Custom Sound System
#1
Custom Sound System
I just got my new F150 Super Crew. Mine only came with the single CD/Cassette player. I will soon upgrade the sound system to something much better including satellite radio. I'm not a bass head but I like plenty of bass to go along with the crisp highs from aftermarket speakers. I'm curious as to what some of you other SCREW owners have done in the line of a custom sound system. How many speakers can it handle? What size sub can it handle? Is there room for a good system? What is my best approach?
Thanks,
Thanks,
#2
I just finished the system in my supercrew. Ive got two 10" kickers under the rear seat ( get the box from subbox.net ) with boston acoustics in the doors. I have an alpine amp under each front seat, one powering the subs, the other powering the door speakers. I have an alpine head unit #7995, because it doesnt have an internal amplifier...cleaner sound comes from using two amps. The head unit is XM-ready, all i needed was the antenna and the receiver, which we mounted behind the rear seat.
It rocks!! Post some replies if you have any questions, i'd be glad to share any information you might need!!
It rocks!! Post some replies if you have any questions, i'd be glad to share any information you might need!!
#4
I'm too new to this forum to contact MXracer324 directly. So, I'll just add onto this thread.
I thought I read somewhere that adding this subbox actually increased the height of the back seat a few inches ... giving backseat passengers a better view. True?
And what did YOU do with the jack? Relocate it? Where?
How hard of an install is this subbox? I don't have my SCrew yet, but I've read that I might run into issues with getting the back of the seat to connect with the back wall again. Yes/No?
Any and all other info and/or advice would be greatly appreciated.
I thought I read somewhere that adding this subbox actually increased the height of the back seat a few inches ... giving backseat passengers a better view. True?
And what did YOU do with the jack? Relocate it? Where?
How hard of an install is this subbox? I don't have my SCrew yet, but I've read that I might run into issues with getting the back of the seat to connect with the back wall again. Yes/No?
Any and all other info and/or advice would be greatly appreciated.
#5
#7
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#9
MXracer... can you post some specifics on your system? what fits in the new F-150, why you choose alpine with the bostons? anywhere specifically you would go online for speakers??
I am putting a motorized video display head unit in with kicker comp 10s but have yet to decide on amps or speakers. anyone have preferences or have done installs on a 2004 F-150?
I am putting a motorized video display head unit in with kicker comp 10s but have yet to decide on amps or speakers. anyone have preferences or have done installs on a 2004 F-150?
#11
sorry its taken forever to reply...ive been out of town.
Ill gladly post some pics of the truck and offer any advice.
1) i chose bostons because of the clarity, once you set your high-pass and low-pass filters all the bass comes from the subs, so the component speakers in the doors need to be as clear as possible. JLs would be my second choice.
2) I have an alpine V-power amp under the front passenger seat that powers the door speakers (components), and the V12 series amp under the drivers seat...be careful if you have a power drivers seat, make sure the amp clears the seat motor when the seat moves.
3) The box from subbox doesnt affect the rear seat height, i did take the jack out though...its in my garage now LOL
the install of the subbox is really easy, run the wires all the way back (under the carpet of course), theres no need to get into the back wall.
4) I ran the factory head unit for about a week, its decent, but the aftermarket head unit ( especially alpine ) made the sound night-and-day clearer with more room for adjustments to fit the music or the driver's taste.
5) The box from subbox isnt deep, 10" comp kickers are the best speakers that would fit. I tried JL 10w0's, mtx 6000's and alpine subs with no luck....the kickers are really good though.
4) Ill give the exact pieces i used in a post probably tomorrow, to give an idea of what channel, amps, etc.
Ill gladly post some pics of the truck and offer any advice.
1) i chose bostons because of the clarity, once you set your high-pass and low-pass filters all the bass comes from the subs, so the component speakers in the doors need to be as clear as possible. JLs would be my second choice.
2) I have an alpine V-power amp under the front passenger seat that powers the door speakers (components), and the V12 series amp under the drivers seat...be careful if you have a power drivers seat, make sure the amp clears the seat motor when the seat moves.
3) The box from subbox doesnt affect the rear seat height, i did take the jack out though...its in my garage now LOL
the install of the subbox is really easy, run the wires all the way back (under the carpet of course), theres no need to get into the back wall.
4) I ran the factory head unit for about a week, its decent, but the aftermarket head unit ( especially alpine ) made the sound night-and-day clearer with more room for adjustments to fit the music or the driver's taste.
5) The box from subbox isnt deep, 10" comp kickers are the best speakers that would fit. I tried JL 10w0's, mtx 6000's and alpine subs with no luck....the kickers are really good though.
4) Ill give the exact pieces i used in a post probably tomorrow, to give an idea of what channel, amps, etc.
#12
I am trying to do this entire thing between $2000 and $3000 (minus the head unit)... you think that is possible?
I need some specific help on wiring and powering the system because I also have several lighting applications taking up power and am worried about getting too much running off of the stock power system.
Now I am wondering if i should stick with just a cd reciever up front and maybe a 6 disc changer in back with JLs in the doors and the kicker comp 10s in the subbox. when you have a chance please post some pictures of your install... I did some of the work on my custom system in a 97 range rover but am at a loss on tackling this entire project for the new truck!
thanks for the assistance!
Ryell
I need some specific help on wiring and powering the system because I also have several lighting applications taking up power and am worried about getting too much running off of the stock power system.
Now I am wondering if i should stick with just a cd reciever up front and maybe a 6 disc changer in back with JLs in the doors and the kicker comp 10s in the subbox. when you have a chance please post some pictures of your install... I did some of the work on my custom system in a 97 range rover but am at a loss on tackling this entire project for the new truck!
thanks for the assistance!
Ryell
#13
$2000-3000 would be plenty...thats including installation and a very nice head unit. If the lights dim when your bass hits or when your volume is high, use a capacitor. It looks like a little metal bottle that stores extra power so that the battery isn't damaged. My system doesnt dim the lights, the ford's alternator is really powerful...these trucks are designed to power trailer lights...so it shouldnt be a problem with 10's.
I don't know where to mount a changer, under the seat is probably the best you can do. JL's in the doors would be awesome...what you should try to accomplish is being able to run the system really really loud without any distortion, then you know its done right and nothing is in danger of blowing out or overheating. The cleanest sound comes from separating the inputs (amps).
A powered head unit and a 5 channel amp would work fine, but thats alot of work for one amp. Two amps might cost like $100 more than the huge hard-to-hide amp and provide cleaner, more tunable sound.
Ill have some full specs and pics tomorrow!! (1-6-04)
I don't know where to mount a changer, under the seat is probably the best you can do. JL's in the doors would be awesome...what you should try to accomplish is being able to run the system really really loud without any distortion, then you know its done right and nothing is in danger of blowing out or overheating. The cleanest sound comes from separating the inputs (amps).
A powered head unit and a 5 channel amp would work fine, but thats alot of work for one amp. Two amps might cost like $100 more than the huge hard-to-hide amp and provide cleaner, more tunable sound.
Ill have some full specs and pics tomorrow!! (1-6-04)
#15
Click this link to view some pics of my truck!!!
http://www.pixagogo.com/?9198245195
to view larger pics, click any image to open the slideshow
http://www.pixagogo.com/?9198245195
to view larger pics, click any image to open the slideshow
Last edited by MXracer324; 01-06-2004 at 04:33 PM.