Hi everyone. I have obtained a 351 Windsor block to rebuild for my 66. It is a 351 WCP-13. It is labeled as a Ford Ensite Windsor Ontario Canada. I don't know one from the other. Is this a good block to rebuild?

 

Is there a casting or part #? It would look something like C90E-B or D90Z-E.

 

I'll get back to you on that when I can check it again with some light. Man I hate winter!

 

Moved to proper forum.

 

I have always thought the 69/70 blocks were the blocks to get but when I surf one of the newer mustang sites I see people asking for 351W blocks from 69 to 74. Not sure what that means and I can only guess that the 69 to 74 blocks are the better of the bunch. I have no proof to back this up nor do I claim it to be true. Only going by what I have read.

 

The older block are a lot biefier I know 69 and 70 are good but am not shure what year they lightened up the castings

 

What vehicles did the '69 to '74 351W come in. I know I've seen some in Vans But the Trucks had 390 & 360, And I've seen clevelands and 390 in Cars.
I'm asking because I'm planning to stomp around the junk yard tomarrow in search of a 351 W to rebuild.

 

The 351 W motors came in almost all of the 2 or 4 door cars of the era, but primarily from 69-72. Galaxies, mustangs, falcons(afew) torinos, etc. In 72 Ford went to Mercury and Lincolns way of the 351 Cleveland for most of the cars, because the cars we getting bigger and they needed more torque and HP to get them going.

The 351W blocks were cast in Windsor canada thus the W. The 351 Cleveland blocks were cast in Cleveland thus the "C".

The windsor block is basically the samne casting as a 302, with the exception that the block has a taller deck, thus giving it a 4" stroke.

Good luck hunting!

 

From what I've read, the 69-74 blocks had a higher nickle content, thus making them stronger. From 75 until the 5.8L came out, the quality of 351W blocks was suspect.

The 351W also came in cougars. Mine is from a 69 cougar.

Interesting enough, the 351W was the only Windsor family engine (ie. 221 - 351) that was actually cast in Windor, Ontario, Canada. All the other SBF's were cast in Clevland. However, because of their shared design, all SBF's are known as Windsor's.

Also, be aware that the deck height on the earlier 351W's was different that later ones.

 

To dotcentral, I finally was able to get a cast number. If you can tell me the stats of this number, I would sure apreciate it. it is FOAE-6015-AA-131 2L3

I am really interest4ed to know the year of this block and if it is worthy of a rebuild?

To Squeak 51, what does SBF's stand for?

 

F is a 90-99 year block
O is the month- October
A is carline = Ford
E is Engineering group= engine - As opposed to B is body, C is chasis
6015 is basic pert number
AA indicated original ford part number

Worth rebuilding? Thats up to you. Is it a roller block? Do you want to go that route and spend that money? Are you building an EFI motor?

Ford crate motors start out at 2500.00 with a warranty.
SBF - stands for Small Block Ford

Ray

 

F0AE is not a roller block

 

MyRoute66, looks like its a 90's block, like was previously posted. I'm no expert on blocks, just trying to help you find the correct part number to get your block correctly identified.

 

Thanks everyone for the info. Building a new motor for my 66 is a new venture for me, and I want to do one that is going to last for a long time, so sorry for all the questions.
What is a roller block? If I buy a crate motor, or rebuild this newer block, do I have to worry about extra ports for emissions garbage? I think I will stick with a carburator because I still like to work on it myself. Would there be any advantage to getting an older block, 69-74?

 

The crate motors are a good bet for your application. Thaey offer from mild to wild, depending on what you want to spend. They are set up for carberation, and come with a warranty from Ford. If you are building a 66 Bronco, you dont really want to mess with EFI - At least I wouldnt want to. It is a lot of extra money to spend to get that extra 1 or 2 mpg . It is true that all the EFI stuff was put on to decrease the emmissions, and to automatically fine tune the engine to the "nth" degree under different load conditions.

With a little practice, you can tune a carburated engine VERY well. My 66 Mustang Convertible starts, runs, and drives better that half of the new junk on the road, and its easy to work on.

Just some rambling thoughts....