Winter in Minnesota ...it gets cold here

Problem surfaced 2 weeks ago with neighbor's 96 ranger. Had sat for 3 days and would not start. Just 2 weeks prior he had service...8 plugs, oil and air filter. New battery he installed himself.

Truck has 142000 miles auto trans 2wd....city driven w/freeway miles.

So when it would not start I tried to help. Neighbor Ted is not mechanic...runs a cafe.

Removed snorkel air tube and tried ether...backfired, put out fire. While he ran kids to school I charged battery and started warming engine with a heat gun (it was warm out...20 degrees, but had been colder prior) so when he returned, we tried again. It would fire sometimes but not enough. I took my turn at the key, he continued with blowing heat at top of intake...put footfeed tofloor and cranked...finally caught a bit, continued to crank caught more finally running...

5 days later it failed to start on a late cold Saturday after he closed cafe. He cranked on it...wore battery down (and I think did a number on the starter) Temp outside was 0 and dropping, stayed that way for days...truck stayed in lot.

Now I knew nothing about modern trucks,,,have an 83 Ford 300cid...but know basics...studied forum...visited truck...rapped on all relays I could see...no manual FYI. Located the Idle Air Control valve...did not have right tools...tried truck...starter drive kicks out. Temp is 6 above maybe 8....it turns once or twice...sometimes a backfire.

Returned on a warmer (16) day w/tools, removed IAC (at rear on 4cyl w/bolts facing to firewall.)..this is for you guys with v6 where it's right out in the open.
Took it home and cleaned it...was not as bad as many have described but did it anyway...returned in a borrowed truck as my clutch rod just broke (another post) and installed IAC. Yes I used anti sieze.

Again rapped on all relays...listened for fuel pump up...3-4 times...OK...heard the whirrrr. So now temp at 26...tried starter...still too cold for worn metal to expand enuf...but can get a turn or two each time tried....no fire, got one backfire.. no start.

So...not IAC cuz it still backfired. In addition to starter so I have a chance, what else?

We have no $200 code machine and do not have unlimited resources....will not buy $250 parts just to "try em". Please stick w/basics and if you know location of part..like that shrader valve I cannot find...tell me.Thanks

 

When an engine backfires it can only be one thing. It is firing with intake valves open, check the spark plug wires VERY carefully to see they are on the proper plugs. did it run ok after the the plugs were changed?
Dave

 

Truck ran fine after new plugs, and also ran fine after the first no start where I warmed it with a heat gun.

See I had suspected that some component was not getting the message that it was winter so I warmed the engine as best I could. After that cold start it had to be run a while at high RPM (2500) til it was in fact warm....then it ran/worked ok. As it was started and run twice a day for a 10 mile trip, it started 3 1/2 more days on it's own....then it got VERY cold and that Saturday night...no go.

Actually I was thinking back to the days of carbs and butterfly valves and then, if choke was open on a cold start (too lean a mix) you would get backfire. We could work through that in those days by manual choking it (and any carb fire would warm the carb up...ha!).

I am certain this truck has never had a new timing belt and has 140M.....what if it jumped a notch to an advanced position?

 

If it ran ok on the last start after it warmed up the belt should be ok, look in the tech sticky on changing belts and see if there is a timing mark you can check. As a last resort check the compression and if it is the valve timimg is off it will be down.
Dave

 

Thanks Dave....had to put off going to where that truck is since am doing work now on my own (this stuff never happens in the summer). Great to hear that the belt is probably OK...sits out front w/cover so should be easy to access to check marks. More later

 

schrader valve is on the fuel rail, the fuel rail feed the injectors, look under the upper intake manifold.

 

My guess would be the ECT(engine coolant temperature sensor) is out of range. It's not terribly common to get a backfire but I have seen it happen when this acts up (yep, too lean). It sounds like it's telling the computer the engine is a lot warmer than it is. The damn things will all but stop working sometimes and never set a code. An easy way to check it is to unplug it. This should turn the check engine light on and force the computer into a default setting for the sensor. Should start with it unplugged but it may still be lean untill it warms up. Location is around the thermostat housing, 2 or 3 wires, about 20 bucks at the parts store. Also, make sure it's full on coolant.

 

Visited online site for view (www.partsamerica.com website is illustrated) of ECT and actually found it.
Niehoff TS82321 $18.99 plus ship...says alternate is FF1314
BorgWarner WT3058 (stamped F5af-Aa says illustration) ...also $18.99

Parts on that site are available locally for that price plus 25% plus tax.

I note the connector is plastic...any retainer clip on same will break upon disassembly in MN cold...this for anyone else in winter area. A virtual guarantee.

What puzzles me is this: That unit must supply info to the on dash guage which according to Ted, works fine. It is located by the thermostat housing?

I will have Ted check coolant level and top off as required. I will find a way to get there and pull connector.(My truck is down now also)

We still have not repaired the starter and may have to drop the shaft and tow it home somehow...cold is coming back.

I will repost when I get closer and thus better info...thanks again.

 

We'll unpuzzle you. The 2 or 3 wire sensor you speak of does supply a signal to the computer. IF the sensor is bad, the check engine light will be set off and a code is in the computer. If you can't even borrow a scanner from a local AutoZone type, don't replace it. Unless your health dictates doing so. This one is the ECT (the "sensor").

The gauge *sender* is underneath the oil pressure sender on the rear of the block, driver's side, but the 95-later might be somewhat different, but the Haynes didn't say. It's a one wire setup and can be a doozy to reach. It is embedded in this lip along the cylinder head. I manage to change mine yesterday, but it was a pain to rethread the new one in....it hit just right and went in and the nearly 2 feet of extensions didn't hurt, either. My gauge shows life now, btw...

 

Thanks Alfred...that does help...and yes, it usually takes about a day to recover from any demanding vehicle work these days.

 

[/QUOTE]We'll unpuzzle you. The 2 or 3 wire sensor you speak of does supply a signal to the computer. IF the sensor is bad, the check engine light will be set off and a code is in the computer. If you can't even borrow a scanner from a local AutoZone type, don't replace it. Unless your health dictates doing so. This one is the ECT (the "sensor").
[QUOTE]

Almost all of the bad ECT's I've replaced through the years have never set a code. They are either registering way too hot or way too cold but are still within parameters. I've found the dang things will almost have to be open or completley shorted to ground before the PCM will kick on the MIL.

 

Found that sensor easily with the help given...and disconnected wires.I attempted to turn it over but can get only 1-2 revs with that bad starter drive. Even so, it fired a couple of times and a new starter and some coaxing (cold again and ice storm) would probably get it going enough to move the vehicle.

The owner and I talked, counted up the known defects on the ranger not mentioned in this thread (142M miles and never a timing belt, cracked windshield, bad ball joint and badly worn tire as result, leaking exhaust at Cat, etc.)

He has an offer from a fellow who eats lunch at his Cafe...believe it's five hundred bucks, and has decided to let it go before it's towed and he is fined. OK with me...not my truck and did not relish the idea of crawling under it in winter to replace the starter (best price we found for a rebuilt was $80 + 16 ship off an Ebay rebuilder store) if that was not going to absolutely cure all ills. I will bet the new owner will do this and it will start and run. Oh well.

I learned a lot here...especially about the problems you fellows face with these "modern" trucks with too many gizmos on them. That's why I still drive my 1983 F 150. If it breaks I can fix it and parts are a lot cheaper.

Thanks again.