Spark Plug Change on E-350/V10
#1
Spark Plug Change on E-350/V10
Has anyone changed the plugs or had the plugs changed on a V10 in a van? How hard/long of a job was it, or how much did it cost to have it done? Our E-350 with V10 needs plugs and at least one coil pack, and I'm wondering whether we should try to do it ourselves or just cough up to have the dealer or a shop do it.
Thanks,
Isaac
Thanks,
Isaac
#2
#3
Keep the plugs and get the single coil on plug replaced. An independant can change the coil plug for about $200 (pull the code for the coil, pull the coil, verify the coil, replace the coil). Dealer in my area wanted $175 just to tell me what I already knew, a coil was bad. I've got 95K, same set of plugs, 2 coils so far.
#4
Originally Posted by IJRoorda
Has anyone changed the plugs or had the plugs changed on a V10 in a van? How hard/long of a job was it, or how much did it cost to have it done? Our E-350 with V10 needs plugs and at least one coil pack, and I'm wondering whether we should try to do it ourselves or just cough up to have the dealer or a shop do it.
Thanks,
Isaac
Thanks,
Isaac
#5
#6
It's not as bad as it looks.
Start by removing the front seats. it makes getting into the engine way easier.
They only take 5 minutes to remove.
Take a look at https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=104027
It's not exactly the same but pretty close.
Start by removing the front seats. it makes getting into the engine way easier.
They only take 5 minutes to remove.
Take a look at https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=104027
It's not exactly the same but pretty close.
#7
Sweet post that you linked to, thanks. I have been pretty intimidated, but it appears that it's just like any other plug change, just a bit different. I'm looking at my doghouse, and it's looking like I should be able to get to most of the plugs on my V-10. But my-oh-my, if I have to try and get to some of the plugs from the front, with the 16 inch hood opening, and all the rest the doodads that the vans have poking out the front,,,,I just can't say anything else that would be considered polite conversation,,,, But your link to your post was awesome, my thanks ! Ken
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#9
Wow, great thread! I had to tell my wife that I did'nt know where the plugs were located on my E-150 4.6L van. I'm no slouch at mechanical stuff but I hav not kept up with the new vehicles and their systems. After reading these threads I think I can do this. With the help of forums like this we can survive. Thanks everyone for sharing the info. When I changed the ball joints last month I wrote up my experience at the van forum hoping someone else can benefit from it. At 60000 miles I have experience a 4-5 mpg decrease in gas mileage over a 2000 mile trip. I am wondering if a plug change will help. I have also noticed the tailpipe looks a little blacker than normal. Running rich? There are no service lights coming on. Is it worth changing the plugs out?
Sometimes on startup after sitting for a couple of days the engine runs rough for about 10-20 seconds and then clears up. Like it was loaded up or starving for fuel? I have not noticed any sevice lights but I will have to pay more attention the next time it happens
Thanks,
Rick
Sometimes on startup after sitting for a couple of days the engine runs rough for about 10-20 seconds and then clears up. Like it was loaded up or starving for fuel? I have not noticed any sevice lights but I will have to pay more attention the next time it happens
Thanks,
Rick
#10
Originally Posted by formyfordvan
Wow, great thread! I had to tell my wife that I did'nt know where the plugs were located on my E-150 4.6L van. I'm no slouch at mechanical stuff but I hav not kept up with the new vehicles and their systems. After reading these threads I think I can do this. With the help of forums like this we can survive. Thanks everyone for sharing the info. When I changed the ball joints last month I wrote up my experience at the van forum hoping someone else can benefit from it. At 60000 miles I have experience a 4-5 mpg decrease in gas mileage over a 2000 mile trip. I am wondering if a plug change will help. I have also noticed the tailpipe looks a little blacker than normal. Running rich? There are no service lights coming on. Is it worth changing the plugs out?
Sometimes on startup after sitting for a couple of days the engine runs rough for about 10-20 seconds and then clears up. Like it was loaded up or starving for fuel? I have not noticed any sevice lights but I will have to pay more attention the next time it happens
Thanks,
Rick
Sometimes on startup after sitting for a couple of days the engine runs rough for about 10-20 seconds and then clears up. Like it was loaded up or starving for fuel? I have not noticed any sevice lights but I will have to pay more attention the next time it happens
Thanks,
Rick
#11
#12
I did this job last summer and would agree with everything thats been posted. Def. remove front seats and air intake assembly. Before you remove the old plugs be sure to blow out the socket where the plugs sit with some compressed air so nothing falls into the engine as you remove the plug. I also got a small telescoping mirror so you can check to make sure theres nothing left in the hole before you remove the plug.
Take your time and start with the easy ones. Give yourself all weekend to it right.
Take your time and start with the easy ones. Give yourself all weekend to it right.
#13
I'll throw a few things into the mix for those who've not yet read the numerous threads about plugs and COP's in the Mod motors........
-Use nothing but Motorcraft plugs as spec'd! This is due in part to a supposed difference in the cylinder head threads which makes any other brand not really compatible and able to torque or seal as Ford engineers orginally designed. It also seems the MC plug design is actually best for performance and fuel efficiency too.
-For your own comfort read a bit on the site blownsparkplugs.com which gives a lot of helpful advice and food for thought. Its just good reading even though I personally don't agree with everything they say about using anti-seize on the plug threads.
-Definitely use a nickel-based anti-seize on the plug threads and carefully torque them to at least 21 foot/pounds---factory calls for 7-13 ft/lbs but the plug threads can stand a bit more IF this is done carefully. (Again read blownsparkplugs.com!!)
-Definitely replace the boots ($8 each @ NAPA) and enough dielectric grease to exclude atmospheric moisture from migrating inside. Check the wiring harness connectors for the COP's, listening for a "click" when they're seated into the COP. (Make sure to put a dab of dielectric grease inside these connectors too!) When I changed plugs one of my connectors lost its locking ability and I chased a MIL misfire for a while before stumbling upon this. IF one of these needs replaced NAPA # EC259 for about $20 each does the trick.
-Definitely remove the front seats, air cleaner and maybe the throttle body inlet tube too-----not a bad time to check that duct for anything out of place; oil inside (bad PCV valve) or ill-fitting vacuum connections too. While you're at it check and maybe clean the MAF sensor---lots of threads about this procedure here, in the Mod motor forums both V-8 and V-10.
Read, read and read again threads here about plug changing-----do your research and take notes too-----in the end you'll be glad you did! This isn't the most difficult job done on a van BUT it is time consuming and just a bit scary the first time out-----too much misinformation and shade tree mechanics who've contributed to the myth blown plugs are just a matter of course for these motors. It does happen but probably more often than not due careless or clueless attempts which turn out to be the direct cause.
Tons of info here about this---search!!
-Use nothing but Motorcraft plugs as spec'd! This is due in part to a supposed difference in the cylinder head threads which makes any other brand not really compatible and able to torque or seal as Ford engineers orginally designed. It also seems the MC plug design is actually best for performance and fuel efficiency too.
-For your own comfort read a bit on the site blownsparkplugs.com which gives a lot of helpful advice and food for thought. Its just good reading even though I personally don't agree with everything they say about using anti-seize on the plug threads.
-Definitely use a nickel-based anti-seize on the plug threads and carefully torque them to at least 21 foot/pounds---factory calls for 7-13 ft/lbs but the plug threads can stand a bit more IF this is done carefully. (Again read blownsparkplugs.com!!)
-Definitely replace the boots ($8 each @ NAPA) and enough dielectric grease to exclude atmospheric moisture from migrating inside. Check the wiring harness connectors for the COP's, listening for a "click" when they're seated into the COP. (Make sure to put a dab of dielectric grease inside these connectors too!) When I changed plugs one of my connectors lost its locking ability and I chased a MIL misfire for a while before stumbling upon this. IF one of these needs replaced NAPA # EC259 for about $20 each does the trick.
-Definitely remove the front seats, air cleaner and maybe the throttle body inlet tube too-----not a bad time to check that duct for anything out of place; oil inside (bad PCV valve) or ill-fitting vacuum connections too. While you're at it check and maybe clean the MAF sensor---lots of threads about this procedure here, in the Mod motor forums both V-8 and V-10.
Read, read and read again threads here about plug changing-----do your research and take notes too-----in the end you'll be glad you did! This isn't the most difficult job done on a van BUT it is time consuming and just a bit scary the first time out-----too much misinformation and shade tree mechanics who've contributed to the myth blown plugs are just a matter of course for these motors. It does happen but probably more often than not due careless or clueless attempts which turn out to be the direct cause.
Tons of info here about this---search!!
#14
Wire bundles?
Quick question...
Did you guys pull the wire bundles? or did you just work around them? I was thinking about zip tying the cylinders together (injector and coil) and just pulling them all out the cab of the van to make the job that much easier.
I am doing this as gingerly as possible, but I know I am going to bust some plastic...those little fastener hoobies are replaceable right? or can I just use good ole zip ties?
So far, PCV, DPFE, EGR all removed and ready to be replaced...TONS of oil in the air intake...bad pcv right? Anything else I should look for while I've got it all tore up?
Thanks guys
Did you guys pull the wire bundles? or did you just work around them? I was thinking about zip tying the cylinders together (injector and coil) and just pulling them all out the cab of the van to make the job that much easier.
I am doing this as gingerly as possible, but I know I am going to bust some plastic...those little fastener hoobies are replaceable right? or can I just use good ole zip ties?
So far, PCV, DPFE, EGR all removed and ready to be replaced...TONS of oil in the air intake...bad pcv right? Anything else I should look for while I've got it all tore up?
Thanks guys