I have a 1995 Bronco with a 351W in it the truck runs great but it won’t start from the key it will only start by jumping across the solenoid with a screwdriver. I replaced the solenoid thinking that was the problem but still the same, any thoughts? Thanks

 

Probably a bad solenoid, or else it's the ignition switch or a shorted out wire between the ignition switch and the solenoid. Try the solenoid first, it's cheap and easy. Just because you can jump the solenoid does not necessarily mean that it is good. It could have a broken contact inside of it, so when you jump it you are jumping around the bad contact.

 

I would start with making sure you have 12v going too the solinoid, have someyone turn the ignition switch, while you put a voltmeter on the little wire going too the solinoid, that is the ignition wire.

 

I have that same problem with my 1986 bronco. About 50% of the time it wont start with the key. I still have yet to find the short. Since you said you replaced the solinoid its most likely a short between the ingnition switch and the solinoid. I for some reason couldent find where the short was occouring in mine. I ended up installing a switch that is only on when you push on it. I wired the switch to be hot only when the key is on then a wire went from the switch to the solinoid where I then spliced it into the little red wire on the solinoid. this essentially created a backup ignition system. Depending on your broncos condition I would only do this as a last resort being that mine isnt showroom condition any more. I hope that you have more luck than i did than finding your short.

 

Same thing happened to my '88. It turned out to be the ignition switch. Hope it's that simple for you.

 

OOOPS! I didn't see there that you had replaced the solenoid. Sorry! So move along to my next suggestion and check for a shorted out wire between the ignition switch and the solenoid (the same as what BRK was talking about when he said to check for 12V at the solenoid). If you do not get 12V there, and you probably won't, work backwards until you find it - also you could start at the ignition switch and work towards the solenoid. That would probably be a better idea since there is a good chance that the switch itself is bad.

Anyway sorry for any confusion!

 

Thanks Ill Try that over the weekend when I get some time to play with the toys

 

Hey guys, one other thing to think of.....

I had the exact same issues with my '91. It would intermittently not start with the key. I replaced the ignition switch. Then it got to the point where it wouldn't start period, but it could be jumped across the solenoid. So I replaced the solenoid. Still no joy!

I tried this, that and the other and finally sucked it up and took it to the dealer. Guess what? There is a $50 aluminum rod that runs down through steering column. When you turn the key it cams this rod downwards through the steering column to hit the actual ignition switch down somewhere near the dashboard/column junction. Apparently the rod will 'flatten' out from use - effectively making it shorter - and then it won't go far enough to actuate the bottom switch!

I thought $50 was bad for the rod, but they charged like $200 labor to instal it!!! YIKES! Anyrate, they fixed it and it works fine now.....old key switch works again too!

Just something to think about......hope it's not that bad for you!

 

If it's the actuator rod, I got one the other day from Furd - about $11 down here. It's a royal pita to install, so the $200 was probably money well spent. It took me two evenings of pure frustration to do it. I could do it quicker having been in there though. Satan himself must have designed that linkage. Or so I yelled at the steering column. It didn't help.

 

It does not appear to be the rod, and I know what a pain I did that one in my F250 with tilt, what fun !

 

To clarify, there is a cast metal actuator inside the column, just behind the turn signal switch - there is also a steel rod that attaches to the actuator, The rod links the starter switch to your keyed switch - the cast metal actuator seems to be the weakest link, and the pain to replace. I probably confused some folks when I called the actuator an actuator rod. The two are pinned together.

 

I know what you mean about the rod problem. I've seen it on several Fords, it's like you have to push the key as hard and far as you can to get it to start and eventually it won't start at all with the key, you can't turn it far enough to catch.

 

This happened to me the other day, it was my nuetral start switch. I jumpered it out for now but I need to replace it, I don't have any reverse lights now. Have you tried starting it in nuetral?

Mark

 

I presented in an early post my backup ingnition switch idea. I still think its the best solution to bypass all the trouble. Besides, what fun would it be to work on a ford without occasional screwed up engineering? lol. Good luck.

 

Thanks all for the tips so I still haven't tracked it down, replaced the ignition switch, it appears there is a short between the switch and solinoid. I am new to modern cars with this many wires under the dash, how do I trace down where this wire runs or is this just a job for finding the right wire on the switch and running it directly to the solinoid to get around the short ? THanks again