Camshaft Sensor/Synchronizer Replacement
#166
03-19-2010, 08:42 PM
Anyone have any ideas for what is going on here?
I am trying the voltage change method for lining up the cam position sensor.
I am checking the voltage in the blue and orange wire as I move the synch around, but it is always at 12 volts! It never goes to zero, so I cant tell when the vane is passing under the sensor.
Is it supposed to be 12 volts when it is under the sensor or 12 volts when it is not under the sensor?
I have a '94 ranger 2.3 -- is the wiring different on those?
I am trying the voltage change method for lining up the cam position sensor.
I am checking the voltage in the blue and orange wire as I move the synch around, but it is always at 12 volts! It never goes to zero, so I cant tell when the vane is passing under the sensor.
Is it supposed to be 12 volts when it is under the sensor or 12 volts when it is not under the sensor?
I have a '94 ranger 2.3 -- is the wiring different on those?
#167
05-01-2010, 09:00 PM
95 B4000 4.0 Cam Position Cross Compatibility?
Please help, also in 4.0 forum, thanks.
95 B4000 4.0 Cam Position Cross Compatibility? - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
95 B4000 4.0 Cam Position Cross Compatibility? - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
#168
05-07-2010, 11:18 PM
#169
06-22-2010, 11:12 PM
r&r Auto
We get ours sycs, from carquest. They run about $47.00 and they come with the insertion tool. We do them all the time and we put #1 tdc and go back about a inch. We then place the syc in with the arrow on the tool facing just to the left of the mounting screw hole. It works everytime.
#170
06-27-2010, 06:09 AM
#171
08-08-2010, 09:52 AM
Camshaft Sensor/Synchronizer Replacement
There is one bolt holding the shaft in place. It is difficult to see, and you may want to remove some of the wires in that area. I used a 1/4" drive ratchet with a long extension and a u-joint to get it out. I think it is a 10 mm head. If you get #1 cylinder on top dead center, remove that bolt, the shaft will pull out easily. Look at the position of the open slot on the new shaft, and if you don't have the alignment tool, make sure the shaft is down in place just like it looks where the red arrow is pointing on the picture you posted. You need to start the shaft about 75 degrees ccw because of the gear bevel. When the shaft is in place, it should be turned about 45 degrees left of the engine centerline, and the interrupter should look like the picture above. Or you can get the tool at most parts stores. Hope I didn't confuse you too much. Keep us posted. It's really not too difficult. I had mine changed and working in about 25 minutes and 2 beers.
#172
08-12-2010, 09:33 PM
So this is what happens when you don't replace it. Failed while I was going 65 on the interstate. No oil pressure but luckily the motor didn't seize up. So yeah, It's definitely a good idea to replace it before **** hits the fan.
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#173
08-29-2010, 04:18 PM
New CPS design in 99?
I've got a 99 making the infamous chirp from high in the back of the engine. One guy has told me it's the throwout bearing, but the clutch still works the same as it always has, there's been no change in the pedal pressure, and the trannsmission is as easy to get into gear as it's always been. I've listened pretty closely under the hood and the chirp is NOT muffled at all as I'd expect from something in the transmission. A Ford dealer told me it was the CPS and reading this thread I'm pretty sure that's got to be it.
The dealer quoted about 430 to replace the whole shebang, which doesn't sound bad, as prices for these jobs go.
I read in this thread, however, that sometimes replacing just the sensor up top was sufficient to cure the noise. I pulled the sensor off (with great difficulty) today but found that the magnet in my 99 appears to be quiet solidly mounted in the outside edge of the sensor cap, different from the earlier designs I've seen:
My impression is that this part is okay, and it's the shaft sticking down into the block that needs replacing. AutoZone sells the whole thing, cap and synch, for 52 after core charge. Regarding the other part, however, the "vane" that sticks up appears much different than in the older designs I've seen pictured. It doesn't come near to forming a "C" shape, the vane is only maybe 20-30 degrees of the circle. My question is, does this apparent redesign mean the old syncro tool will not work with the newer design of CPS? If the tool still works, I'll still be ahead if I buy one and do it myself, but don't want to bother if the tool is not applicable to a 99. And I don't trust myself to do this "by hand".
The dealer quoted about 430 to replace the whole shebang, which doesn't sound bad, as prices for these jobs go.
I read in this thread, however, that sometimes replacing just the sensor up top was sufficient to cure the noise. I pulled the sensor off (with great difficulty) today but found that the magnet in my 99 appears to be quiet solidly mounted in the outside edge of the sensor cap, different from the earlier designs I've seen:
My impression is that this part is okay, and it's the shaft sticking down into the block that needs replacing. AutoZone sells the whole thing, cap and synch, for 52 after core charge. Regarding the other part, however, the "vane" that sticks up appears much different than in the older designs I've seen pictured. It doesn't come near to forming a "C" shape, the vane is only maybe 20-30 degrees of the circle. My question is, does this apparent redesign mean the old syncro tool will not work with the newer design of CPS? If the tool still works, I'll still be ahead if I buy one and do it myself, but don't want to bother if the tool is not applicable to a 99. And I don't trust myself to do this "by hand".
#174
08-29-2010, 05:17 PM
I've got a 99 making the infamous chirp from high in the back of the engine. One guy has told me it's the throwout bearing, but the clutch still works the same as it always has, there's been no change in the pedal pressure, and the trannsmission is as easy to get into gear as it's always been. I've listened pretty closely under the hood and the chirp is NOT muffled at all as I'd expect from something in the transmission. A Ford dealer told me it was the CPS and reading this thread I'm pretty sure that's got to be it.
The dealer quoted about 430 to replace the whole shebang, which doesn't sound bad, as prices for these jobs go.
I read in this thread, however, that sometimes replacing just the sensor up top was sufficient to cure the noise. I pulled the sensor off (with great difficulty) today but found that the magnet in my 99 appears to be quiet solidly mounted in the outside edge of the sensor cap, different from the earlier designs I've seen:
My impression is that this part is okay, and it's the shaft sticking down into the block that needs replacing. AutoZone sells the whole thing, cap and synch, for 52 after core charge. Regarding the other part, however, the "vane" that sticks up appears much different than in the older designs I've seen pictured. It doesn't come near to forming a "C" shape, the vane is only maybe 20-30 degrees of the circle. My question is, does this apparent redesign mean the old syncro tool will not work with the newer design of CPS? If the tool still works, I'll still be ahead if I buy one and do it myself, but don't want to bother if the tool is not applicable to a 99. And I don't trust myself to do this "by hand".
The dealer quoted about 430 to replace the whole shebang, which doesn't sound bad, as prices for these jobs go.
I read in this thread, however, that sometimes replacing just the sensor up top was sufficient to cure the noise. I pulled the sensor off (with great difficulty) today but found that the magnet in my 99 appears to be quiet solidly mounted in the outside edge of the sensor cap, different from the earlier designs I've seen:
My impression is that this part is okay, and it's the shaft sticking down into the block that needs replacing. AutoZone sells the whole thing, cap and synch, for 52 after core charge. Regarding the other part, however, the "vane" that sticks up appears much different than in the older designs I've seen pictured. It doesn't come near to forming a "C" shape, the vane is only maybe 20-30 degrees of the circle. My question is, does this apparent redesign mean the old syncro tool will not work with the newer design of CPS? If the tool still works, I'll still be ahead if I buy one and do it myself, but don't want to bother if the tool is not applicable to a 99. And I don't trust myself to do this "by hand".
The design of the newer sensor looks to be very similar to the older sensor design, and in all likelihood works the same way.
So you'd want to line it up in a similar fashion using the special tool, and/or making your own index marks, and/or using a multimeter, as some people posted about previously.
#175
11-02-2010, 12:22 PM
Hi,
I have a 2000 3.0L auto trans ranger and i have been having some problems with the camshaft sensor.
It has started coming on so i replaced the sensor. It seems that everytime i am driving in wet or misty conditions, the truck throws the code. I swap out the sensor, clear the codes and it runs fine. When it gets wet or misty again the truck does the same thing all over again.
When this happens the truck runs terrible from idle to 2000 rpm, it bogs and surges, and once i get past that it runs fine.
What I am wonder is if it is most likely wiring running to the sensor and if driving the truck when the sensor is acting up will damage the truck. (It is my only vehicle.) The truck has a ton of miles on it and this is the first problem i have had with it so i really cant complain but would like to get this problem taken care of ASAP, Thank you!!
I have a 2000 3.0L auto trans ranger and i have been having some problems with the camshaft sensor.
It has started coming on so i replaced the sensor. It seems that everytime i am driving in wet or misty conditions, the truck throws the code. I swap out the sensor, clear the codes and it runs fine. When it gets wet or misty again the truck does the same thing all over again.
When this happens the truck runs terrible from idle to 2000 rpm, it bogs and surges, and once i get past that it runs fine.
What I am wonder is if it is most likely wiring running to the sensor and if driving the truck when the sensor is acting up will damage the truck. (It is my only vehicle.) The truck has a ton of miles on it and this is the first problem i have had with it so i really cant complain but would like to get this problem taken care of ASAP, Thank you!!
#176
11-25-2010, 09:01 PM
My dad has a 00 ranger with the 3.0 the shaft failed on me driving on the interstate the oil preasure gauge was not working and yes I locked the engine up well almost long story short dad rebuilt the engine got it all back together lined the shaft up and now it is throwing a missfire 1 and 4 so we pulled the shaft reinstalled it put on a new cps and still missfire 1and 4 but the only plug it keeps fouling is 5 we are at a loss and he is ready to take it to the stealership or burn it one.... I would like some help... Oh and it is the flex fuel........Im a big ford guy but this engine is a pos.....
#177
12-20-2010, 07:25 PM
96 Ranger decision
Hey,
Great post, stumbled on it while trying to research a pickup i'm thinking of buying. It a 96 ranger 3.0 Liter. When I test drove it noticed the check engine light was on. I had them get the codes and it's reading cam shaft sensor. I got a little nervous hearing this and wanted to research before committing. I'm hoping I can get a little advice. Based on peoples experiences with this would you buy the truck in this condition and have it repaired, or steer clear and find something better. They are saying they will replace the sensor, but now am nervous what kind of shape the synchronization shaft may be left in. Appreciate any thoughts!
Great post, stumbled on it while trying to research a pickup i'm thinking of buying. It a 96 ranger 3.0 Liter. When I test drove it noticed the check engine light was on. I had them get the codes and it's reading cam shaft sensor. I got a little nervous hearing this and wanted to research before committing. I'm hoping I can get a little advice. Based on peoples experiences with this would you buy the truck in this condition and have it repaired, or steer clear and find something better. They are saying they will replace the sensor, but now am nervous what kind of shape the synchronization shaft may be left in. Appreciate any thoughts!
#178
12-21-2010, 01:31 PM
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#179
12-27-2010, 07:53 PM
#180
12-28-2010, 01:42 AM
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