What type of manual transmission came with an '84 F-150 w/ 302?

 

Ford 303 3 spd (3 on the tree), Clark SROD 4spd with overdrive (weak), Borg Warner T-18 4spd with granny first gear (concidered bullet proof), New Process 435 4spd with granny low first (also concidered bullet proof)

 

Whoa, thanks. So the SROD is pretty weak? Are there any modifications that acan be done to strengthen it?

I like the idea of a manual shift transmission for better MPG but I don't want one that will tear up easily. Unfortunity I think the truck I'm looking at is the SROD.

 

the SROD would be better for good mileage because of the overdrive...infact im in the process of looking for one right now

 

Don't be scared off by the SROD. My 82 F100 has that trans and the truck has 313,000 miles and the trans has never been opened, just gone through 2 clutches. It doesn't have the granny gear so don't try hauling heavy loads all the time. I does have overdrive though. Fred

 

You will get much better highway mileage with the SROD, however you may find yourself in gear limbo often while driving through town. Also, if your engine is lacking in oomph, accelerating on the highway can be frustrating (spend a lot of time in third gear)! The weakest point of this transmission is the side mounted shifter assy, it wears out quickly and parts are not available. The synchros won't hold up to much abuse either. I am looking for a T-18 to put in my 1980 F-150 2WD.

 

I had an 84 F150 4x4, 302 with the TOD.....the 3 speed with OD....

 

yeah, the TOD is better...if the shifter is in the middle of the floor, it's a TOD. if the shifter is closer to the seat and on the driver's side, it's an SROD. the SROD shifter tends to have more slop, due to the single rail setup. i've come to the poor SROD's defense numerous times, and i think now is appropriate...it really isn't as bad as everyone says. mine has lasted a long time, with plenty of heavy use. if you beat it up, it won't take as much punishment as a Borg or a 435, but used for normal pickup truck applications, it's pretty reliable.

 

The SROD gives terrific mileage and it's because of this that I decided to keep mine (even though the bearings were shot). I was advised many times to give up on it but a full bearing kit was $200 and I got a mechanic friend to do the tear-down and build-up for $200. Now it feels like a brand new tranny, still get great mileage and since I don't do much hauling and no towing, I'm hoping it will last.

 

If you want the best of both worlds go with a Zf 5 speed for a small block. It has the granny first gear and overdrive 4th gear

 

How can you tell the difference between the T-18 and teh NP435?

i think i have a T-18, but need to make sure before i go looking for a new bellhousing for it...lol

 

do the SROD and the TOD's shifter come through the same place as the t-18??

 

No, the T-18 shifter is mounted on top of the transmission and the SROD on the side. Also the T-18 is shorter overall, so you will need a longer driveshaft and the transmission crossmember has to be relocated and drilled out. The transmission mounts are obviously also different. The shifter locates up and to the right of the existing hole by a few inches. It is not a drop in replacement for the SROD/TOD by any means. Better for modified/older vehicles.

 

The TOD shifter is in the same place as the T-18/19 and NP435. The SROD's isn't. If you have a 2WD, the T-18 or NP will be too short, and will require the driveshaft modifications...as Spyder said. If you have a 4x4, a TOD should bolt in, but you may need to play with the cross-member. The t-case bolt pattern is the same.

 

You shouldn't have to change the crossmember, as there is enought movement in it and the rubber mounts (which is the same) to make up for the small difference. As far as the shifter holes, you don't need to cut any new holes for no matter what tranny you have, as the centre floor pan can be removed and replaced with the proper one, personally i would go and cut the center out of an automatic truck, drill the holes for the screws that hold it in, cut a hole for the shifter, and presto you have a smooth flat tranny hump without those irriatating humps from the orginal cover.