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Leaking Rad. fluid between engine and trans.! Please help!
I have a 94 2.3l, I just finshed putting my rebuilt engine back in it, it runs perfect. Now it leaking radiator fluid down the back of the engine somewhere, it starts dripping from where the engine and transmission bolt together. Does anybody got any ideas on where the fluid could be leaking from, the fluids perfectly green almost. Thanks for the help in adavance.
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94' ranger 4.0 v6
-Soon to race class7
You may have a small diameter hose that routes around the backside of the head to the bottom of the intake manifold. It is less than 1/2" in diameter, and connects to a 'T' fitting on a heater hose. That may be the leak, or you may have a head gasket leak, or an intake manifold gasket leak. Look at the sides of the block, and at the back side of the cylinder head. Try doing this before the engine gets so hot that the coolant will evaporate from the hot surfaces. Loose hoses are a lot easier to fix...
good luck
tom
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It's not how hard you work, it's how much you get done. Simplificate and add lightness
Certainly possible. When you did the block, did you inspect the freeze plugs? If they showed any sign of corrosion, they were on their way out. Any sign of rusticles or dripping, bad news.
You may be able to get a dentist style mirror to look at the back of the head. If it is in the head, you'll be best off by removing the head for repair. If it is a freezeplug behind the clutch plate or flywheel, you'll have to drop the trans to get at it.
tom
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It's not how hard you work, it's how much you get done. Simplificate and add lightness
I found out that one of the ones on the side is leaking, possibly the other one's to, I just need to take a closer look. Is there away to seal them off with out having to take the engine out or the head? Can you just put some sort of sealer around the freeze plugs? Thanks
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94' ranger 4.0 v6
-Soon to race class7
You can buy replacement freeze plugs made of some rubber type compound, with a flat washer and a bolt/nut. Use a cold chisel (screwdriver) to poke a hole in the old leaky one, and pry it out. Clean the hole as best you can, and push in the rubber one, tighten the nut. The rubber ones are just easy to put in, as you don't have to try to pound on something hidden behind a manifold or whatever.
tom
__________________
It's not how hard you work, it's how much you get done. Simplificate and add lightness
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