I have a 94 ranger, seems if you slam on the brake or just hold the pedal hard the abs and brake light come on. Also seems that the pedal is a bit soft at times. I have canged the master cyl and it does not happen as often. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Is it 4wABS or RABS? Check the fluid level, look for a sticking MC float, make sure the rear brakes are adjusted properly, the electrical connectors at the valve and vehicle speed sensor are clean and tight and there are no praking brake issues. If all of this is OK and it's RABS send me an email and I will help you pull the code. You will need to locate a black wire with an orange stripe, it may have a red wire connected to it. This wire is normally found above the parking brake.

 

Hey there, yup I have a '94 Ranger supercab XLT, 4.0 Man.trans. and I have the same problem. I just bought the truck a couple months ago and have been chasing several problems (in circles) since then. I was sure it was just in need of a brakes front and rear as I could feel there was'nt much to the pedal when applied, but after doing complete front and rear brakes including turning roters and drums the problem was still there. Lights still on. The shop that did the brakes said it was showing a code indicating a rear wheel speed sensor. Replaced that, Still there. Both lights come on after a few miles and the pedal seems a little soft for just having new brakes. If applied real hard, I have noticed the back brakes want to lock up slightly, Hmmm, seems to me that is a little contrary to the whole concept of a a 4wheel ABS system. So, I Was going to buy a scanner to diagnose the problem(s) myself buy am still complating that move after finding out that having 4W ABS requires an OBD-II scanner costing almost twice what the OBD-I scanners used in the Rear wheel ABS cost. Well lets see, It could be an ABS Modulator Valve, or Possibly the ABS Computer Module, What ever it turns out to be, it doesn't sound like it's going to be cheap. Just paying shop charges just to find the prob. sounds like it could cost a chunk of change. Anyway, Still working on finding the prob., when I do I'll let you know. I would appreciate any info. you might find.
Good luck,

KF - rescueranger

 

Send ken00 above your post a message with the answer on the color wire he is talking about and he has the check codes. I had the same problem, bottom line replace the rabs valve ($140 dealer only) and its no longer there.

Got a suspicion both you guys are gonna need one.

Hank

 

Thanks Hank,

That sounds like good advice. I will try and check the connections and other things suggested by Ken00 in his above posting.
I have already checked the connection to the wheel speed sensor when I replaced it. I haven't checked the float in the Master cylinder, wasn't aware it had one but will do that also. If it does end up being an ABS Mod. valve, the best price I have found here in Phoenix is $198.00 at a dealer. Is there a difference in 4WABS modulator valve and the RABS Valve, Could that be the price difference? Or is it just a geographical issue? I did find a Rebuilt one at NAPA for $149.00 or is that not a good idea buying rebuilt? Anyway if you read this Ken00, and I do indeed need to aquire the codes, where might I send you an email? I appreciate all the excellent advice. This is an awsome forum, especially for a new comer to the Ranger world. ( Quite an interesting and sometime complex world it is ) But having a forum like this available to share info. and knowledge sure helps.

I just down sized from a 1997 F-150 XLT 4x4 reg. cab, V8, auto,teal blue.,,,, excuse me but I just had to wipe a tear from my eye. She was a beauty. But There was not room in the Garage for the F-150 and my wifes new car, so to save the wifes paint job from all the bird droppings, I down sized. traded her in for her little sister. Owning the 150 was not nearly as complicated. Of course the extended warr. and the fact it only had 47,000 mi on it when I sold it probably had something to do with it.


Thanks you guys,

KF

rescueranger

 

>Thanks Hank,
>
>That sounds like good advice. I will try and check the
>connections and other things suggested by Ken00 in his above
>posting.
>I have already checked the connection to the wheel speed
>sensor when I replaced it. I haven't checked the float in
>the Master cylinder, wasn't aware it had one but will do
>that also. If it does end up being an ABS Mod. valve, the
>best price I have found here in Phoenix is $198.00 at a
>dealer. Is there a difference in 4WABS modulator valve and
>the RABS Valve, Could that be the price difference? Or is it
>just a geographical issue? I did find a Rebuilt one at NAPA
>for $149.00 or is that not a good idea buying rebuilt?
>Anyway if you read this Ken00, and I do indeed need to
>aquire the codes, where might I send you an email? I
>appreciate all the excellent advice. This is an awsome
>forum, especially for a new comer to the Ranger world. (
>Quite an interesting and sometime complex world it is ) But
>having a forum like this available to share info. and
>knowledge sure helps.
>
>I just down sized from a 1997 F-150 XLT 4x4 reg. cab, V8,
>auto,teal blue.,,,, excuse me but I just had to wipe a tear
>from my eye. She was a beauty. But There was not room in the
>Garage for the F-150 and my wifes new car, so to save the
>wifes paint job from all the bird droppings, I down sized.
>traded her in for her little sister. Owning the 150 was not
>nearly as complicated. Of course the extended warr. and the
>fact it only had 47,000 mi on it when I sold it probably had
>something to do with it.
>
>
>Thanks you guys,
>
>KF
>
>rescueranger
Since you have 4wABS you will need to pull the codes with an OBD-II scanner using the standard ODB-II port. I have the pinpoint tests for OBD-II so if you do invest in the scanner I will help with the tests. By pulling the codews you will avoid replacing good parts. There is a email icon under my name on the lefthand side of the screen. I think I would go with new since brakes are important but that's just my opinion. Good luck with the truck.

 

Thanks Ken

Sounds like good advice. I never have liked buying rebuilt parts in gen. (knowledge aquired at the school of hard knocks) And like you said, and I certainly agree, "brakes are important" Amen on that one. Anyway still deciding whether to shell for the scanner. The email issue I figured out after posting (sorry, I'm a newbee). Also if you would look at my new post re: Cold air systems I would greatly appreciate any info you might have in this area.
Thanks again for your response.

Kelly
rescueranger

 

Ken unless a 4x4 he should have rear abs not 4w I think. As mine is also a 94 and rabs was standard.

If its rabs call another dealer I paid the $140 in Sierra Vista AZ and he was cheaper than the ones in Tucson. These are rebuilds as there is a core charge for the exchange and I was told new are not available and none of the places in tucson (autozone, checkers, NAPA all told me "Dealer Only".

You could order at sierra vista ford and they will UPS?Fedex for ya.

The $198 might be with the core need to check on that also.

Hank

 

Hank

I'm sorry that I didn't clearify I DO have a 4x4. And it is 4WABS, this might be the difference. ?? I am considering just buying a new 4WABS modulator unit and hope thats it. But if I buy the 0BD-II scanner and then find that the prob is the 4WABS unit, and it's seeming more likely all the time, then I'll be the price of the scanner ahead of the game. Will definately purchase one down the road a bit but am working with ltd. funds for now. Still not sure which way I'll go at this point. I will shop around a bit more but so far that is the best I have found. Mabey NAPA is still an option, they did say they had on in stock. Well thats good food for thought. Thanks Hank.

Kelly
rescueranger

 

The truck has rabs not 4 wheel. I will check the rear adjustment and other parts. The front brakes were just changed and the rears also. It failed before the brake job and after. Where is the speed sensor located ?
Brian

 

Brian

I just changed the speed sensor on my truck. It is located on top of the differential, just above the U-Joint, toward the front.

Kelly
rescueranger

 

>Hank
>
>I'm sorry that I didn't clearify I DO have a 4x4. And it is
>4WABS, this might be the difference. ?? I am considering
>just buying a new 4WABS modulator unit and hope thats it.
>But if I buy the 0BD-II scanner and then find that the prob
>is the 4WABS unit, and it's seeming more likely all the
>time, then I'll be the price of the scanner ahead of the
>game. Will definately purchase one down the road a bit but
>am working with ltd. funds for now. Still not sure which
>way I'll go at this point. I will shop around a bit more but
>so far that is the best I have found. Mabey NAPA is still an
>option, they did say they had on in stock. Well thats good
>food for thought. Thanks Hank.
>
>Kelly
>rescueranger

Some of the parts stores will pull the codes for you, might want to look into it.

 

>The truck has rabs not 4 wheel. I will check the rear
>adjustment and other parts. The front brakes were just
>changed and the rears also. It failed before the brake job
>and after. Where is the speed sensor located ?
>Brian

If you need help with the codes let me know, the sensor is cheap and easy to change.

 

Ken

WOW, you know, sometimes my mind just wont let things be simple. After calling my local dealer to make sure they had the 4WABS valve in stock so I could pick one up tomorrow and replace it , I went out this evening and went through all the little things you had mentioned that we should start with. I checked the MC float, seemed to be working OK ( though the fluid looks pretty grungy) , next I checked the connections that you had suggested , pushed them in and out, wiggled them around making sure they were snapped in and making gook contact, I included the connector to the MC ( not sure how much that pertains) anyway, I went through all of them thinking to myself "nope those are all fine, just as I thought, I need a new 4WABS Valve. I went back in the house, got cleaned up and proceeded to my parents in law for dinner. I kept waiting for the warning lights to come on,,,,,, They never did and as I pulled off the freeway and rolled up to the traffic light I noticed that my brakes were much more responsive and the pedal had a normal feel to it. And sure enough, I stopped several places after that and the lights never came on. THANKS KEN ! ! ! Your simple approach and strait forward advice saved me a nice chunk of money. Sometimes we have to learn the hard way,,,, I'm glad this was not one of those times.

Thanks Again

Kelly
rescueranger

 

Great news.