Just wondering if anyone has installed a Powertrax No Slip in a Superduty rear axle. How easy was the installation(can a shade tree mechanic like myself do it)? Thinking about buying a new truck with open differential and installing one. My old 1989 F-250 limited slip 4.10 ratio still works fairly well after all these years. My neighbor has a 2004 superduty with a 3.73 limited slip and it hardly works at all. He likes the truck except for this and is considering a lock rite or no slip. If Ford offered a locker from the factory it would be a very popular option. Any information would be appreciated.

 

I would be interested in seeing what others thought of those. My limited slip is ok so I was thing of putting on in the front end.

 

i was looking into the powertrax the other day and sent an email to them to get the part number for the sterling 10.5" rear diff. the sent me an email back and stated that even though it is listed in there lit. that they do not make a powertrax for or trucks. as far as getting a LS for the front diff, if you have a dana 50 (2001 or older) you are out of luck, nobody make one

 

I have the dana 60 3.73 do you know if any makes something for them,or are we just spinning our wheels.

 

Thats what I was gonna do. Buy open diff and install a locker or TWO (don't forget the front...). I have done it on a Toyota. Just take you time. About 3 hours if the directions are easy to read (I had the powertrax). IF YOU DON'T HAVE ANY MECHANICAL SKILLS, DON'T DO IT YOURSELF...). I never had ANY problems with my lockrites. The rear locker will give you 70 % of total torque in the rear end....

 

i think there are some LS's for the 60's (but i havnt research it since i dont have one) you can get a locker for the front dana 50 ("lockright" from richmond gear or an arb) as for the rear you are stuck with an arb,alburn LS or detroit locker.

 

In my opinion, if you are stuck with those choices, get the ARB, just replace those cheesey plastic airlines with steel braided or hardline.
In my rock-krawlin' days, I've seen many a detroit locker break, and those auburn limited-slips, cost MORE than the detroit... plus they are not a locking diffderential...

 

Reider Racing offers the Eaton Posi differential for the rear among others mentioned as well as for the front (Dana 60)


http://www.reiderracing.com/eatonposi.htm

 

FWIW. If you click on the sponsored link - Rocky Road - and click on the Powertrax catalog, they're showing No-spins for Dana axles up to the 80 series. Of course, they show listings for Sterlings too, but evidentally don't make them from what wlihntr got from Powertrax.

I put a No-spin in my F-150 a year ago and it handles everything I throw at it on the farm and never makes a noise or binds in turns. For the price, ease of installation and resale, if you take it out it later, it can't be beat IMO.

BTW, when I bought mine, I found Rocky Road had the cheapest price.

 

As stated in the above reply, Powertrax doesn't offer anything for the 10.5" axle, but they do offer a Lock Rite for the 10.25" axle. If you are lucky enough to have a Dana axle they offer both. Available for a 10.5" axle that i could find are Eaton, Auburn and ARB locker. Also Tractech that makes Detroit locker offers the locker and soft locker which i think is just an updated, smoother, quieter locker for around 500.00. They also have the Detroit Truetrac. Someone may have already posted this but Tractech has a new Progressive Traction Differential that looks like it would be good for both highway and off road and their ad shows Ford Superduties so hopefully it will fit a 10.5". Go to their website and click on what's new for information. I contacted them for information and they e-mailed right back and are sending it through the mail. Does anyone know if it is possible to order a new truck with a Dana axle? Thanks and Merry Christmas.

 

I think the new sd's have a dana 60 F and a 80 R.

 

The rear axel is a Sterling 10.5 on SRW trucks and the Dana 80 on DRW trucks.

 

Unless you have a dial-indicator and inch-pound torque wrench (down to 20 in/lbs, at least) and LOTS of patience, AND understand all the physics involved (and a shop press), do not change rear (or front) gear parts yourself. You can, possibly, take out a carrier and have the limited-slip R&R'd and put it back yourself, but even that's a chore if you don't know what you're doing. And the resuilt will be a lot of metal filings in your diff

The stock Traction-Lok has a break-away torque (according to spec) of 25ft/lbs (with no preload) in the Ford 8.8" (not sure what Sterling's spec is, but it feels the same) - that's not even enough to make the truck move on flat pavement, much less when you're in a tough spot. If you apply the brakes, then apply throttle, you can get the stocker to lockup somewhat more, but don't bet on it.

I put an Auburn HD LS in my '96 t-bird (8.8" Ford) and I could remove the rear wheels with them both in the air, no parking brake - that's gotta be more than 150ft/lbs of breakaway, and because of the cone-shaped clutches, with any preload on it, it acted like a spool.

I have no other experience than the Auburn and the stockers, but I can tell you, anything is better than the stock one - the one in my '74 never worked, it was pointless.

art k.

 

>[QUOTE=krewat]Unless you have a dial-indicator and inch-pound torque >wrench >(down to 20 in/lbs, at least) and LOTS of patience, AND understand >all the >physics involved (and a shop press), do not change rear (or front) >limited-slip R&R'd >and put it back yourself, but even that's a chore if you don't >know what you're >doing. And the resuilt will be a lot of metal filings in your >diff

That's the great thing about the no-slip/lock rite. You don't need to take out the ring and pinion gears, just the spiders and side gears. So you won't need to set up the gears. At least that's how I did it to a few Toyotas.

 

Very interesting! I had heard of such things, but considered them "voodoo" ...