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Need to replace the alternator...buy one cheap?

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  #1  
Old 10-29-2004, 05:25 PM
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Need to replace the alternator...buy one cheap?

I have an ugly squeek coming from the front bearing on my alternator and it's driving me nuts. I need to replace the alternator but don't want to spend the 200 plus bucks to buy new from the dealer, budget issues, I could get one from a junk yard but then I don't what problems I'm inheriting! Is there anywhere to buy a rebuilt or remanufactured alternator and not break the bank? The next big question is what amperage alternator is the one I have? It is a 95 xl 4x4 with the 5.0 with a/c. Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks, Mark
 
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Old 10-29-2004, 06:32 PM
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I've been running an aftermarket rebuild on my 90 F-250/5.8 for two years now without any charging issues.
 
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Old 10-29-2004, 06:39 PM
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alternater

You could rebuild it if you can find a good place. I rebuilt mine two times in 15 years. Aftermarket with a lifetime warranty is also good way to go.
 
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Old 10-29-2004, 11:15 PM
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I woul uggest a duralast gold alternator that autozone carries. Not only are they brand new and not rebuilt, they have high amp ratings. My 1988 4.9 came stock with a 60amp alt. the replacement was 80 amp and cost ~ 120.00$ and has a lifetime replacement on it.
 
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Old 10-30-2004, 07:59 AM
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Thumbs up

I bought a rebuilt w/lifetime limited warranty from Discount Auto Parts at 165K and now I have 235K on the motor. Still going strong.
 
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Old 10-30-2004, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by ford4.9
I woul uggest a duralast gold alternator that autozone carries. Not only are they brand new and not rebuilt, they have high amp ratings. My 1988 4.9 came stock with a 60amp alt. the replacement was 80 amp and cost ~ 120.00$ and has a lifetime replacement on it.
I have one of the Duralast Gold alts on the wifes '89 S10 Blazer 4X4 and have had no problems with it in 3 years!
 
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Old 10-30-2004, 05:34 PM
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Whatever you do don't buy the cheap one, we had 3 of them catch fire...... We finally spent ~$100 on one and it lasted.
 
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Old 10-30-2004, 07:43 PM
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I'll go against the recommendation on the Autozone alternator. Go somewhere else. I replaced my stock alternator when it died with the Duralast, then it became a yearly replacement item. Sure, it was free each time with the lifetime warranty, but there's the chance you get stranded, and the added (albeit small) hassle of replacing it (I had it to under 10 minutes in the AutoZone parking lot).

BTW, if you do get a new one, make sure that the pulley is the same diameter. If not, you may have to swap it with the old one.

Jason
 
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Old 10-31-2004, 12:12 AM
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I've ran the rebuilts for years with over 100k on all of them. Just get a good one from one of the better stores. I've had some problems with parts from Auto Zone (bad power steering pump and two bad starters).
 
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Old 10-31-2004, 01:33 AM
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Go to your alternator rebuilder and buy new bearings and new brushes, $10-$15. Take it apart and put them in yourself, it is not difficult. Ask them about soldering the connections inside and outside, it helps. These alternators will put out more amps than they are rated for and the plugs are not up to the job. They are better soldered. If you do this right you will end up with a better alternator than you can buy.

If you are not sure about this go to a junkyard and get a core alternator to practice on.
 
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Old 10-31-2004, 05:38 AM
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I've heard the both stories, the kits can be easy or a pain in the ****... What is this soldering you speak of?
 
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Old 10-31-2004, 09:02 AM
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I was gonna rebuild the one on my Suburban but the voltage regulator is soldered in instead of screwed. The rebuild kit was $35 but I had to buy a new one for $120 because I didn't want to mess with cutting wires and soldering. Not that its rocket science but I'd just rather not. Sounds like HardScrabble is saying to solder in the connections instead of screw them in. It probably is a better connection but screws have been working in these things for years. If yours doesn't require soldering then just go ahead and follow the instructions on a rebuild kit and do it yourself. It'll probably cost you less than $20. All there is to a rebuild is bearings and brushes. That's it. The hard part is knocking out and replacing the bearings and that's not hard. The next best thing is to do is find a local auto electrical shop and take it in to them to rebuild. They're usually half the price of a rebuild in a parts house. These guys make a living rebuilding starters and alternators for local parts shops, mechanics, and dealers. If you were to take your vehicle into a Sears for instance and they pull an alternator off the shelf and swap it with yours, all they do is send yours to one of these local rebuilders and they'll just put it back on someone elses car. I had my car in one of these shops once because I had an electrical problem. One of the guys spent the entire morning while I was there rebuilding alternators for someone. Its their bread and butter, they do a good job, and if you have problems you can always take it back to the guy who rebuilt it for you. That's the route I'd go if you don't want to do it yourself.
 
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Old 10-31-2004, 11:35 AM
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There is a plug inside the alternator when you split the halves. The alternator shop told me to solder it instead of plugging it. I plugged it but thought I would pass the advice along. My plug looked good, I would solder it if it needed attention. I am not sure what the outside plug upgrade is all about, there are posts here about it. I was on my way out of town and threw in some bearings and brushes and didn't look back. Never bought a kit, kit sounds like 'pay extra'.

Now my air pump is making noise, I haven't ever taken one apart.
 

Last edited by HardScrabble; 10-31-2004 at 11:38 AM.
  #14  
Old 11-01-2004, 08:46 AM
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Do like HardScrabble. Two bearings and two brushes and done. A kit is just those items in a box. $10 max.
 
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Old 11-01-2004, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by jroehl
I'll go against the recommendation on the Autozone alternator. Go somewhere else. I replaced my stock alternator when it died with the Duralast, then it became a yearly replacement item. Sure, it was free each time with the lifetime warranty, but there's the chance you get stranded, and the added (albeit small) hassle of replacing it (I had it to under 10 minutes in the AutoZone parking lot).

BTW, if you do get a new one, make sure that the pulley is the same diameter. If not, you may have to swap it with the old one.

Jason
I agree with you if you are buying one of there rebuilt units, yet the duralast gold is brand new and should not be compared. I have never had luck from chain autopart stores with rebuilt parts.
 


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