I've got a 56 F-250 and I'm told my family swapped out the original 223 for a 57 292 about 30 years ago. That engine is still in the truck and I'm trying to get smart on keeping it going. I'm an auto mechanic rookie but figure these kinds of motors are the best place to learn.

As far as verifying it is a 292, I went on John Mummert's website and compared the casting number. It is stamped ECZ 6015A which he says can be either 292 or 312 depeding on stampings on the main bearing caps or crank flange. Is there any way to tell the difference from the outside?

I just tuned it (dwell 26deg, timing roughly 10 deg BTDC) and it idles fine, but driving around it feels like it is missing periodically. I replaced the points, condensor, rotor, and cap. The plugs and plug wires are only a couple years old, but the coil has not been changed in recent memory. Should I replace it? Do I need to learn how the vacuum advance works and tweak it somehow? Or is it most likely a carb problem?

Thanks,
Rob

 

You can get a little better idea, though still not positive id, if you look at the heads, check their casting marks and see if they are consistent with a 312.

 

I'll give that a shot. I have a feeling it will be tough to find the casting numbers, though, as the gasket on my exhaust manifold seems to be in the area that John Mummert recommends looking.

Looking again at John's site, it looks like alot of heads shared the same numbers for both engines, like ECZ-G in 1957 for example. Is there something other than the casting numbers that stands out? I guess I should also ask if it really matters at this stage, since both engines have the same tuning specs and I assume valve adjustment specs.

Thanks for the feedback,
ROB

 

Rob,
The type of unknowns that you have drive me nuts when it involves my own engine. Examples: When my motor was rebuilt the machine shop didn't give me a deck height or the amount of surfacing they did to the heads. It bugged me for years (this has been a long project). Finally I tore down to the small block and found some answers that didn't just satisfy curiosity but helped a lot in the overall project.
On the miss. I would replace the coil, just because it could be decades old. If the family swapped out the engine 30 years ago the distributor could be that old also. You might want to exchange it at NAPA for a rebuilt one, for $60.oo or so. The carb is sure a suspect also. It could use a rebuild kit, including new power valve and accelerator pump (don't know what carb you have). Clean it up with carb cleaner and blow out the various ports with compressed air.
Hang in there. You know more now than when I started my project. Mike

 

You said the plugs and wire are a couple years old, they should be changed roughly every 60k miles. It may just pay off if it's been sitting a while.

 

All engines in 57 used the ECZ-G heads. The ecz engine used alot of the best components, the g heads as stated , high ratio rockers, and the distributor was the best for the 57and 58 years. 90% of the ecz blocks were 312's and you are correct in your ways of finding out what yours is. I have a 57 ecz block and it turned out to be a 292.

At least pull the plugs and inspect to see if there is any fouling (oil or fuel) and make sure the plug wires are not oil soaked or rubbing on anything.

Kevin

 

What about the 59 292. I know they used the correct heads but is all the other stuff as good as well. Ed

 

Okay. if it runs fine while idling, but misses somehwat upon driving it, sounds like a weak spark, or timing that is advanced to far, or carburetion issues. I would go ahead and change that coil, and use a test light to check every ignition wire at its end from its source, and remember where many people make a mistake, id you cannot use a resistor type spark plugs in a regular points type coil vehicle. the best way to know you have plugs that aren't resistor type, if they are resistor type they will have an R somewhere on them. As far as knowing whether you have a 292 or 312, get your block numbers and head numbers and check it out from there,,,Good luck!!...Janet

 

Thanks for all the good advice. I'll probably go ahead and replace the plug wires, plugs, and coil just to eliminate them as possibilities. If it's still missing I'll look into a rebuilt distributor next.

ROB

 

I think I read the other day about the 292 that 10 degrees btdc is the MAX to set it; back it off to 5 or 6 to start.

I like to time by ear, then check static to make sure I'm not too far off. After warm, I listen for the 'note' of where it is running comfortable. Then I slowly retard the timing and listen to where the 'note' of the combustion drops slightly lower. Then I advance it just inside the edge of the 'good note' area. This gives it plenty of room to advance.

 

I'll give that technique a shot, with all the other things in place.

Thanks!
ROB

 

Here's something i would do were it me,take that darned vaccum line off by the carburetor, make sure you're getting suction, then take that valley pan PCV part off and make sure it;s not all slugged up....Janet

 

I can't find any sort of opening in my valley cover other than the oil filler tube. That leads me to another question...

If in 1956-57 there was no PCV system, where was the road draft tube originally? My oil filler cap has a 1/2 inch flanged hose connection coming off it (with no hose). My passenger side valve cover has a 1/2 inch hole in it that looks suspiciously like somebody tried to put in PCV at some point, but there is no place for it to connect to the air cleaner, or to a vacuum source on the carb. I've researched ways to install PCV from this website, but is it any big deal to just run the road draft tube like originally designed? (pollution concerns aside for the moment... )

ROB

 

You are right. in 1956-57 there was NO PCV SYSTEM, referred to in the previous post. This has been talked about a lot with confusing results. Your engine should have a road draft tube/cannister assembly mounted on the left side of the block. The idea of crankcase ventilation is that there is a source of fresh air and a means of exiting crankcase gases. In Out. If you were to use the filler cap's 1/2 flanged hose connection, and put a PCV valve between it and the carb, and put on a base plate to the carb and tap that, and take off the road draft tube and seal it's block opening with a plate, where is the IN OUT. It is right there in one and the same place, meaning you won't be exhausting as much crankcase gases as you should and you won't be pulling in as much fresh air as you should. I don't think there is a good, easy way to adapt a PCV, except to put on a later model rear vented valley. If not that, then I suggest keeping the road draft tube. My 3 cents worth. Mike

 

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the sisw rube gad halnogeleem off. I never had a problem,,,,,Habet