fred

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...n_80-96_lh.htm
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1982 Ford F100, rebuilt 300, offenhauser dual port intake, holley 390 carb, EFI exhaust manifolds,walker downpipe, comp cams 260 cam, .020 over, melling oil pump, pioneer harmonic balancer....
1995 Ford F150 300 I6, M5OD and 8.8
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Old 05-27-2005, 01:20 PM
JoeBlow JoeBlow is offline
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Cut them out and pop in a clear piece of plexiglass for your floorborads. Wouldn't it be neat to watch the road go by as you drive?
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Old 05-27-2005, 03:51 PM
kenseth17 kenseth17 is offline
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wow, how did you get your steel sheet so cheap. i bought a 4x8 piece of 18 ga last fall and was 65 bucks at the steel distributer here in green bay. Did you check around any of the places that sell replacement panels. Maybe one sells just a section unstead of the whole pan, don't know.
Quote:
Cut them out and pop in a clear piece of plexiglass for your floorborads. Wouldn't it be neat to watch the road go by as you drive?
I think thats what he is trying to get rid of LOL
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  #14  
Old 05-27-2005, 04:00 PM
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1982fordf100 1982fordf100 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenseth17
wow, how did you get your steel sheet so cheap. i bought a 4x8 piece of 18 ga last fall and was 65 bucks at the steel distributer here in green bay. Did you check around any of the places that sell replacement panels. Maybe one sells just a section unstead of the whole pan, don't know. I think thats what he is trying to get rid of LOL
The piece I bought was 4x5, it was half of a sheet, they had a full 4x10 sheet and that was I believe $60. I bought it in Aug 04.
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1982 Ford F100, rebuilt 300, offenhauser dual port intake, holley 390 carb, EFI exhaust manifolds,walker downpipe, comp cams 260 cam, .020 over, melling oil pump, pioneer harmonic balancer....
1995 Ford F150 300 I6, M5OD and 8.8
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Old 05-27-2005, 08:42 PM
woodzracer woodzracer is offline
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After looking a little closer (with my eyes open this time) I finally understand how the cab is put together. When the floor pan makes a 90 degree bend downward to form the inner part of the wiring channel it runs along side and is spot welded to the rocker panel. That is where I got confused. So now I know all I have to do is cut out that floor section, drill out the spot welds and cut a matching patch out of my donor truck, weld it back in and I'll be good to go. It looks much easier than i thought, but thanks to all for your help.

P.S. alot of times steel can be had cheaper in small pieces if you ask the distributor for mill ends. Most steel comes in coils (rolls) and the distributor unrolls it and cuts it into whatever size pieces they need. When they get to the end of the coil, whatever is left is considered a mill end.
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Old 05-27-2005, 08:42 PM
 
 
 
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