96 Explorer "misses" during accel at low rpm (usually in OD)
#61
Originally posted by tankhokie
UPDATE
I have pinpointed the problems range...it is at 40mph and rpm's at 1500 during an uphill climb with steady accel pedal pressure (not enough to change gears) also will happen around 60mph with low rpm but not as pronounced.
Could it be that the tranny isn't supposed to drop that low during a load situation?? Anyone else hit around 1500 at 40mph right before the upshift?
UPDATE
I have pinpointed the problems range...it is at 40mph and rpm's at 1500 during an uphill climb with steady accel pedal pressure (not enough to change gears) also will happen around 60mph with low rpm but not as pronounced.
Could it be that the tranny isn't supposed to drop that low during a load situation?? Anyone else hit around 1500 at 40mph right before the upshift?
#62
babalu
If that were true, I probably should be tried for treason against Ford!
Hey thanks for the tip, I am up for trying anything. I will take a look at your link too.
jfsledge,
I know you are working off the older ODB system, but did you pull the codes from that CEL? They would still store in memory even if the light went out...but erase after a lengthy battery disconnect Just wondering what your computer was saying.
I don't think of this as a saga....just a good hobby
EDIT
good night! that was a long posting babalu....looks good, even though it may come out to be mine is sitting around .96v
not gonna hope for too much, but again, definitely worth the try
I know my credibility has suffered severly
Hey thanks for the tip, I am up for trying anything. I will take a look at your link too.
jfsledge,
I know you are working off the older ODB system, but did you pull the codes from that CEL? They would still store in memory even if the light went out...but erase after a lengthy battery disconnect Just wondering what your computer was saying.
I don't think of this as a saga....just a good hobby
EDIT
good night! that was a long posting babalu....looks good, even though it may come out to be mine is sitting around .96v
not gonna hope for too much, but again, definitely worth the try
Last edited by tankhokie; 02-11-2004 at 09:21 AM.
#63
Originally posted by tankhokie
UPDATE
I have pinpointed the problems range...it is at 40mph and rpm's at 1500 during an uphill climb with steady accel pedal pressure (not enough to change gears) also will happen around 60mph with low rpm but not as pronounced.
Could it be that the tranny isn't supposed to drop that low during a load situation?? Anyone else hit around 1500 at 40mph right before the upshift?
UPDATE
I have pinpointed the problems range...it is at 40mph and rpm's at 1500 during an uphill climb with steady accel pedal pressure (not enough to change gears) also will happen around 60mph with low rpm but not as pronounced.
Could it be that the tranny isn't supposed to drop that low during a load situation?? Anyone else hit around 1500 at 40mph right before the upshift?
I am experiencing a very similar problem. During low RPM's (Usually under 2000 RPM's) around 40-50mph & 60-70mph(OD on) or around 30-40mph (OD off), while trying to keep a steady/cruising speed or trying to climb a slight incline, you can feel & hear the X bog down.
Like you, I don't think the trans is supposed to drop that low at the times it is. Seems that that 2nd shift, 3rd shift & TC lock-up is happening prematurely, but the tranny shop & Ford say it looks OK. I really believe it's something telling the trans to act like it is. But replacing parts left and right gets costly.
Now my X isn't picking up speed like it used to, I get my doors blown off by 1st Gen Caravans. I've had this problem for 1.5yrs now, with NO resolution. Ford has looked at the X 4 times while I have taken it to some Local shops 5 times and nobody has been able to find the problem. I have replaced the FPR twice now, because this is what they thought it was. Otherwise I have spent over $1000 in parts so far, and it's still not fixed.
It all started with a bad #4 plug, which tripped the CEL. Had Ford replace the plugs and wires and clear the CEL. Since then, I've had the problem. Strange part is I have never tripped the CEL this entire time with the X running like this. All the shops (Local & Ford) basically told me without a CEL, they really wouldn't be able to find anything wrong. Which I know is B.S., but I don't have much time on my hands and the equipment to test parts myself.
Keep us posted with any results you may find. Look for some old posts by V8EXPLR, which will further describe some of the issue I am experiencing. There is also this guy I speak with on another forum strictly for Explorers which is having this problem as well. He's been dealing with it almost as long as I have, and he has been unable to find a fix either.
#64
Originally posted by tankhokie
jfsledge,
I know you are working off the older ODB system, but did you pull the codes from that CEL? They would still store in memory even if the light went out...but erase after a lengthy battery disconnect Just wondering what your computer was saying.
I don't think of this as a saga....just a good hobby
jfsledge,
I know you are working off the older ODB system, but did you pull the codes from that CEL? They would still store in memory even if the light went out...but erase after a lengthy battery disconnect Just wondering what your computer was saying.
I don't think of this as a saga....just a good hobby
#65
jfsledge,
in a 1992, like yours, you really do not need a code reader. All you need is a short piece of wire called a jumper.
Haynes manuals, websites and probably here somewhere will show you how, it is simply plug the wire in 2 sockets, unplug a SPOUT connector, and count the flashes of the CEL (they come in timed sequence)
After 95/96 they went to the ODB II system, spits out stuff too large and fast to be flashed by the CEL...hence the 150 dollar reader...ugh. luckily Autozone does it for free
V8EXPLR,
yep, this is a tricky one. I just found another forum about X's that I am searching. It is probably something very small that we are overlooking or too tech to check (like some weird pressure valve in the tranny)
Not gonna give up on this one!
in a 1992, like yours, you really do not need a code reader. All you need is a short piece of wire called a jumper.
Haynes manuals, websites and probably here somewhere will show you how, it is simply plug the wire in 2 sockets, unplug a SPOUT connector, and count the flashes of the CEL (they come in timed sequence)
After 95/96 they went to the ODB II system, spits out stuff too large and fast to be flashed by the CEL...hence the 150 dollar reader...ugh. luckily Autozone does it for free
V8EXPLR,
yep, this is a tricky one. I just found another forum about X's that I am searching. It is probably something very small that we are overlooking or too tech to check (like some weird pressure valve in the tranny)
Not gonna give up on this one!
#66
Originally posted by tankhokie
...count the flashes of the CEL (they come in timed sequence) ...
...count the flashes of the CEL (they come in timed sequence) ...
I'll give it a try next time, I have the Haynes and will use its guidance.
Thanks for the tip.
#67
tankhokie: I believe as well that it is some small part or sensor which is reading slightly off, but still within specs to not trip the CEL.
Good luck on finding the problem. Like you, I'm going to continue until this problem is fixed (just as I have for the last 1.5 yrs), just have to watch the budget as this problem is getting expensive.
Keep us informed.
Good luck on finding the problem. Like you, I'm going to continue until this problem is fixed (just as I have for the last 1.5 yrs), just have to watch the budget as this problem is getting expensive.
Keep us informed.
#68
babalu.
WOO HOO (Not for the X though )
thanks for the suggest on the TPS voltage fix...I haven't checked my X's volts but as I was pressure testing my 92 Bronco's cooling system, I figured why not check...
It read .82 volts so I did the fix (easy) and set it to exactly .96 volts. Went on a test drive and it really made a difference. The Bronco seemed to have a spongy accelerator pedal until now. I can feel a pick-up in accel when I mash the gas and it feels more like a 5.0 now.
As far as the X, the accel is great so I don't have my hopes up but I am going to check it out.
I'll keep posting as I find out more...thanks again
WOO HOO (Not for the X though )
thanks for the suggest on the TPS voltage fix...I haven't checked my X's volts but as I was pressure testing my 92 Bronco's cooling system, I figured why not check...
It read .82 volts so I did the fix (easy) and set it to exactly .96 volts. Went on a test drive and it really made a difference. The Bronco seemed to have a spongy accelerator pedal until now. I can feel a pick-up in accel when I mash the gas and it feels more like a 5.0 now.
As far as the X, the accel is great so I don't have my hopes up but I am going to check it out.
I'll keep posting as I find out more...thanks again
#69
#70
Well I got the X TPS exactly set to .96 volts. It was just a little off, reading .88 volts, so I didn't immediately notice the difference in accel...but again, that is not my daily driven car (my wife's)
Well unfortunately the chuggin is still there, I am going to start doing more t-shooting on the tranny, haven't done a lot there.
As always I will keep everyone updated.
Well unfortunately the chuggin is still there, I am going to start doing more t-shooting on the tranny, haven't done a lot there.
As always I will keep everyone updated.
#71
Well for what its worth I feel your pain. My wife's 2000 4.0 SOHC just started the same symptoms. Does it around 45 just after it shifts to OD and I give it the gas. It does it around 75 mph if it encounters a hill (even a small one). The missing stops if I let off the gas a bit.
My first SWAG is that it is the intake manifold O rings. I believe that the conditions that cause the problems are whenever there is a high intake manifold pressure situation. When this occurs air is sucked past those lousy O rings and it creates a mis fire in one or more affected cylinders. Which ever ones leak air.
She has the car today. I'll retorque them (or perhaps replace them) tommorrow and let you know.
My first SWAG is that it is the intake manifold O rings. I believe that the conditions that cause the problems are whenever there is a high intake manifold pressure situation. When this occurs air is sucked past those lousy O rings and it creates a mis fire in one or more affected cylinders. Which ever ones leak air.
She has the car today. I'll retorque them (or perhaps replace them) tommorrow and let you know.
#72
Ok the results are ........ Im fixed. Now what exactly happened in my case. I got new upper and lower intake o rings. (Since I own 2 Explorers Im experianced with changing the o rings) The upper intake bolts were not tight. (Which is really just snug in some circles as the torque for these is low 53 - 62 INCH pounds.) The lower manifold bolts were tight. I replaced both seals as I was that far into the job and the parts were purchased...
Unfortunetly I also started looking at the coil pack and I checked the resistance with it. The primary check showed no resistance (should have been 0.3 - 1.0 ohm) and the secondary resistance was ok. Since the car runs ok most of the time I ignored these findings. I also found that some high paid dealership mechanic broke the lock tab off the coil (where the wire connector inserts) AND did NOT correctly seat one of the spark plug wires into the coil pack. That lead was very corroded and failed the ohm test for spark plug leads. It wouldnt conduct anything. So I also replaced my plug wires (cant buy just one).
Now the car runs great. It accelerates without any miss or hesitation. The unfortunate part is that I cannot relate exactly what fixed it. Obviously the plug wire was bad. I still suspect the torque of the upper manifold bolts and a possible air leak. Last year we had the dealership replace the thermostat. To do that they removed the upper manifold for access. It could be my prejudice against the dealership or I could of had two problems. A air leak and a bad spark plug wire. In either case if have this problem I suggest you look in these two areas.
Unfortunetly I also started looking at the coil pack and I checked the resistance with it. The primary check showed no resistance (should have been 0.3 - 1.0 ohm) and the secondary resistance was ok. Since the car runs ok most of the time I ignored these findings. I also found that some high paid dealership mechanic broke the lock tab off the coil (where the wire connector inserts) AND did NOT correctly seat one of the spark plug wires into the coil pack. That lead was very corroded and failed the ohm test for spark plug leads. It wouldnt conduct anything. So I also replaced my plug wires (cant buy just one).
Now the car runs great. It accelerates without any miss or hesitation. The unfortunate part is that I cannot relate exactly what fixed it. Obviously the plug wire was bad. I still suspect the torque of the upper manifold bolts and a possible air leak. Last year we had the dealership replace the thermostat. To do that they removed the upper manifold for access. It could be my prejudice against the dealership or I could of had two problems. A air leak and a bad spark plug wire. In either case if have this problem I suggest you look in these two areas.
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