Ok I was wondering which Y-Block has the most power and availability for aftermarket add-ons. I was wonderng about the 312 in particular but I am still learning so you tell me.

 

Most parts are interchangable among the Y-blocks. The 312 will have the most power - there is no replacement for displacement. The 292 blocks bored out to 312 and a 312 crank turned to fit are the best way to go because they offer a little more support at the mains. For a lot of information about parts go to "www.ford-y-block.com." Also check out "www.y-blocksforever.com." Most aftermarket parts will fit most Y-blocks.

 

Thank you. I have the yblock 239 and was trying to decide whether to replace or modify. I think will upgrade to the 292 and modify. Keep the original and maybe rebuild it for posterity. Ed

 

239 parts are scare and pricey.
I built a .060 292 for my 54 F350, found a 64 F600 292 with a forged crank.
Going the 312 crank into a 292 route for the Altered roadster.

 

Yes that is what I am thinking of doing. Driving the truck while rebuilding a 292. From what I hear that is the only way to go and then boring the cylinders to make them a 312 and using a 312 crank. I am also looking into the 4 b carb manifold that seems to be everywhere. The idea of dealing with multiple carbs is not a good idea. You guys articles are helping me a bunch. I was leaning toward the 292 already and that article did it. One other thing, did they ever install a AC on Power Steering pump on any of these 292's. I would like to go that route to add pw steering or an AC. I do not like the idea of fabing crap to put on a motor.

 

When I was a kid my Dad had a 1964 Ford F250 with 292, factory power steering, and an add on AC made by Mark IV. It was the custom cab with zippered pockets in the doors. It had a great sounding dual exhaust. The little 292 had a lot of gusto on the takeout. The only thing it needed was one of those add on dual ranges that you put in the driveline behind the tranny, since it ran about 2,800 RPM at 60 mph. It still rates as my all time favorite pickup. They certainly don't make them like that any more.

 

i would have to said 292 best 4 after market , but that because i have one 4 five,s year,s now in a f 700 dump just rebuild it once,s and found 4 conrods
turn that wrong way still laugh about the one today , they very strong v8 ford new how to build them bye 4 now

 

Myself, i think the most dependable Yblock was the 1954 239, but yes parts are scarce for those. I also think the 272 Yblock is a better engine. 292 Yblocks are more easily attained and can be machined to be wonderfull engines, and if you can get a truck 292 yblock "cite", that baby has a steel crankshaft in it. The 292 is a good and available engine and has plenty of power, just beware of those rear oil seals, and it's the best one.....Janet

EDIT: Forgot to add, you really do not want a 312 yblock, reason why, is because they had unrepairable cracks where the mains bolted on in most of them, and a 292 has just about as much power anyway

 

I owned a 292 57 Ford station wagon as a teenager that had AC, it had that 2 cylinder AC compressor on it...I'm also with you on not wanted 3 carbs on an engine. Before i rebuilt my 1959 Cadillac that had 3 carbs on it, what i did, was locate a 1960 cadillac (same 390 engine) that used one 4bbl carburetor, i just put that intake manifold and carburetor on the 390 Caddy and saved the other with the 3 carbs on it. On that AC on that 57 Ford station wagon, i'm not sure it came factory with it or not....Janet

 

Dang Janet. I forgot I started this thread. I never had a 239 but at the time I did not know it. My truck came with a 272 and I have refreshed it. I am rebuilding a 292 for bad *** performance and so far I am finding parts real easy and affordable. I cannot wait to see what kind of power I get to that rear end. Ed

 

I have two 292 vehicles, one is a 63 Ford pickup unibody, and the other is a 55 ford fairlane sedan, i have 2bbl motorcraft carburetors on both of them, and just regular points and coil on both, with dual exhaust on both, with the cheap dual setup where the drivers side curls underneath the drivers side, and the right engine side has it hammered in on front and welded closed, so they are stock stock and plain stock, and i baby mine to make them last, but i will add if i wanted to, i could burn some serious rubber with either one of them!! When i rebuilt my 292 in the 63 ford truck, i bored it 20 over, and left everything stock except i added a delco remy one post self exciter alternator on both of the vehicles so i could rid myself of voltage regualtor issues...But back to square one, after the pickup 292 was rebuilt and i was breaking it in, i outran from takeoff and at 70MPH plus a new Dodge full size with V8 and a 1997 Ford pickup with a V8..292's are not wimpy engines, it's just my personal opnion that 239's and 272's held together better is all....Janet

I forgot to mention it, but i did two other non stock alterations on both my Yblock vehicles, next to the frame in front of the fuel filter, which is a big metal filter, i added that 100 dollar Holley electric fuel pump on both of mine, you just turn on the key and you hear it lightly buzzz a few secons, pump the accelerator one time, and bongo, starts right up, even in the winter i don't have to use a chocke on my carb....janet

 

Yep mine came with an electric fuel pump. I was going to replace it with a new mechanical but now I do not know. Ed

 

Oh yes, keep the electric fuel pump, and carry a spare...See what it is... i hate in tank electric fuel pumps, but outer mounted types i like, one reason i prefer their use (outer mounted electric pumps), is because it saves your starter, provides great startups and saves your electrical...It really does over the long haul....Janet

PS. Make sure your fuel filter is located behind the electric fuel pump, and also don't have one up by the engine, put an electric pump under your cab, that way it runs cooler and last longer. Your best one is that 100 to 110 dollar Holley electric pump, it's well worth the investment, then carry a 30 dollar cheapo as a spare with you....Janet

 

Someone I know burned his truck to the ground because of an electric fuel pump. The float in the carb stuck and that pump flooded the engine compartment with gas before he could shut it down. Thanks, I'll stick to mechanical, since when the motor stalls it stops pumping.

 

It;s only mechanical god sense to know when an engine stalls that has an electric fuel pump, to either have a dash togo switch to turn it off, or turn the darned key off, plus the holley i speak of only puts out so much pressure then simply free spins, why on earth didn't he have enough mechanical aptitude to turn the key off if he had no togo switch control??? Plus it matters what type electric fuel pump he was using as well as what type carburetor...This one was the friends lack of knowledge and mechanical aptitude....Janet....Newer cars have electric fuel pumps and when they stall their electric pumps keep running to, but for gosh sake turn the igniton off....Janet