I realize it's an old thread car-guy but I was looking for info on how to do mine today rather than start a new thread and get rhubarb for not using search. Hi 96_4wdr doing fine and yourself? I think this is Aero #6 and apart from a spark plug issue, this axle is the first bit of bother we've had with this beast. I thought it was going to be a tough job and I procrastinated, turns out to be real easy.

 

you got it savage,
Aero is the easiest thing there is to change a CV front axle in.
dreaded and plotted against mine the first time also but lots of good tips on here.
smooth as a gallon of Ben and Jerry's Cherry Garcia
just takes some sorting out for right size of sockets and wrenches.

almost time to do my 2 again.

These Aeros must be an alien design, they just won't die. damn thing runs and rides better now than new
corners better, gets almost as good fuel mileage, hauls 4 times the cargo, rides better no butt fatigue and butt blood loss death, far quieter on road noise than the wifes Honda things

where's Balzac at or should I ask?

 

All true 96, this won't be our last Aero, unfortunately finding a low miler is getting difficult. We still think this is the best little van out there unfortunately so do other owners. Balzac is just north of Calgary Alberta (it isn't what you're thinking) winter road salt is chewing up our beloved 'stars. Have a great weekend everyone, even though it is a somber time.

 

Some of the problems I ran into dealing with the front axle:

The most difficult part of removing the front axle for me was to loosen those nuts that hold the axle housing to those rubber isolators. In my case, one of them had really tight threads, and would not loosen up before turning the stud inside the rubber base. This required some trick to remove the nut, and I really should replace the isolator. But, where to find a replacement? My former local Ford dealer told me they no longer had them, and 4wd Aeros are nearly impossible to find in the local salvage yards.

The original bolts that hold the front half-shafts to the axle flanges have 10mm hex heads. Due to the awkward angle that I had in trying to get a socket over them, I rounded off a couple of the heads during some of the times I've had to disassemble them. I have since replaced them with grade 8 Allen head bolts, which provide much better wrench access.

The little Z-bracket at the left of the pinion nose has a tendency to crack. I welded mine a few years ago, adding a little more metal over where the crack line, and it's held up pretty well.

 

probably been by or thru ur Balzac on one of my hunting or fishing trips in your neck of Alberta.

used to know an old commercial fisherman that kept his Suburans from rusting out by spraying them inside and out with fish oil. You could smell his rig coming before you saw it. He stunk from truck fish oil as back as his truck in the summer heat.
Puke a dog off a gut wagon. Phew.

Lots of the Aero parts Canuck made, maybe that's why they last so long. It's all that French engineering. the A4LD began life as a French Ford design. almost can get a hockey team inside an Aero. Mine used to haul skiers from the airport to the sky lodge in Utah. Still has a couple pounds of melted ski wax in the back carpet.

Perfect rig for those coooollllddd Alberta winters unless the heater craps out. Never been so cold as late moose hunting up there on the gas field roads, wind is like frozen knives, goes thru everything.

 

Yup, drawn for moose up north. Hunt starts in 3 weeks, won't be taking the A'star though.

 

now that's a sight I'd like to see
whole bull moose in back of an Aero

 

The difference would be that the whole moose would fit in the Aerostar without stick out so far!! I remove my seats all the time and use it for hauling. The flat floor is as good as any pick up truck.

 

Sorry, got distracted for a moment. Back to business.

I found this thread because my front left axle has been clicking for a few weeks, getting slowly worse. When the right one did it two years ago, the mechanic rushed to change it, and it cost me $350. This time, assuming I have to change it, I will buy it myself from rock and try to change it myself.

But the question is ... do I have to change it? Or can I ignore the clicking? It only does it on extreme turns like when parking. Ordinary lane changes are still silent.

 

We got our moose and no way in heck would you fit one in a 'star without major surgery. Yes change it, the cv joint will break most likely during the storm of the century.

 

Clicking is getting worse and weather is too. Just ordered one from Rock auto. Part is $41, shipping is $22 !!?? Saw it on ebay for $65 with free shipping. Hard decision... I ended up with Rock because I threw in a few more things into my cart.